Parasitic battery drain test

[Kschep]

My god I’ve ordered the incorrect ignition switch? it’s the correct year but the wire colors are different so that leads me to believe it’s incorrect as well. Anyways, trying to install it - there’s a little metal “key” (I’ll call it) that needs to fit into the new switch correctly or else doesn’t work with actual key side of ignition switch. I took a pic so you know what I’m talking about. My question is: can I just get a flat head screw driver and turn the inside so it’s oriented correct for my ignition switch to fit on it properly? (This ignition switch attachment side that goes onto the metal key pictured)

 

[45Dougal]

Put the key in the lock barrel, and you can turn it to match the switch body.
You normally need to turn it slightly before you can press the locking pin.

Use your meter to test that the connections match the diagram

 

[Kschep]

Put the key in the lock barrel, and you can turn it to match the switch body.
You normally need to turn it slightly before you can press the locking pin.

Use your meter to test that the connections match the diagram

When you say test connections match the diagram - you mean my wiring diagram correct? I have one for the 40 but I do not have one for the steering column because I couldn’t narrow it down to a specific vehicle. I think it’s a 84 4Runner. It has chalked on it “84 TILT 4x4” … anyone know what TILT means?

Regardless I know which ones are the main 4 - the only thing I don’t know is the horn wire for this steering column. I’ve plugged up the green/orange and the green/red and the horn button still doesn’t respond. I plugged in the solid Green wire and the horn just goes off and doesn’t stop so it seems if that’s the wire then the switch is actuated and I need to figure out why it’s constantly on or else it’s one of the other ones…I could use some help on that. I’m still digging the internet and diagrams for horn wire colors for “84 TILT 4x4” - lol

 

[pb4ugo]

Does your steering column have a tilt wheel?

 

[Kschep]

Does your steering column have a tilt wheel?

I’m not sure what that means .. steering wheel brand?

 

[pb4ugo]

Does the column have a tilt mechanism in it, so the wheel adjusts up and down?

 

[Kschep]

Not that I can see - I mean maybe there’s something that I’m not seeing but no straight up notability to tilt any direction. But no matter I’ve figured out how to get a screw driver in that ignition switch and turn it to match the key metal thing that fits inside it and viola … anyways I still can’t figure out which wire is the horn wire for this friggen steering column?
Also the horn button could be the issue too but I’m not sure how to test for that one, I’ll have to research a bit on that

And now I’m noticing my blinkers aren’t working - great … so off to the next thing I guess. There all wired in correct but now that I finally have a column to plug into they don’t work so I’ll be testing continuity there next.

 

[TreadingLight]

But is that strange that when I put 5the meter on 200mAmp - touch black to ground cable and red probe to negative post (with positive post connected, my starter reacts?

Did you get a reading on the meter?

Is that because by touching the two leads to ground post and cable it completes the ground circuit

Yes

and fires the starter!?

Maybe.

Let's be methodical here and sort out your test procedure. If the fuses in your meter are intact you should see similar behaviour (something clicking by the starter) if you test amps, mA, or just put your neg cable on the batter terminal.

Note if the draw is greater than the fuse in your meter (10A or 200mA) it will blow so you should have some spares.

1. Buy a six pack and call a friend over.
2. Open up the meter and check the fuses or just preemptively replace them if you don't have a way to test them.
3. With ign key off, spin the dial to 10A mode, plug the red probe into the 10A port on the meter.
4. Get friend under the rig near starter to feel/hear what is reacting
5. Disconnect the battery neg cable. Put put one probe on the battery terminal and the other on the cable. Scratch the probes around real good to get a good connection.
6. If no reading on the meter or noise from near the starter, then either your meter is broken or you don't have a drain.
7. If you get a reading and a noise confirmed to come from the starter, you may have a short in the starter/solenoid and it should be replaced. Gear reduction starter upgrade time.
8. If you get a reading on the meter and no noise, the hunt continues. Next unplug the alternator and see if the draw goes away. If it does you need an alternator.
9. If the meter continues showing a draw, then disconnect any aftermarket stuff you have one at a time and see if you identify the culprit.
10. If you still see a draw on the meter, reconnect the battery and move to the fusebox. Pull each fuse one at a time and put the probes on each side of the fuse holder until you find the culprit.