Don't stress it honestly one of the easier jobs i've done on it. Yes it would suck on the side of the road when the engine is hot but in the garage no sweat
Pesky Heater Hose (PHH) and that Pesky Bottom Bolt (PBB)
- Thread starter Kernal
- Start date
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I did mine from the top, mostly.
I cut the PHH, and dealt with the piece on the engine separately.
My 80 is RHD, so no brake booster etc in the way.
A flat ratcheting wrench is essential. A flexible one would probably help. The one pictured above with the protruding collar may just be too thick.
If you remove the top half of the manifold, the PHH bolt on the lower manifold would be a lot easier to get to.
I used new Toyota spring clamps for the lower hose, so once the hose was in place, you just position the clamp, pull the retainer clip off, and they are set
I cut the PHH, and dealt with the piece on the engine separately.
My 80 is RHD, so no brake booster etc in the way.
A flat ratcheting wrench is essential. A flexible one would probably help. The one pictured above with the protruding collar may just be too thick.
If you remove the top half of the manifold, the PHH bolt on the lower manifold would be a lot easier to get to.
I used new Toyota spring clamps for the lower hose, so once the hose was in place, you just position the clamp, pull the retainer clip off, and they are set
CrabCake
SILVER Star
Agreed...I was not looking forward to this last weekend...in the end, it took me longer to find my hose in my travel bag, pull the front wheel, and heat cycle the truck to top off the coolant than to change the hose. I did mine through the wheel well with no unexpected issues.
If you're in a colder climate delete the phh and run a hose up to the firewall like the HZJ and HDJ's.
This gives one the luxury of adding and convection block heater at your convenience, way better than a block heater.
This gives one the luxury of adding and convection block heater at your convenience, way better than a block heater.
Agreed. The key is patience. If you get frustrated, take a break. It's almost surely going to take multiple tries on removal and reinstallation no matter what (even with specialized tools), so just plan on taking your time.
Thanks for this @Kernal
It’s not stupid if it works! Great tip!
Hey everybody, I need some advise. I need to replace my PHH. After too many hours of frustration and contortions I was able to remove the bottom bolt of the tubing behind the engine without removing or or disconnecting anything. The hard job was to break it loose! I did it from the bottom using the small tool shown on the picture. That being said, while struggling to remove that bottom bolt, I was telling myself that it the last time I was doing this and I was going to install a bypass with soft rubber hose! But after removing the hard tubing and seing that it looks almost new, I am tempted to reinstall it and change only the small rubber hose. I fear that installing a rubber bypass from the top that goes behind the engine with all the heat generated that the hose won’t survive long. What do you guys think? Thanks in advance.
either way works tons of posts/threads on both
I didn't do the bypass and put the hard pipe back in
I didn't do the bypass and put the hard pipe back in
Thanks a lot for that rapid response. I tempted to go that way too. Cheers.
I have no regrets with the bypass, it was much easier to install and if something does happen to the hose it will be much easier to replace.
I ordered a new pipe and hose assembly only to realize that my original pipe on our 1994 was stainless steel. Like yours, it was in perfect condition. So, I painted it and transferred the new hose bit onto the old pipe. I had the valve cover and the heater value out of the way.
Two things I learned:
1) Using 87124-60070 hose clamps on the original rubber made it easy to seal up - just pull the tabs.
2) For the lower bolt, an extra long 14mm ratcheting wrench made all the difference. I used masking tape on the back to hold the bolt in place while I got started. I was literally lying on a piece of 2"x10" running front to back to get the reach right.
I now have a spare, and used Gates Green Stripe hose on it 2" section. For that the Toyota clamps do not work, some I have some Gates Power Grip heat shrink for that job. I used the heat shrink to replace the rear heater Pipes/hoses with Gates Green Stripe. No clearance for anything else.
Two things I learned:
1) Using 87124-60070 hose clamps on the original rubber made it easy to seal up - just pull the tabs.
2) For the lower bolt, an extra long 14mm ratcheting wrench made all the difference. I used masking tape on the back to hold the bolt in place while I got started. I was literally lying on a piece of 2"x10" running front to back to get the reach right.
I now have a spare, and used Gates Green Stripe hose on it 2" section. For that the Toyota clamps do not work, some I have some Gates Power Grip heat shrink for that job. I used the heat shrink to replace the rear heater Pipes/hoses with Gates Green Stripe. No clearance for anything else.
I did this by laying some padded mats I made from styrofoam and cardboard on top of the engine - I laid on my stomach like Superman and looked down the back of the engine to do this
I think I was basically following a comment you had made elsewhere in my own effort. I am pretty proud of the refresh on my father's '94 we did before taking it out to my daughter. There is a ton of wisdom from this site in nearly every part of the project.