Part-Time Conversion on the mind? (1 Viewer)

[gofast]

spent more than the price of these kits converting mine to part time four years ago. This is a great deal!

If I recall the part time conversion kit was about the 700, and then I bought the switch. Had to source AVM's seperately.

Now I run AISIN. Wish you were doing this then Kurt.

I do have the abs relocator kit. Recommend that a second set of bosses for the reluctor wheela be purchased for easy swap over when you change rotors. This allows you to cut up the old rotors to salvage the kit's original bosses - if you don't have a fancy hammer slide puller

 

[lastresort576]

What is the price with the bearing supplied and pressed on? I also don't need the CDL switch.

Not to undermine @cruiseroutfit here, but since we're in tech and not FS/Vendor FS;
What's your location? I'm sure you could find someone locally to press off and press the bearing on the new spool. It only takes a few minutes to do, even when doing it for the first time...Hell I'd do it for a 6'er of Stone Ruination IPA.

 

[shocktower]

But a CDL switch doesn't stop a birf from spinning in the housing (or a pinion, or a front shaft, etc). You would need hubs for that. I'm curious as to the "wear is balanced" out. How does the wear balance out for a birf or the smaller from u-joints versus the rear stuff?

That said it's NOT for everyone, for a handful that love it, there is one or two that don't and I can certainly appreciate that.

Oh I agree, it is not for everyone, and the OP wanted opinion's and I gave mine. I am just saying if you are worried about a Birf failing drop the front drive line lock the CDL and drive home, without killing the VC if you have one, and even if you don't you still can drive very well, with a broken Birf with out locking the CDL. I drove mine a lot of miles before I replaced my VC, and had a rear end fail because of putting everything on the rear VS balancing with an AWD, I could be full of BS, or the previous owners did not take care of it, IDK it died. JMHO

 

[shocktower]

Out of curiosity, did you replace all your OEM rubber bushings (front/rear panhard, front/rear upper/rear lower control arm and front/rear sway bar)? I ask because mine handled poorly in 2WD before doing all of these. Once replaced the truck feels like any other 2WD truck I've had in the past.

Just the OME caster ones, that came in my lift, the others where fine, I just like the way it drives better in AWD JMHO

 

[baldilocks]

Oh I agree, it is not for everyone, and the OP wanted opinion's and I gave mine. I am just saying if you are worried about a Birf failing drop the front drive line lock the CDL and drive home, without killing the VC if you have one, and even if you don't you still can drive very well, with a broken Birf with out locking the CDL. I drove mine a lot of miles before I replaced my VC, and had a rear end fail because of putting everything on the rear VS balancing with an AWD, I could be full of BS, or the previous owners did not take care of it, IDK it died. JMHO

Driving on the rear axle alone did not kill your differential.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Oh I agree, it is not for everyone, and the OP wanted opinion's and I gave mine. I am just saying if you are worried about a Birf failing drop the front drive line lock the CDL and drive home, without killing the VC if you have one, and even if you don't you still can drive very well, with a broken Birf with out locking the CDL. I drove mine a lot of miles before I replaced my VC, and had a rear end fail because of putting everything on the rear VS balancing with an AWD, I could be full of BS, or the previous owners did not take care of it, IDK it died. JMHO

You can pull the driveline but you would also need to pull the drive flange (and cove with something to prevent it from getting contaminated) otherwise driving with a broken birf can and has destroyed housings, spindles, inner axle seal surfaces, etc. Not advised. Really its not advised to drive with a broken birf with hubs as the broken chunks can still damage a housing with the steering rotation of the knuckle, that said I've driven for a week or more on a broken birf (unlocked hubs of course).

I'm 100% confident your rear diff did NOT fail because of the PT conversion. Toyota has used that same design and exact same components in factory part-time vehicles across the globe for decades, non-issue.

 

[baldilocks]

You can pull the driveline but you would also need to pull the drive flange (and cove with something to prevent it from getting contaminated) otherwise driving with a broken birf can and has destroyed housings, spindles, inner axle seal surfaces, etc. Not advised. Really its not advised to drive with a broken birf with hubs as the broken chunks can still damage a housing with the steering rotation of the knuckle, that said I've driven for a week or more on a broken birf (unlocked hubs of course).

I'm 100% confident your rear diff did NOT fail because of the PT conversion. Toyota has used that same design and exact same components in factory part-time vehicles across the globe for decades, non-issue.

I would strongly recommend removing a broken birf under all conditions and vehicle configurations and never hit the road with a broken birf. I once broke both birfs in my FJ40 and was unable to steer due to shrapnel that jambed up between the knuckle and the ball. Double Birf/axle removal on the Rubicon, what a mess and how fun it was doing the difficult half with only rear drive. One more reason to have locked diff's.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Does Aisin make free wheel hubs for my already part time 100 series?

Edit: I need to confirm fit but these may be fitted with some slight mods to either the I'd splines or your CV splines, I'll start a new thread on that later. However these hubs have the right stud configuration and pattern.
Part# HUBFHT001
Cruiser Outfitter

No, we've stocked them for a few years. I'll dig up some installed pics.

Beno sent me down the same rabbit hole a couple years back. You will be the only person in the world that says it can work.
The spline on a IFS 100 are not the same as a 80 series. I tried fitment on the above Aisin hub on a 99 01 and 06 no Beuno

IF you are willing to accept a 100% return including shipping if they dont fit I purchase a set today. Let me know

You may want to see the below thread first

LOKKA Part -Time Kit

@cruiseroutfit Have you started a new thread on Aisin hubs to fit 100 series. I'm look forward to the ability of upgrading my 100 series AVM hubs.
Ready to order a working Aisin hub today.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

@cruiseroutfit Have you started a new thread on Aisin hubs to fit 100 series. I'm look forward to the ability of upgrading my 100 series AVM hubs.
Ready to order a working Aisin hub today.

No progress here on Mud, I've made it as far as measuring them and confirming the 100 series CV splines have a slightly larger OD however we've got a couple options in the works that may come to fruition shortly. I'll see if I can find a minute to play with that project some more this week.

 

[Pitch]

So the thing that has deterred me from a part time kit (besides the obvious stated benefits) has been my perceived loss of drivability in the snow. I run an auto locker in the rear, and as such, I prefer to lock the CDL when the road is sloppy. But, on roads that go back and forth between dry and snow/ice, the CDL needs to be unlocked to prevent binding.

Now, these conditions are created by the auto locker. It is waaaaay better in the snow than a spool (been there, it is terrifying), and the auto locker is worse than a selectable/open diff in the snow.

Does anyone who drives regularly in snow with an auto locker have any experience with a PT kit? And no, I am already regeared, and do not intend to do a rear ARB (but have one up front).

 

[Dissent]

So the thing that has deterred me from a part time kit (besides the obvious stated benefits) has been my perceived loss of drivability in the snow. I run an auto locker in the rear, and as such, I prefer to lock the CDL when the road is sloppy. But, on roads that go back and forth between dry and snow/ice, the CDL needs to be unlocked to prevent binding.

Now, these conditions are created by the auto locker. It is waaaaay better in the snow than a spool (been there, it is terrifying), and the auto locker is worse than a selectable/open diff in the snow.

Does anyone who drives regularly in snow with an auto locker have any experience with a PT kit? And no, I am already regeared, and do not intend to do a rear ARB (but have one up front).

When you say "...than a spool (been there,..." what kind of spool are you referring to? The transfer case spool for a part time kit or something in the rear diff?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

No progress here on Mud, I've made it as far as measuring them and confirming the 100 series CV splines have a slightly larger OD however we've got a couple options in the works that may come to fruition shortly. I'll see if I can find a minute to play with that project some more this week.

It would of been great if the only difference was a ~.5mm larger I would have Aisin hubs. But its not that easy with the pressure angle of the 100 axle splines (45°) and the Aisin FHT-001 (30°)being different from the information I have received from Toyota drawings. Also the Aisin FHT-001 gear is not the same depth as the drive plate and if one was able to pound the hubs on another axle groove would be needed.

I would be happy to see the pictures of your previous install.

 

[OGBeno]

It would of been great if the only difference was a ~.5mm larger I would have Aisin hubs. But its not that easy with the pressure angle of the 100 axle splines (45°) and the Aisin FHT-001 (30°)being different from the information I have received from Toyota drawings. Also the Aisin FHT-001 gear is not the same depth as the drive plate and if one was able to pound the hubs on another axle groove would be needed.

I would be happy to see the pictures of your previous install.

As stated above, the CV shaft has to change to 43430-60050 to make the Aisin hubs work.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

As stated above, the CV shaft has to change to 43430-60050 to make the Aisin hubs work.

What is the guarantee and what is the cost?

Edit - the correct part number for the end axle stub is 43460-69155 per Cruiser Outfitters

 

[dogfishlake]

I used to think I wanted to keep my AWD because I used to drive my 80 in the winter in Michigan. My decision to try to keep her forever has prompted me to store her during salt months (Torture!) to try to preserve everything. Now the part time kit really sounds good. On a good day, she'll lay the tiniest AWD burnout, I bet I could spend a lot on tires with 2wd!

 

[dogfishlake]

Seriously though, it does sound like a good idea for more practical reasons. I am trying to balance the ability to hustle down the highway long distance then wheel/camp upon destination to wherever, then get back home.

 

[Pitch]

When you say "...than a spool (been there,..." what kind of spool are you referring to? The transfer case spool for a part time kit or something in the rear diff?

I was referring to a spool in the rear diff: always "locked."

 

[dogfishlake]

View attachment 1406616 View attachment 1406617 First of all no such thing as a stupid question on this forum. I will give my 2 cents. I am running part time mainly due to the fact that my 80 is lifted 4-5" and I get vibrations running the factory front driveshaft. I believe this is the number one reason to do it. I took the advice of several members and purchased a DC drive shaft for the front prior to my LS swap and that did the trick so I was happy. The DC shaft wont clear my 6L80E transmission pan so I went back to the stock shaft and didn't like the vibration so I decided to go to PT 4WD. THe advantages that I see are....

1) No vibrations unless you engage 4wd which is very rare for me unless out hunting / camping etc..and the vibes only occur at higher speeds.

2) Less wear on the front driveline parts since they are not spinning until the center diff lock switch is engaged and the hubs get locked.

3) Better gas milage (I have not tested but others have)

4) AISIN Gold locking hubs looks bad ass.

5) AISIN locking hubs are cool

6) Chicks dig AISIN Gold locking hubs.

I purchased mine from Cruiser Outfitters. Thanks guys I love them.

Have you done a build thread on that bad boy 80 yet? I'm dying to see it

 

[Dissent]

I was referring to a spool in the rear diff: always "locked."

Gotcha, thanks!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

It would of been great if the only difference was a ~.5mm larger I would have Aisin hubs. But its not that easy with the pressure angle of the 100 axle splines (45°) and the Aisin FHT-001 (30°)being different from the information I have received from Toyota drawings. Also the Aisin FHT-001 gear is not the same depth as the drive plate and if one was able to pound the hubs on another axle groove would be needed.

I would be happy to see the pictures of your previous install.

And I'd be happy to see your drawings from Toyota

Even if the OD were the only difference that wouldn't change the fix so I don't see how that makes it great or not great? It's not like you could simply turn down or broach either the CV or the inner gear so the pressure angle is irrelevant if the OD doesn't jive. Even if there was physically enough to material to EDM or similar, the resultant product would lack heat treating and cost more than the alternative which is a new chromo inner ideally.

The customer we sold them too hasn't responded back so it's possible he hasn't installed them.

Edit: He did reply. JC must have swapped them out for the AVM. He's happy with the PT kit though.