Part-Time Conversion on the mind? (2 Viewers)

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I appreciate the great pro-con feedback from real-world users. Thanks guys!
 
Low range T case gears such as our Sumo Japanese gears

"Sumo Japanese gears"...what is this you speak of? So not Marlin, Mark's, or TG???? Elaborate please kind sir as your website currently just teases with the info....:hmm:
 
"Sumo Japanese gears"...what is this you speak of? So not Marlin, Mark's, or TG???? Elaborate please kind sir as your website currently just teases with the info....:hmm:

Sumo gears are made in Japan, that is the manufactures trade name. They are in fact sold by several others with various names but Sumo is the root name. We offer them as Sumo :D

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3.1:1 Low Range Reduction Gear Set - 80/100 Series Land Cruisers
Fits 1/1990-1/1998 8x Series/LX450 and 98-07 100 Series Land Cruisers/LX470. Fits both factory part-time (H1FA) and full-time (HF2A/HF2AV) transfer cases found in US Spec and global market Land Cruisers. Includes both low speed output gear and idler gear. No case machining required these are a direct fit to your 80/100 Series transfer case. Factory ratio is 2.49:1, these 3.1:1 gears offer a 25% low range reduction with no change to the 1:1 high range. Made in Japan to OE Toyota specifications.
Part# TCG900731 - $725.00 - IN STOCK
Cruiser Outfitters
 
Sumo gears are made in Japan, that is the manufactures trade name. They are in fact sold by several others with various names but Sumo is the root name. We offer them as Sumo :D

TCG900731.jpg


3.1:1 Low Range Reduction Gear Set - 80/100 Series Land Cruisers
Fits 1/1990-1/1998 8x Series/LX450 and 98-07 100 Series Land Cruisers/LX470. Fits both factory part-time (H1FA) and full-time (HF2A/HF2AV) transfer cases found in US Spec and global market Land Cruisers. Includes both low speed output gear and idler gear. No case machining required these are a direct fit to your 80/100 Series transfer case. Factory ratio is 2.49:1, these 3.1:1 gears offer a 25% low range reduction with no change to the 1:1 high range. Made in Japan to OE Toyota specifications.
Part# TCG900731 - $725.00 - IN STOCK
Cruiser Outfitters
No case machining, NICE! Just maybe..........
 
This may be a stupid question. But I'm asking anyways :) I'm guessing by disabling all-time 4 wheel drive the main benefit is mpg? Just trying to understand what the main benefit is for doing this.
 
This may be a stupid question. But I'm asking anyways :) I'm guessing by disabling all-time 4 wheel drive the main benefit is mpg? Just trying to understand what the main benefit is for doing this.

That was addressed higher up in this thread. There are a few reasons: less wear and tear on front end components, eliminate drive-line vibes caused by lift, drive-ability, ability to "turn off" the front axle in the case of damaged birfs or axles, mileage, etc.
 
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This may be a stupid question. But I'm asking anyways :) I'm guessing by disabling all-time 4 wheel drive the main benefit is mpg? Just trying to understand what the main benefit is for doing this.
First of all no such thing as a stupid question on this forum. I will give my 2 cents. I am running part time mainly due to the fact that my 80 is lifted 4-5" and I get vibrations running the factory front driveshaft. I believe this is the number one reason to do it. I took the advice of several members and purchased a DC drive shaft for the front prior to my LS swap and that did the trick so I was happy. The DC shaft wont clear my 6L80E transmission pan so I went back to the stock shaft and didn't like the vibration so I decided to go to PT 4WD. THe advantages that I see are....

1) No vibrations unless you engage 4wd which is very rare for me unless out hunting / camping etc..and the vibes only occur at higher speeds.

2) Less wear on the front driveline parts since they are not spinning until the center diff lock switch is engaged and the hubs get locked.

3) Better gas milage (I have not tested but others have)

4) AISIN Gold locking hubs looks bad ass.

5) AISIN locking hubs are cool

6) Chicks dig AISIN Gold locking hubs.

I purchased mine from Cruiser Outfitters. Thanks guys I love them.
 
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I have had my LC in 2 wheel drive mode, I hate the way it handled, and the wear and tear is, something that is balanced out in a ADW, if you are worried about blowing out a Birf buy the CDL and take 20 minutes to install, and if your front drive line is rubbing, after a lift get a adjustable panard rod, and adjust it. JMHO I love my LC AWD
 
I have had my LC in 2 wheel drive mode, I hate the way it handled, and the wear and tear is, something that is balanced out in a ADW, if you are worried about blowing out a Birf buy the CDL and take 20 minutes to install, and if your front drive line is rubbing, after a lift get a adjustable panard rod, and adjust it. JMHO I love my LC AWD

Out of curiosity, did you replace all your OEM rubber bushings (front/rear panhard, front/rear upper/rear lower control arm and front/rear sway bar)? I ask because mine handled poorly in 2WD before doing all of these. Once replaced the truck feels like any other 2WD truck I've had in the past.
 
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4) AISIN Gold locking hubs looks bad ass.

5) AISIN locking hubs are cool

6) Chicks dig AISIN Gold locking hubs.

I purchased mine from Cruiser Outfitters. Thanks guys I love them.

All great answers! :D
 
I have had my LC in 2 wheel drive mode, I hate the way it handled, and the wear and tear is, something that is balanced out in a ADW, if you are worried about blowing out a Birf buy the CDL and take 20 minutes to install, and if your front drive line is rubbing, after a lift get a adjustable panard rod, and adjust it. JMHO I love my LC AWD

But a CDL switch doesn't stop a birf from spinning in the housing (or a pinion, or a front shaft, etc). You would need hubs for that. I'm curious as to the "wear is balanced" out. How does the wear balance out for a birf or the smaller from u-joints versus the rear stuff?

That said it's NOT for everyone, for a handful that love it, there is one or two that don't and I can certainly appreciate that.
 
The metallurgy of chromoly means the wear surfaces like the races in the birf wouldn't hold up as long. But.. Anecdotally I think guys are running them for a lot of AWD miles without issue. Maybe not the 200k stock units seem to go to.

Also, supposedly, guys are wheeling the stock OEM parts pretty hard up to 35" tire without problems.

Thing is.. the chromo stuff is cheaper than new OEM by a long shot.

I originally planned on staying full-time so already ordered OE birfs from japan (cheap) and had a pair of good axles without grooves. With the decision to do PT I would run chromo with NON-HD hub gears. I'd personally rather those be the "fuse" than anything else, even if it would destroy the hub body. As long as the birf/axle/diff survive I can slap on a spare or a drive flange and get out.
I'm poised to go part time very soon as I now have the low range gears (Japan), Marks's part time kit, RCV shafts (super sweet) and ARP hub stud kit. So, I spent a good bit of time web wheeling to gain info on just how tough Aisin standard, red hubs are.

I agree with you on leaving the Aisin hubs stock in hopes that they give up first but what I have found out is that they are very strong in stock form and if the engagement gear breaks it usual jambs up Between the drive gear and the hub body and continues to perform as if "locked" sometimes unnoticed until you can't unlock it or even until you remove it for some other reason only to find out the engagement gear has broken.

What I don't look forward to doing is drilling broken studs out.
 
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What I don't look forward to doing is drilling broken studs out.

Large part of why I'll be keeping stock hub studs. Though my needs appear to be different than yours.

Otherwise, great info about the gears breaking. I'd hope the break would make some noise and I'd go investigating...
 

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