I promise I'm not trying to beat a dead horse. But I'm confused. You say the newer one doesn't have a drop out pinion? Everything on this axle is identical to the one with all the cooling ribs in your pic. I'm just trying to clear up my confusion. I hope I'm not derailing.
I promise I'm not trying to beat a dead horse. But I'm confused. You say the newer one doesn't have a drop out pinion? Everything on this axle is identical to the one with all the cooling ribs in your pic. I'm just trying to clear up my confusion. I hope I'm not derailing.
That is definitely a "Corporate 14 Bolt" axle with rear disk brakes! You say that is in a 2005 Duramax? This is very interesting... and something maybe I wish I new about 3 weeks ago!
For this pick up situation it can't be the duramax. It's on the the 2500hd with the 6.0 Vortec. This one in the picture is on my buddy's truck who was stopping by to grab a part for his 40. The axle I grabbed off a wrecked truck is under snow since I haven't done anything with it yet.
Some pictures of what makes the 14 Bolt great... the drop out pinion and the pinion support bearing. Notice the 'nose' out front of the pinion that the bearing rides on, and the pinion support bearing inside the differential housing.
You will notice that the 14 Bolt is not a 'Drop Out' differential, meaning that you cannot remove the assembled ring and pinion gears from the axle housing. The gears must be set-up and instlalled directing in the housing.
Also, notice the U-joint retention strap on the pinion yolk. Garbage. There are better aftermarket yolks, but I sure like the fully captured U-joints with the drive flanges in our Land Cruisers better.
Axles are ready for sand blasting... all the old tabs cut off with the plasma cutter, then ground down. Then the essentials replaced (hubs, covers, etc, but no internal gear) so the whole axle can be blasted.
I went to the wrecking yard to see if I can spot one of these disk-braked 14 Bolts. No luck. All the >Y2K GM's that I saw have AAM axles. Finding one of these has become a personal mission for me now... Mind you, I am still going to use the axles I now have and convert those to disks.
So I started the design of the 14 Bolt Rear Disk Brake Bracket.
I started by pushing out the 4 studs in the bracket assembly, rempving the parking brake cable and lever, and popping off the backing plate. The backing plate is compression fit to the caliper bracket through the center axle tube hole. I coaxed it off with a hammer and punch.
Then it was some quality time with the caliper and the bracket, and solidworks. Many print-outs, and some trial and error to fine tune the pattern. It looks really close.
[Dumb question... what's the best way to rotate my camera-phone pictures on Mud? They view fine on my phone/PC, but are off by 90 degrees when I load them to Mud. Frustrating.]
I went to the wrecking yard to see if I can spot one of these disk-braked 14 Bolts. No luck. All the >Y2K GM's that I saw have AAM axles. Finding one of these has become a personal mission for me now... Mind you, I am still going to use the axles I now have and convert those to disks.
It is absolutely full float. I was thinking of putting it under the rear of a 75 series pickup but I don't have a Dana 60 front to match or the fundage to build a 14 bolt front. So now I think I'll modify accordingly to go under the rear of the 55 I think. For now it waits for me to be ready for it.
I have the same issue with posting pics from my iPhone. Very very frustrating! I have noticed that as long as I hold my phone sideways in the correct direction it works.
Jake
I will need better covers for the 14 Bolts. There are lots of options out there, but I know a guy who builds neat stuff, so I thought I was spend a bit of time on Solidworks and build something different. Most covers have 3 main faces around the ring gear. This one has 7. I am not sure it will work with the TMR 14 bolt shave kit. I guess I can try it out and see.
That's a lot of welding but it can be done. I could also do the two side bits as a half cone either rolled or bump brake it. It is only a cover but what thickness did you draw it in? We can make the shave kit too but may be upside down on the time vs money ratio.
That's a lot of welding but it can be done. I could also do the two side bits as a half cone either rolled or bump brake it. It is only a cover but what thickness did you draw it in? We can make the shave kit too but may be upside down on the time vs money ratio.
I modeled in with 0.125". Many are made with 0.375, but that is for competition rock racing. I've never dented a cover, so don't think I need that much steel for my overland expo truck.
I don't mind the welding. That's something I can do on my own time.
For the price of that shave kit, I''ll definately be buying that rather than trying to make one.
I don't have a 3D printer. Maybe time I get one. A sand blast cabinet seems more pressing. It sure would have been nice to be working on a blasted caliper bracket rather than the dirty and rusty one I had to have on my desk to measure it.
What is your plan with the roof of the cab? I have a similar situation but back quite a few years I picked up some chopped tops from ENS. not sure if you want to chop the top or just straiten, but mine was pretty rusted and dented on the top corner. you might want to look into a trip to Saskatoon to visit Brad
Cheers,
Deny
