Thanks VanGo!!
PHH & metal tube replaced using re-routed silicone hose
- Thread starter darnold87
- Start date
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this is just great advice, I am going to try and remember this for sure......
Just wanted to thank everyone on this thread. I did this couple weeks ago and it was a success. I wanted to share my experience for anyone who's looking at this thread and of course wanted to share my photos ;p
Couple of Comments:
1. I can get to the PHH by turning the wheel all the way to the right. Thanks to mattafact.
2. The BIGGEST issue for me was "the bottom bolt" on the metal tube. I can't get my tool on it, so I just rocked in back and forth to break it off of the bracket.
3. I wore an eyeglass protector; bumped into parts quite a bit and watch your head
4. I ended up using 3ft and 10 inches of Gates green stripe for the bypass and sleeved it up w/ 1" regular heater hose from Napa
5. Thanks to Brett (Houston FZJ80) for the FHH and PHH kits
Here's the photo album.
Here's my troublemaker.
Here's the final result.
Couple of Comments:
1. I can get to the PHH by turning the wheel all the way to the right. Thanks to mattafact.
2. The BIGGEST issue for me was "the bottom bolt" on the metal tube. I can't get my tool on it, so I just rocked in back and forth to break it off of the bracket.
3. I wore an eyeglass protector; bumped into parts quite a bit and watch your head
4. I ended up using 3ft and 10 inches of Gates green stripe for the bypass and sleeved it up w/ 1" regular heater hose from Napa
5. Thanks to Brett (Houston FZJ80) for the FHH and PHH kits
Here's the photo album.
Here's my troublemaker.
Here's the final result.
Last edited:
People have been ordering the kits from me through PMs... finally got them up on the site... sorry for the delay. You may have to re-fresh the home page to see it.
The 4.5 ft of Green Stripe is obviously a lot heavier than the small kits, hence the extra shipping.
The 4.5 ft of Green Stripe is obviously a lot heavier than the small kits, hence the extra shipping.
Awesome writeup. I did this while doing the HG. Thanks and keep the info coming!!
Ordered mine today. I previously ordered the "small" kit but I'm gonna get the bypass in addition. I figure I can use the extra constant torque clamps on another hose. 
I did the PHH recently and had a fear from all the comments posted, but found it wasn’t that hard after all (thanks to all the comments and posts). I came very close to having a local shop do the work, but glad I decide to go for it myself.
1. I removed the top bolt and left the lower bolt alone.
2. I cut the crimped hose clamp with dikes and used needle-nose pliers to slide the other clamp off. No special tools.
3. I grabbed the PHH with channel locks and rotated a few times to break it free and then just pulled it off by hand. I rotated the hard tube to remove the PHH in one piece. This bends the hard tube at the mid-bolt mount but keeps it attached, no need to break it off.
4. Installed the new hose and clamps. Done in less than 30 minutes.
5. Drink a #6.
My PHH was in excellent condition. It is in my spare parts bag. I don’t see the need to remove the hard tube and think it is actually easier to just keep it in place. Hope to get another 200k out of the replacement.
A few picts:
1. I removed the top bolt and left the lower bolt alone.
2. I cut the crimped hose clamp with dikes and used needle-nose pliers to slide the other clamp off. No special tools.
3. I grabbed the PHH with channel locks and rotated a few times to break it free and then just pulled it off by hand. I rotated the hard tube to remove the PHH in one piece. This bends the hard tube at the mid-bolt mount but keeps it attached, no need to break it off.
4. Installed the new hose and clamps. Done in less than 30 minutes.
5. Drink a #6.
My PHH was in excellent condition. It is in my spare parts bag. I don’t see the need to remove the hard tube and think it is actually easier to just keep it in place. Hope to get another 200k out of the replacement.
A few picts:
At least one person mentioned draining the coolant prior to starting this job.
Is that really necessary?
I had planned on replacing all my coolant with Toyota red, but not until I purchase the full replacement coolant hose kit from Will at ACC. I'm going to be doing the PHH prior to all the other hoses, all of which appear to be in fine shape at the moment.
-Ed
Is that really necessary?
I had planned on replacing all my coolant with Toyota red, but not until I purchase the full replacement coolant hose kit from Will at ACC. I'm going to be doing the PHH prior to all the other hoses, all of which appear to be in fine shape at the moment.
-Ed
About to start this - got my PHH bypass kit a couple days ago.
Do I need to drain the coolant first? Or just let some drip out when doing the PHH change? I'm voting for the latter.
- Ed
Do I need to drain the coolant first? Or just let some drip out when doing the PHH change? I'm voting for the latter.
- Ed
I Just ordered the kit myself from HoustonFZJ80, havent installed yet, but he told me that we need to drain the coolant prior to install.
Im going to do a full flush at home when i replace it.
Does anyone know if I need to burp the coolant system anywhere to get air out, or will it filter any air bubbles out at the radiator cap?
Fwiw,
I usually refrain from making negative posts. It doesn't help anybody. But I just can't bite my tongue any longer. How is it that taking a 3" hose and making it a 3' hose is a good idea? I mean the factory hose is good for at least 100k I've personally seen a factory hose on 325k mile fzj. I just don't get this mod. Its really not that hard to change the phh. It's just time consuming.
I'm not bashing anybody not am I attempting to be an a****** but I just don't get how taking a 3" hose and making it a 3' hose that wraps around the engine compartment is a good idea.
Again just my .02 worth take it for nothing more than that.
I usually refrain from making negative posts. It doesn't help anybody. But I just can't bite my tongue any longer. How is it that taking a 3" hose and making it a 3' hose is a good idea? I mean the factory hose is good for at least 100k I've personally seen a factory hose on 325k mile fzj. I just don't get this mod. Its really not that hard to change the phh. It's just time consuming.
I'm not bashing anybody not am I attempting to be an a****** but I just don't get how taking a 3" hose and making it a 3' hose that wraps around the engine compartment is a good idea.
Again just my .02 worth take it for nothing more than that.
Will, i see what you are saying, but in essence you are taking a "3' hose and hardline and turning it into a 3' hose" in my opinion.
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Seems likely to me that the reason for the hardline in the first place is to "modularize" the factory engine install. With a 3' hose it would be dangling when the engine/transmission etc was first 'inserted' into the engine bay at toyota. With the hardline, everything is neat and tidy and the appropriate short hose can be installed between the hardline and heater valve after the engine/transmission has been put into place. Factory assembling a vehicle is all about modules and simple plug/play, not about routing 3' hoses over & around stuff.
Removing the hardline also gets rid of two more clamps and potential leak points.
Anyhow, folk will prefer and use one of the two schemes and having options in life is always good....
cheers,
george.
Removing the hardline also gets rid of two more clamps and potential leak points.
Anyhow, folk will prefer and use one of the two schemes and having options in life is always good....
cheers,
george.
I just did the bypass on my 450. I chose to go this route to eliminate the 2 extra joints and leak points. I kept the steel tube incase I am ever feeling masochistic and want to put it back in. The extra length is a non issue other than needing to top up your coolant a bit...
also, remember that you are taking 4 failure points in those hose clamps and making them into 2, so there arguments to be made. For me, I agree with you. I plan to replace the PHH with the stock tube.
FWIW, many "mods" on this board, especially in the 80 series section are overthought and overdiscussed IMHO, but whatever.....
Noah
FWIW, I did not drain the system, although about a quart did come out when I removed the old crusty PHH tube. I of course replenished the lost coolant. Took me approx 2 hours and that included replacing the 2 small coolant hoses along the firewall. Not terrible.
I removed the trans dipstick tube for more room. That helped tremendously and it was only 2 little bolts.
I removed the trans dipstick tube for more room. That helped tremendously and it was only 2 little bolts.
FYI, when i rebuilt my motor, i was planning on swapping out the hard line for one long hose. When the motor was sitting there on the stand, i went back and forth in my head, but in the end and because it was right there in front of me and really easy, i went with the stock hard line with a silicon PHH. Put the motor in and because of something else, i had to take the upper intake off. At that time, i realized just how much of a PITA that hard line is just to unbolt. Now i wish i had swapped the whole thing out for one hose.
i just did mine this past weekend only to discover that someone had replaced this hose before. whoever did the job failed though and the hose was leaking at both joints. In the process they hacked off both of the mounting tabs on the stock steel tube. I replaced the whole thing from the block to the heater valve with a single piece of HD hose and some constant torque clamps. took me about an hour or so. i need to go back and replace the rest of the hoses for the heater since they are seeping a little as well.