Pesky Heater Hose (PHH) and that Pesky Bottom Bolt (PBB) (1 Viewer)

[landcruiser3DP]

IIRC removing the entire intake plenum is the factory method to replace the PHH?? Agree, if you have the energy it's a good time to do all the PM in that area including putting at least the upper intake plenum into a parts washer. IME you can spend way too much time cleaning the upper intake while reaching in and bent over 90 degrees at the waist.

i haven't been able to get the right hose size so i am only in here to try to keep it from leaking so much to get from here to there.
i'm going to have to patch it or something with hose clamps.
can i get at these coolant hoses with just throttle body? if not is it just bolts coming off for the air intake or what please?

 

[CharlieS]

If you are accessing the pesky heater hose, the best access is through the driver side wheel well with the wheel removed. But, unless you have a very skinny arm you will be challenged to do much in the space. I wouldn't want to try to patch that hose myself... There are metal lines, a dipstick and the starter in the way. That's what makes this a "pesky" job for many. Replacing the hose itself is fairly trivial, other then the access issues. If the hose at the top of the phh hard line is leaking, it is pretty accessible.

Lots of people bypass the phh and hard line with a length of commonly available heater hose (5/8" maybe - do a search) either temporarily or permanently.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

If you are accessing the pesky heater hose, the best access is through the driver side wheel well with the wheel removed. But, unless you have a very skinny arm you will be challenged to do much in the space. I wouldn't want to try to patch that hose myself... There are metal lines, a dipstick and the starter in the way. That's what makes this a "pesky" job for many. Replacing the hose itself is fairly trivial, other then the access issues. If the hose at the top of the phh hard line is leaking, it is pretty accessible.

Lots of people bypass the phh and hard line with a length of commonly available heater hose (5/8" maybe - do a search) either temporarily or permanently.

thanks...

 

[ZackR]

In my experience pulling the upper intake made everything a lot easier. I was able to replace the PHH (bypass style) the throttle body coolant hoses and all of the vacuum lines. It's also a good opportunity to replace the fuel filter.

 

[Buttons]

Novice question but is this hose the same for a 97 lx 450?

 

[robnicko]

Novice question but is this hose the same for a 97 lx 450?

yes if a 1fz-fe engine

 

[Buttons]

yes if a 1fz-fe engine

I ask since there seems to be 2 options if there is a rear heater (like in the 97 lcx 450 ) or a different hose package if the rear heater isn't an option

 

[CharlieS]

I ask since there seems to be 2 options if there is a rear heater (like in the 97 lcx 450 ) or a different hose package if the rear heater isn't an option

There are some different hoses up top if there isn't a second row heater, but the "PHH" and hard line are the same in both setups.

 

[Squash]

FYI
Considering the pia factor please consider how the HZ and Hdt's are plumbed.
The diesels run a hose!
Now for anyone considering adding a convention type coolant heater this makes installation a simple task.
As with any install, use good hose, good clamps and if you are paranoid, you can add a wee bit of insulation.
I no longer have any gassers, but have done this to two previous FZJ80 's.

 

[jawbone]

Last night I removed the PHH and hard pipe sub-assembly (waiting on parts from phhkit.com and Toyota to re-install). As many on these forums have said, it's a heck of a job. When the hose finally came off of the pipe on the block, I triumphantly walked into the house covered in sweat and grime, holding the hard pipe with the PHH attached and asked my wife if she had ever been more proud of me (to which she replied, "I'm not sure how to interpret that question honey..."). I needed to share my victory with someone who understood, so I figured I'd post here.

Mud has been so helpful to me across two (ongoing) Cruiser projects that I thought I'd share my two cents for the others out there with long, skinny arms. (I'm ~6 with a wider wingspan than my height). I've only done this once, but can absolutely see how larger arms and hands would make it extremely difficult, if not impossible, to get at the lower rear bolt from the driver side wheel well.

(Also, if you have preventative maintenance to do, just follow post #12 in this thread to make the job way easier. I had already done a lot of that preventative maintenance before, and this was part of a larger coolant system project, so I didn't want to remove the valve cover, etc.)

I'm not a fan of breaking things, so I wanted to give it a shot without using the "wiggle the pipe and break the tab" method. I was able to use the following steps to remove the lower rear bolt from underneath through the wheel well, without having to do any major disassembly:

• Remove skirts from the driver-side wheel well (after removing the wheel, obviously)
• Remove bolts holding transmission dipstick so that it is not obstructing reach
  • I also moved a few bits of the wiring harness that are in the way
• Use a short 1/4 in ratchet and place it on the rear lower bolt head by feel
  • The ratchet I used was less than 6" long, which meant it had enough clearance to fully attach to the bolt and rotate
• Try 27 different ways to push on the ratchet until the bolt breaks loose
  • This took a lot of trial and error, and I tried using both my left and right arms. I ended up finding a position using my right arm that had some good purchase, bracing myself against the ground with my other arm (my truck was on jack stands and I was sitting on the ground to work on it), and giving it all I had.
  • In hindsight, I should have sprayed the bolt with penetrating oil from the top and let it sit overnight, but mine ended up breaking loose after some pushing. If I did it again. I would also wear long sleeves because my arm is pretty scratched up.

This was a pretty quick process for me for doing it the first time - I had everything off in 1-1.5 hours and I was taking it very slow and doing a lot of investigating with a flash light. Hopefully this helps someone with long skinny arms avoid more disassembly than necessary if you just want to change the PHH.

+1 to additional advice from this thread and others:

• Moving the transmission dipstick is an absolute must
• I would definitely move the knock sensor - way too easy to break and you'll be laying all over the engine bay
• Removing the harness and hoses at the top of the firewall is a big help, both for visibility/investigation, but also when working with the pipe from the top

Also, there's already a lot of information on actually removing the PHH itself, but here's my experience FWIW:

• I was able to get adjustable channel locks onto the block-side clamp, loosen it, and pull it as far forward as possible. These channel locks have more of a pointy nose, so they fit the bill for getting into that tight space.
• I used the same channel locks to bend the clamp on the pipe side to give myself more room to pull the block-side clamp out away from the block
• When the block-side clamp was as far forward as I was going to get it, I spent several minutes repeatedly pulling and twisting the pipe from the wheel well, and the hose slid off
• I removed the entire pipe, with the hose attached, from the bottom (though it would be just as easy, or maybe easier, to remove it from the top)

 

[Buttons]

Last night I removed the PHH and hard pipe sub-assembly (waiting on parts from phhkit.com and Toyota to re-install). As many on these forums have said, it's a heck of a job. When the hose finally came off of the pipe on the block, I triumphantly walked into the house covered in sweat and grime, holding the hard pipe with the PHH attached and asked my wife if she had ever been more proud of me (to which she replied, "I'm not sure how to interpret that question honey..."). I needed to share my victory with someone who understood, so I figured I'd post here.

Mud has been so helpful to me across two (ongoing) Cruiser projects that I thought I'd share my two cents for the others out there with long, skinny arms. (I'm ~6 with a wider wingspan than my height). I've only done this once, but can absolutely see how larger arms and hands would make it extremely difficult, if not impossible, to get at the lower rear bolt from the driver side wheel well.

(Also, if you have preventative maintenance to do, just follow post #12 in this thread to make the job way easier. I had already done a lot of that preventative maintenance before, and this was part of a larger coolant system project, so I didn't want to remove the valve cover, etc.)

I'm not a fan of breaking things, so I wanted to give it a shot without using the "wiggle the pipe and break the tab" method. I was able to use the following steps to remove the lower rear bolt from underneath through the wheel well, without having to do any major disassembly:

• Remove skirts from the driver-side wheel well (after removing the wheel, obviously)
• Remove bolts holding transmission dipstick so that it is not obstructing reach
  • I also moved a few bits of the wiring harness that are in the way
• Use a short 1/4 in ratchet and place it on the rear lower bolt head by feel
  • The ratchet I used was less than 6" long, which meant it had enough clearance to fully attach to the bolt and rotate
• Try 27 different ways to push on the ratchet until the bolt breaks loose
  • This took a lot of trial and error, and I tried using both my left and right arms. I ended up finding a position using my right arm that had some good purchase, bracing myself against the ground with my other arm (my truck was on jack stands and I was sitting on the ground to work on it), and giving it all I had.
  • In hindsight, I should have sprayed the bolt with penetrating oil from the top and let it sit overnight, but mine ended up breaking loose after some pushing. If I did it again. I would also wear long sleeves because my arm is pretty scratched up.

This was a pretty quick process for me for doing it the first time - I had everything off in 1-1.5 hours and I was taking it very slow and doing a lot of investigating with a flash light. Hopefully this helps someone with long skinny arms avoid more disassembly than necessary if you just want to change the PHH.

+1 to additional advice from this thread and others:

• Moving the transmission dipstick is an absolute must
• I would definitely move the knock sensor - way too easy to break and you'll be laying all over the engine bay
• Removing the harness and hoses at the top of the firewall is a big help, both for visibility/investigation, but also when working with the pipe from the top

Also, there's already a lot of information on actually removing the PHH itself, but here's my experience FWIW:

• I was able to get adjustable channel locks onto the block-side clamp, loosen it, and pull it as far forward as possible. These channel locks have more of a pointy nose, so they fit the bill for getting into that tight space.
• I used the same channel locks to bend the clamp on the pipe side to give myself more room to pull the block-side clamp out away from the block
• When the block-side clamp was as far forward as I was going to get it, I spent several minutes repeatedly pulling and twisting the pipe from the wheel well, and the hose slid off
• I removed the entire pipe, with the hose attached, from the bottom (though it would be just as easy, or maybe easier, to remove it from the top)

Awesome work! I ran around with mine still in the pliers and Immediately showed my wife too!

 

[SteveH]

I have looked at every photo on Mud and the web. To be specific - the PHH comes horizontally out of the block, just below the head at the back, driver's side, correct?

There are other tired vertical hoses in the area that likely also need to be replaced, but I don' t want to miss this one, of course.

Thanks - Steve

 

[Kernal]

Correct.

If the transmission dipstick is in the way disconnect the top half and push it out of the way. Remove the rubber curtains in the wheel well (replace when done)
Not required but removing the starter gives even more room to work in that area (good time to rebuild/replace starter contacts and plunger)

Use a quality 5/8" heater hose for the PHH, Gates Green Stripe is a good choice (better than anything that says "Premium")

While you're in there consider doing a few other preventive maintenance items at the same time.

Repeating myself from earlier in the thread but FWIW, below is one way to go about it to save from having to dig back into things for awhile:

Remove heat control valve (replace on reassembly)
Remove Throttle Body (opportunity to clean out all the ports)
Remove Valve cover (give you more room to work, then clean valve cover oil baffle internally, replace valve cover gasket and tube seals on reassembly)
Replace all heater and bypass hoses (including the PHH)
Wrap the engine harness with heat protective sleeve where it's runs close to the EGR pipe (be gentle when moving the harness)
Clean the EGR valve while you're there (or block it off as some people do if you don't have annual inspections)

If you really want to get into it, remove the upper intake to clean it completely then replace all the vacuum hoses/components on the underside
Good time also to then replace the fuel filter

It's a slippery slope

 

[jawbone]

Awesome work! I ran around with mine still in the pliers and Immediately showed my wife too!

Haha, it’s truly the most gratifying thing I’ve experienced in some time.

 

[jawbone]

I have looked at every photo on Mud and the web. To be specific - the PHH comes horizontally out of the block, just below the head at the back, driver's side, correct?

There are other tired vertical hoses in the area that likely also need to be replaced, but I don' t want to miss this one, of course.

Thanks - Steve

I was in the driveway so it eas easy to grab a picture of mine.

 

[jawbone]

Also, a PHH gift just arrived in the mail:

 

[Irish Reiver]

That

Also, a PHH gift just arrived in the mail:

View attachment 3696899

That will be the gift of having to do it again fairly soon. The silicon hoses are known to let go sooner or later. I used the same thing on my first PHH foray but had to do it all again about 5 years later. Second time round I just went with Mr. T hoses.

 

[Kernal]

I've mentioned this before, but FWIW I compared side-by-side the hose that comes on a new OEM PHH pipe/hose assembly to the GATES Green Stripe, and the Green Stripe hose had thicker layers. And then comparing the OEM hose that came on the assembly to other OEM heater hoses and the PHH hose felt even a bit wimpier (more easily squished). So wondering if the vendor who makes the OEM hose/pipe assembly is using a different hose than the manufacturer of the other OEM water heater hoses?? IDK

FWIW 15+ years ago one 80 got the Gates Green Stripe with Breeze constant torque clamps, no leaks since. On another 80 I used Green Stripe with GATES Power Grip SB clamps (heat shrinkable bands), no issues there either.

Tip: There are a few advantages to the GATES Power Grip clamps/bands: they squeeze down on the hose and pipe equally 360' around the OD eliminating cold leaks and they never need re-tightening. Also, IME, the two thick thermoplastic clamp/bands (3/4" wide each) almost completely cover the short section of hose for the PHH so it's now pretty much indestructible IMO. Main disadvantage to the Power Grip clamps/bands is getting heat to them in tight spaces; it can be done with a bendable pipe/nozzle attached to a full size heat gun, or by using one of those small flame-type heat guns with the diffuser.

Green Stripe™ Heater Hose | Gates Corporation

Your vehicle relies on the performance of your engine. Your engine relies on the performance of your coolant hose. When you need to replace or configure critical pieces of your complex machinery, trust Gates to deliver high capacity, high performance solutions with our customized coolant hoses...

www.gates.com

 

[jawbone]

That
That will be the gift of having to do it again fairly soon. The silicon hoses are known to let go sooner or later. I used the same thing on my first PHH foray but had to do it all again about 5 years later. Second time round I just went with Mr. T hoses.

Oh wow - good to know. Maybe I’ll look at other hose options and keep the clamps.

 

[jawbone]

Gentleman, the new OEM hard pipe and PHH are in. The bolt on the back was way easier to get back in than I expected - probably took about 15 minutes or less.

One of the best outcomes of this experience is that I now know exactly what test of skill, endurance, and will power will have to be passed by anyone who asks for one of my daughters hands in marriage.