I just took my rear heater out and the hard lines and the heater itself look brand new. All the hoses had the stock clamps on them and I was impressed looking at the hoses. I did not by pass the PHH metal line since it was so easy to replace the little hose below. I just got lucky I guess.
PHH & metal tube replaced using re-routed silicone hose
- Thread starter darnold87
- Start date
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NorCal Cruiser
I don't post much
Bypassing the PHH and the metal tube is different from bypassing the rear heater correct? I'd like to do the PHH bypass but I want to keep my rear heater for ski trips.
They are different, but it's a good question! I have been wanting to replace the rear metal pipes with silicone if possible?
At near $10 a foot for the green hi-temp stuff from NAPA, i think i will stick to the cheaper black hose for the rear heater as it won't be used as much as the PHH will.
To see the $10./ft. gates green strip cross-section in comparison to lesser expensive heater hose cross sectioni, well, there is no comparison. Green stripe is easier to manipulate into place and holds it diameter better with fewer colapsing sections, if any sections- meaning there is no need for additional assist to keep it shape. Spend the additional money for peace of mind on such a critical area...IMO
Any updates on the kit?? About to do the PHH and may replace the whole shootin' match.
Can you do a Samco work around kit?
Cheers,
Mike
any heater hose will work. doesnt have to be fancy silicone stuff...but if you're OCD like that, then go ahead. key is to use the constant tension clamps. ive done the bypass. cuts the PHH job time in half.
now for the rear heater metal tube replacements, im going to use the heavier duty silicone stuff, since its more exposed to the elements. of course i wont route it over the cats where the OE lines run. will probably wrap it in some sort of sheath to ensure that it doesnt get damaged from heat or flying rocks.
now for the rear heater metal tube replacements, im going to use the heavier duty silicone stuff, since its more exposed to the elements. of course i wont route it over the cats where the OE lines run. will probably wrap it in some sort of sheath to ensure that it doesnt get damaged from heat or flying rocks.
i did this style changing the phh and it is a lot faster than the original set up.
Anyone have a "kit" for this bypass with constant tension clamps? I am ready to do this.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
wngrog...PM sent regarding the kit.
Napa has everything you need.
Just tell them you need the nicest silicone, green heater hose they have. And that you need some breeze constant torque hose clamps.
I think i bought 4-5 feet of the hose, and replaced the hose near the heater valve, U-shaped portion as well. I just used regular hose clamps for that section though as the breeze ones are pricey, and this section would be easier to get to for maintenance if needed. I also recommend getting the black loom to go over the green hose so it looks more factory under the hood. Just use zip ties to secure it around the hose.
I believe the hose is around 10bucks a foot.
Clamps were around 5-7 bucks each.
It takes only 5 minutes to break off the lower tube mounting tab and pull it out. Once you have it out, it is no more difficult to reuse the metal tube than to replace it with a long hose. This saves you a bunch of money in buying a long hose and it looks stock and therefore more sanitary. It is a win-win deal.
Pin Head, I have not read what you are talking about. (did not read all the threads)
Are you saying just break it loose so you can work with it easier?
Are you saying just break it loose so you can work with it easier?
Nolen....there is a metal tube that goes behind the intake manifolds that ties together the hose coming off of the heater valve going to the tube going to the PHH.
Lots of folks have s*** canned the metal tube because the two bolts holding it to the back of the manifold are a bear to get to.
While keeping the metal tube is kosher IMO if you are keeping the EGR valve. If you are de-smogging and s*** canning the EGR valve, going with a long hose from the heater valve to the PHH is not a bad idea.
Your call.
Lots of folks have s*** canned the metal tube because the two bolts holding it to the back of the manifold are a bear to get to.
While keeping the metal tube is kosher IMO if you are keeping the EGR valve. If you are de-smogging and s*** canning the EGR valve, going with a long hose from the heater valve to the PHH is not a bad idea.
Your call.
I am not de-smogging. I want to keep it stock as possible.
So, you can get to the top bolt on the metal tube and then you just wiggle the tube back/forth and kill the tab on the bottom of the tube?
So, you can get to the top bolt on the metal tube and then you just wiggle the tube back/forth and kill the tab on the bottom of the tube?
Something like that. The metal tube between the heater valve and the PHH is held on by two bolts are contortionist to get to because they are right against the firewall.
Nolen,
Yes, it is that easy. Remove the top tube bolt and top hose. Cut the bottom hose in two. Then wiggle the top of the tube back and forth until the lower tab breaks off. It takes about 5 minutes and you can drink a beer while you are doing it. Once it breaks off, pull it out from the top. Install 60 mm of new hose on the tube at your bench,then remove the other half of the PHH at the block and then reinstall the tube. Tighten up the clamps and bolt and you are done. It looks stock, except the lower tab is gone. You don't need it because the lower hose and the upper tab are plenty.
