This is all great info guys, thanks!
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Low range T case gears such as our Sumo Japanese gears
"Sumo Japanese gears"...what is this you speak of? So not Marlin, Mark's, or TG???? Elaborate please kind sir as your website currently just teases with the info....
No case machining, NICE! Just maybe..........Sumo gears are made in Japan, that is the manufactures trade name. They are in fact sold by several others with various names but Sumo is the root name. We offer them as Sumo
3.1:1 Low Range Reduction Gear Set - 80/100 Series Land Cruisers
Fits 1/1990-1/1998 8x Series/LX450 and 98-07 100 Series Land Cruisers/LX470. Fits both factory part-time (H1FA) and full-time (HF2A/HF2AV) transfer cases found in US Spec and global market Land Cruisers. Includes both low speed output gear and idler gear. No case machining required these are a direct fit to your 80/100 Series transfer case. Factory ratio is 2.49:1, these 3.1:1 gears offer a 25% low range reduction with no change to the 1:1 high range. Made in Japan to OE Toyota specifications.
Part# TCG900731 - $725.00 - IN STOCK
Cruiser Outfitters
No case machining, NICE! Just maybe..........
This may be a stupid question. But I'm asking anyways I'm guessing by disabling all-time 4 wheel drive the main benefit is mpg? Just trying to understand what the main benefit is for doing this.
First of all no such thing as a stupid question on this forum. I will give my 2 cents. I am running part time mainly due to the fact that my 80 is lifted 4-5" and I get vibrations running the factory front driveshaft. I believe this is the number one reason to do it. I took the advice of several members and purchased a DC drive shaft for the front prior to my LS swap and that did the trick so I was happy. The DC shaft wont clear my 6L80E transmission pan so I went back to the stock shaft and didn't like the vibration so I decided to go to PT 4WD. THe advantages that I see are....This may be a stupid question. But I'm asking anyways I'm guessing by disabling all-time 4 wheel drive the main benefit is mpg? Just trying to understand what the main benefit is for doing this.
I have had my LC in 2 wheel drive mode, I hate the way it handled, and the wear and tear is, something that is balanced out in a ADW, if you are worried about blowing out a Birf buy the CDL and take 20 minutes to install, and if your front drive line is rubbing, after a lift get a adjustable panard rod, and adjust it. JMHO I love my LC AWD
...
4) AISIN Gold locking hubs looks bad ass.
5) AISIN locking hubs are cool
6) Chicks dig AISIN Gold locking hubs.
I purchased mine from Cruiser Outfitters. Thanks guys I love them.
I have had my LC in 2 wheel drive mode, I hate the way it handled, and the wear and tear is, something that is balanced out in a ADW, if you are worried about blowing out a Birf buy the CDL and take 20 minutes to install, and if your front drive line is rubbing, after a lift get a adjustable panard rod, and adjust it. JMHO I love my LC AWD
I'm poised to go part time very soon as I now have the low range gears (Japan), Marks's part time kit, RCV shafts (super sweet) and ARP hub stud kit. So, I spent a good bit of time web wheeling to gain info on just how tough Aisin standard, red hubs are.The metallurgy of chromoly means the wear surfaces like the races in the birf wouldn't hold up as long. But.. Anecdotally I think guys are running them for a lot of AWD miles without issue. Maybe not the 200k stock units seem to go to.
Also, supposedly, guys are wheeling the stock OEM parts pretty hard up to 35" tire without problems.
Thing is.. the chromo stuff is cheaper than new OEM by a long shot.
I originally planned on staying full-time so already ordered OE birfs from japan (cheap) and had a pair of good axles without grooves. With the decision to do PT I would run chromo with NON-HD hub gears. I'd personally rather those be the "fuse" than anything else, even if it would destroy the hub body. As long as the birf/axle/diff survive I can slap on a spare or a drive flange and get out.
What I don't look forward to doing is drilling broken studs out.
What is the price with the bearing supplied and pressed on? I also don't need the CDL switch.