PHH & metal tube replaced using re-routed silicone hose

[OGBeno]

The hose going from the valve to the PHH still looks stock, IMO.

And besides, trying to drink a beer while you are wiggling a metal tab, in the wheel well, with the tire off, the rig jacked up, sounds totally unappealing.

 

[Pin_Head]

And besides, trying to drink a beer while you are wiggling a metal tab, in the wheel well, with the tire off, the rig jacked up, sounds totally unappealing.

You have to get the concept right: You wiggle the top of the tube while standing and leaning on the fender, so drinking a beer is totally acceptable as long as you don't spill it.

I can walk and chew gum too.

 

[OGBeno]

You have to get the concept right: You wiggle the top of the tube while standing and leaning on the fender, so drinking a beer is totally acceptable as long as you don't spill it.

I can walk and chew gum too.

I know. I was joking. Hence the

 

[greentruck]

After doing mine, most of the drama is getting in there and getting the PHH busted loose. I actually found that wiggling/rotating things worked for me and kept the tube. Didn't bother with trying to get the bolt tight again on the tab, just left it loose -- in case I need to do it again in 150,000 miles

 

[Trapper50cal]

I didn't take the long route but gave it extra hose and it doesn't seem crimped at all...

By trapper50cal at 2011-03-20

By trapper50cal at 2011-03-20

...and did these, as well as the super short ones between the valve cover/firewall as well...

By trapper50cal at 2011-03-20

 

[enterconnect]

What size constant-torque hose clamps do did you use?

I finally got around to doing the PHH... 180K miles on the clock.
Bought the kit from index but decided to replace the metal bypass tube as well with a full length silicone hose. Followed some others' advice and wrapped it around the brake booster.
This turned out to be an easy job.
Here are my tips:

1. Drain all coolant from the radiator.
2. Loosen & remover upper portion of hose at the heater control valve.
3. Remove upper coolant metal tube bolt on intake.
4. My lower bolt was already out (very odd), not sure why this was the case? Most people end up wiggling the metal hose to break this lower mount.
5. Jack up front drivers side corner of cruiser and support with stands, etc.
6. Remove front drivers side tire.
7. Remove inner fender flappy splash gaurds.
8. Use sharp razorblade, knife, etc to cut though the PHH. You can now remove the metal tube.
8. Use long needle-nose pliers to pull off remaining PHH piece on the engine block. I got a 12-inch 45 degree needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight for like $5 and they were well worth it!!
9. Now you're ready to install the new hose. I used ~3.5ft (4ft max) of 700F degree silicone hose from Napa. It's like $12 per foot. It's actually silicone inner compound and rubber outer compound. Apparently it's often used on turbo applications? Anyway, it was a breeze to install.

So, this project can fairly easily be done without pulling the starter or the tranny dipstick tube.
Anyway, I used the constant-torque hose clamps from the PHH kit I had previously purchased. I also went ahead and replaced the two small hose pieces near the heater control valve. I used standard goodyear heater hose for them.

Here are a few ****py cell phone pics:

 

[enterconnect]

Will replacing the metal tube effect the EGR? Will it trip any codes.

Nolen....there is a metal tube that goes behind the intake manifolds that ties together the hose coming off of the heater valve going to the tube going to the PHH.

Lots of folks have **** canned the metal tube because the two bolts holding it to the back of the manifold are a bear to get to.

While keeping the metal tube is kosher IMO if you are keeping the EGR valve. If you are de-smogging and **** canning the EGR valve, going with a long hose from the heater valve to the PHH is not a bad idea.

Your call.

 

[94SRUNNER]

The metal tube that they are refering to in the above posts has to do with the coolant system. There for it will not have any effect on the EGR system. I removed this metal tube and have yet to see any unwanted results.

 

[enterconnect]

The metal tube that they are refering to in the above posts has to do with the coolant system and heater core. There for it will not have any effect on the EGR system. I removed this metal tube and have yet to see any unwanted results.

Thanks..

 

[kidglove13]

Removed mine last year actually broke the pipe out of there.
Ran regular heater hose worked like a charm.
Much better this way.
What an EGR?

 

[Tacoma4life]

I took the shorter route like Trapper50cal and have had zero issues. I used Gates green stripe and put 1"ID hose around it anywhere it may have rubbed.

 

[wngrog]

What does re-routing this hose around the metal tube have to do with de-smogging anyway?

 

[OGBeno]

What does re-routing this hose around the metal tube have to do with de-smogging anyway?

Heat of EGR valve and the engine in general in that area.

 

[Tacoma4life]

What does re-routing this hose around the metal tube have to do with de-smogging anyway?

Nothing, I just think people are just getting the 2 metal tubes confused, the first being the ERG pipe and the second the coolant pipe. Many people remove the coolant pipe and put heater hose in it's place, this is called the PHH bypass. Many people also remove the EGR metal pipe, this is termed a de-smog which will throw a CEL (check engine light), however there is a write up for fooling the ECU with a resistor that will keep the light off.

 

[Tapage]

This hole PHH " issue " deserve a how to video ..

Would be the best video ever in youtube ..

 

[mickeyt]

How do I get those decals?

 

[94SRUNNER]

mickeyt....decals?

 

[mattafact]

I went to Mexico and had mine changed for $20.

 

[enterconnect]

Any info about the size of the constant-torque hose clamps?

 

[VanGo]

How do I get those decals?

PM sent.

Any info about the size of the constant-torque hose clamps?

Breeze Model CT-9410 for 5/8" heater hose measure 9/16" X 1-1/16" or 14-27mm