Builds Peter's Ultimate Expo Land Cruiser Build Thread

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Some big progress...

Spent a lot of time with the tape measure and square measuring things. Spent a lot of time learning sheet metal features in Solid Works. Got some lessons on what can and cannot actually be built, the difference between a bend deduction and a bend allowance, and how to read V-die charts. Sent some part files to Awlteq for fabrication. Some lasers and CNC press braking later, and voila...

Frame Brackets for Engine.

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One of the two Transmission Cross Members

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And with the help of Shaker and Awlteq, last night, the engine/tranny/transfer was finally attached to the frame. It was a tricky affair, since the yet unsupported frame bowed out and had to be reinforced, and i missed the measurements by 7mm that had to be corrected with the die grinder, but it all came together, and I now have a driveline attached to the frame. Everything seems to fit the way I was hoping.

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Next up is to design the brackets to hold the Body mounts onto the frame, to fit the body around the driveline. Not shown in this mock-up is the dimple die applied to the speed holes.

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I am using the fluid filed rear body mounts from the 2010+ Ram trucks. Having driven the pre/post 2010 Rams, I am sold on the effectiveness of these fluid filled mounts at reducing harshness.
 
Yup, that's a Shaved, Trussed, Pinion guarded, Factory Disk Braked, AAM 14 Bolt axle.

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Yup, that's a Shaved, Trussed, Pinion guarded, Factory Disk Braked, AAM 14 Bolt axle.

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Somewhere a chiropractor just put a down payment on a new Mercedes

Did you discuss somewhere why you put the calipers on the front? Don't they normally go on the back? It looks like the parking brake cables are set up for rear-of-disc mounting.
 
Somewhere a chiropractor just put a down payment on a new Mercedes

I've bent every axle I've ever put under a Land Cruiser. Not this time...

Did you discuss somewhere why you put the calipers on the front? Don't they normally go on the back? It looks like the parking brake cables are set up for rear-of-disc mounting.

I set them up the same as the factory rear disk brakes found on the AAM 14 Bolt under the 2001-2011 GM/Chev 2500HD trucks. The factory set-up also includes a 'shield' to protect the caliper from stones. I will add those during final assembly.

The parking brake cables loop over top of the axle and come in from behind. They use one common caliper bracket/backing plate, so on one side, the p-brake cable is on the top, on the other side, the bottom.

My thought is to copy as much of the factory design as possible for simplicity. I can probably use factory parking brake cables, the calipers will be on their 'proper' side, the caliper mounts will have the arrow next to the word 'Front' actually pointing towards the front of the truck, and such little things.
 
IFS - IRS..... with 14 bolts!

But I'll let Peter explain as only he can.
 
Hello Again!
It's been a while since an update, but it doesn't mean I haven't been busy!

Last we spoke, I was getting body mounts lasered. Well that is done, they are mounted, and the body now sits in it's final position relative to the frame and driveline.

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Had to Mount some tires.... these are my 12.5R20 Michelins from Ziplock, being mounted on Trail Ready DOT military double beadlocks. Shiny. The Beadlock ring bolts on to hold the outer ring on. There is a plastic tube inside the tire to hold the back bead against the back side of the rim. These are not advertised on Trail Ready's website, but they are available.
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Then, I rolled the tires in to establish the front axle position. With no lower fenders, I have 100mm of up travel before interference with the upper fender. Nice and low. Perfect.
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With front axle positioning established, I start to squeeze the axles in place to check out clearances. There's not enough clearance.
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The body mounts look great!

Are the body mounts junk yard or new ram parts? Never seen or heard of liquid filled mounts before. Bad ass
 
This is where the story took a turn in February.

The combination of the tall cummins engine, the long engine that must be over the axle, the big tires, and my desire for a low riding truck, is not compatible. A few options were considered.

Move the axle forward, in front of the engine. It looks weird. No go.
Lift the truck higher. This is what everyone else does. This is why 'stock' dodges with itty bitty tires are so tall... the engines are balanced way above those front diffs. It's just tall. But, I want something shorter.
Option 3.... Independent suspension. Diff is fixed, can be as tight as possible to the engine. Some up sides: better ride for the expo truck, and I've always wanted to build an IFS. Some down sides: I've already ruled out IFS for it's increased complexity, build time, and potential reliability problems. IFS is a problem that's been solved already, and is gaining popularity thanks to desert and KOH Ultra 4 racing. There's tons of home-built tech available on line... That's it, I am in. IFS it is.

But first, I gotta tool up. Bought a little Mill/Lathe combo unit.

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... And I gotta Learn me up some IFS basics...
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