Been discussed a lot in the past, just wanted to share some new photos what to expect for those who haven't done the Pesky Heater Hose (PHH) repair yet. This is not meant to be a step-by-step how to do it thread, just a few tips and thoughts.
(If anyone wants to skip the backstory scroll ahead to the photos):
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As many people know who've done this job, if you're going to remove the PHH pipe there is a bottom bolt that is very difficult to access which is why most people just rock the pipe back and forth (after the upper and lower hoses and the upper bolt are removed) until the tab for the bottom bolt snaps off.
Then if they reinstall the PHH pipe they just leave the bottom tab unconnected or some people just do a PHH bypass with a longer section of hose and forget about the PHH pipe. I'm not saying replacing the PHH pipe is the best way compared to the bypass, it's just one way for those who want to put it back in the original configuration.
So after a lot of trial and error and busting my knuckles and brain trying to remove the PHH water pipe assembly from above or via the left front wheel well I found that the bottom PHH pipe bolt can best be accessed by first removing the valve cover then approaching from the right side of the vehicle.
Removing the valve cover means having to remove the Throttle Body and pretty much means at least loosening the heat control valve and the engine harness from the firewall. But this is not wasted effort as the heat control valve, if original, will need replacing along with the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. Also the Throttle body and upper intake plenum can be cleaned up to some extent while they're off the engine including the port/tunnel for the EGR gases that can become totally blocked with carbon (not an issue if you're deleted your EGR system). It's also a good time to clean and paint/coat the valve cover if you're so inclined. So one job turns into six.
I am sure there are some people who were able to get to the bottom PHH pipe bolt via a different approach, this is just another way to go about it while at the same time taking care of a few other maintenance issues.
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The photos tell the story:
Typical appearance of a leaking PHH after a prior repair by PO. Approached the PHH at this point from the left front wheel well (vehicle on two jack stands, left front wheel and rubber curtains removed). I did not initially disconnect the transmission dipstick tube although others do for more room to work, but I later found it to be very helpful to remove the tube
and push it to one side. Removing the starter gives even more room to work.
I was unable to reach the PHH pipe lower bolt from below via the wheel well however a few others have said they were succesfull.
Old PHH was removed by using a hookbill knife along with a sharpened paring knife then long needle nose pliers to pull the pieces off the pipes.
Note in the photo below how the PHH pipe (water pipe sub assembly 87209-60381) and short pipe on the head are almost touching (hose has been removed):
Next photo below shows how the PHH pipe can be bent forward (both hoses and top bolt removed first) if doing a quickie repair ie: by sliding a new section of heater hose up onto the PHH pipe then rotating the pipe back inline then pulling the hose section down onto the other pipe. Some people report this is a bit difficult depending on how stiff the replacement hose is; soaking in hot water before installation may help.
For orientation, photo below was taken looking up from the left front wheel well, left is forward toward the radiator, right is toward the transmission (note starter has been removed lower right).
Double click on photo for close up view
Next photo below shows the upper PHH pipe bolt with depressed hex head (hex tools like an Allen wrench cannot be used to remove this type bolt as it's a non-standard size somewhere around 7.4mm and very shallow). It's very easy to get to this bolt using a 12mm socket, 3/8" extension, and ratchet or impact wrench.
For orientation, photo taken from right side of vehicle looking down onto
the EGR pipe. Valve cover is at the bottom, out of the frame, edge of EGR valve right top corner, PHH pipe top center.
Photo below is of the PHH pipe upper bolt tab (bolt removed) and the lower PHH pipe bolt to the left of the #6 injector: note faint original yellow paint on that bolt (for detail click photo twice to magnify). The valve cover is still in place in this photo.
Some people may be able to reach the lower bolt from this location with the valve cover in place but there's very little room to swing a wrench then add the risk of damaging the fuel injector.
(If anyone wants to skip the backstory scroll ahead to the photos):
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
As many people know who've done this job, if you're going to remove the PHH pipe there is a bottom bolt that is very difficult to access which is why most people just rock the pipe back and forth (after the upper and lower hoses and the upper bolt are removed) until the tab for the bottom bolt snaps off.
Then if they reinstall the PHH pipe they just leave the bottom tab unconnected or some people just do a PHH bypass with a longer section of hose and forget about the PHH pipe. I'm not saying replacing the PHH pipe is the best way compared to the bypass, it's just one way for those who want to put it back in the original configuration.
So after a lot of trial and error and busting my knuckles and brain trying to remove the PHH water pipe assembly from above or via the left front wheel well I found that the bottom PHH pipe bolt can best be accessed by first removing the valve cover then approaching from the right side of the vehicle.
Removing the valve cover means having to remove the Throttle Body and pretty much means at least loosening the heat control valve and the engine harness from the firewall. But this is not wasted effort as the heat control valve, if original, will need replacing along with the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. Also the Throttle body and upper intake plenum can be cleaned up to some extent while they're off the engine including the port/tunnel for the EGR gases that can become totally blocked with carbon (not an issue if you're deleted your EGR system). It's also a good time to clean and paint/coat the valve cover if you're so inclined. So one job turns into six.
I am sure there are some people who were able to get to the bottom PHH pipe bolt via a different approach, this is just another way to go about it while at the same time taking care of a few other maintenance issues.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The photos tell the story:
Typical appearance of a leaking PHH after a prior repair by PO. Approached the PHH at this point from the left front wheel well (vehicle on two jack stands, left front wheel and rubber curtains removed). I did not initially disconnect the transmission dipstick tube although others do for more room to work, but I later found it to be very helpful to remove the tube
and push it to one side. Removing the starter gives even more room to work.
I was unable to reach the PHH pipe lower bolt from below via the wheel well however a few others have said they were succesfull.
Old PHH was removed by using a hookbill knife along with a sharpened paring knife then long needle nose pliers to pull the pieces off the pipes.
Note in the photo below how the PHH pipe (water pipe sub assembly 87209-60381) and short pipe on the head are almost touching (hose has been removed):
Next photo below shows how the PHH pipe can be bent forward (both hoses and top bolt removed first) if doing a quickie repair ie: by sliding a new section of heater hose up onto the PHH pipe then rotating the pipe back inline then pulling the hose section down onto the other pipe. Some people report this is a bit difficult depending on how stiff the replacement hose is; soaking in hot water before installation may help.
For orientation, photo below was taken looking up from the left front wheel well, left is forward toward the radiator, right is toward the transmission (note starter has been removed lower right).
Double click on photo for close up view
Next photo below shows the upper PHH pipe bolt with depressed hex head (hex tools like an Allen wrench cannot be used to remove this type bolt as it's a non-standard size somewhere around 7.4mm and very shallow). It's very easy to get to this bolt using a 12mm socket, 3/8" extension, and ratchet or impact wrench.
For orientation, photo taken from right side of vehicle looking down onto
the EGR pipe. Valve cover is at the bottom, out of the frame, edge of EGR valve right top corner, PHH pipe top center.
Photo below is of the PHH pipe upper bolt tab (bolt removed) and the lower PHH pipe bolt to the left of the #6 injector: note faint original yellow paint on that bolt (for detail click photo twice to magnify). The valve cover is still in place in this photo.
Some people may be able to reach the lower bolt from this location with the valve cover in place but there's very little room to swing a wrench then add the risk of damaging the fuel injector.
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