!OY Coolermans 2/71 Build

[Coolerman]

Pic 4 shows the rear bearing after pulling the seal. Bearings were fine so they stayed in. The gray goo is grease that was behind the seal.

Pic 5 shows it after I painted it with rust bullet then gave it two coats of black gloss enamel.

The brake backing plates were powder coated high gloss silver as was the rear diff cover and a few misc parts on it Pic 6

 

[apeterson]

looks good!!

 

[Coolerman]

I pulled all the wheel cylinders apart, de-rusted them, powder coated them gloss black, honed them out, powder coated the pistons and adjusters chrome, lubed them up with copper based anti-seize and re-installed the original guts. (they were new).

Next I installed new rear seals gotten from Cruiser Outfitters using a seal driver. Then I re-installed the axles going through the fun of again figuring out how the damn spider gears get into their respective locations. I would post and show the 'trick' but I believe EVERY Cruiser owner should have to figure this out at least once in their life.

I still have the brake lines to do and need a few nuts and bolts to finish. In the meantime I'm finishing up the rear spring tear down, de-rust, paint and coat with Slip Plate. Then I can put the axle back under it.

 

[Coolerman]

I also made the decision to use all 4 speed driveshafts so I would not have to have the drive shafts modifieds. The 4 speed shafts are supposed to be stronger anyway.

To accomplish this I ordered a set of course spline, large bolt pattern, pinion flages from Cruiser Outfitters. I replaced the front pinion and the front output output of the t-case with these. I used the 4 speed emergency brake drum and my rear diff already had the large bolt pattern flange.

I de-rusted the propellor shafts, then primed and painted them gloss black.

 

[Trollhole]

I pulled all the wheel cylinders apart, de-rusted them, powder coated them gloss black, honed them out, powder coated the pistons and adjusters chrome, lubed them up with copper based anti-seize and re-installed the original guts. (they were new).

Next I installed new rear seals gotten from Cruiser Outfitters using a seal driver. Then I re-installed the axles going through the fun of again figuring out how the damn spider gears get into their respective locations. I would post and show the 'trick' but I believe EVERY Cruiser owner should have to figure this out at least once in their life.

I still have the brake lines to do and need a few nuts and bolts to finish. In the meantime I'm finishing up the rear spring tear down, de-rust, paint and coat with Slip Plate. Then I can put the axle back under it.

Great job.

Have you ever thought of using the RB Black Shell and skip a step? I've read it is just as good as a the original.

 

[Coolerman]

Yes but I had just enough of a can left of the silver to do the rear axle. Is the RB black a gloss, flat or semi gloss? I need to do my radiator frame and shroud!

 

[Trollhole]

Gloss.

 

[Hogan]

Great build keep the pics coming

 

[bajaphile]

Sorry if I missed it, but, when you say "de-rust" are using your electrolysis tub, or are you simply wire wheeling them?

Also, what is this rust bullet you talk about? Is it like POR-15??

I was planning on removing the leafs, taking them apart, derusting them, and painting them. I was thinking about just using a while wheel and spend a day or two

 

[Coolerman]

Sorry if I missed it, but, when you say "de-rust" are using your electrolysis tub, or are you simply wire wheeling them?

Also, what is this rust bullet you talk about? Is it like POR-15??

I was planning on removing the leafs, taking them apart, derusting them, and painting them. I was thinking about just using a while wheel and spend a day or two

FJ40 De-Rust go here to see what I mean about de-rust. It is electrolysis. I let them dry after pulling from the tank then use a wire wheel to knock the now very loose rust off. You can also just use the wire brush to get the rust off. It just takes longer.

I also straightened out the clamps on the springs to get a bit more flex and will use bolts to keep them from flexing too far.
I gave them a coat of zinc based primer then a coat of cheap black paint and finally a thick coat of Slip plate.

The Rust Bullet is like POR 15, but without all the prep steps. Visit their web site Stop Rust with Rust Inhibitor Products, Rust Paint & Coating comes in gloss black (thanks Trollhole) and silver. It does NOT need to be top coated but can be if desired.

 

[jimd4x4]

Coolerman, Looking very good.

 

[Coolerman]

Thanks! Hope to have the chassis rolling again this weekend! Need to roll it out of the garage so I can get the trailer in there to put the body on!

 

[Coolerman]

Ok... STILL no rolling chassis

I have been working on everything BUT the Cruiser for weeks. I have managed to get the rear axle and springs completed just need to reassemble everything!

Pic one shows the trick to installing the shoes easily. Attach the springs, set the top show into postion then firmly grab the shoe and stretch the springs so they pop into position. It helps to use a small c-clamp to hold the top shoe in place while doing this.

The second pic shows the proper placement of the shoes. The shoe has a fat end and a skinny end to match the adjusters. It's common for folks to think the shoes are wrong because they won't fit in to the adjusters.

The thrid pic is all buttoned up ready to go. Yes, those are new brake drum retaining screws. Figured Toyota put them on there for a reason. Yes I will make sure the rim aligns on the screw properly...

 

[apeterson]

any reason for not just doing disk in back... my breaks were shot and to buy all stuff for drums it was more $$ than to fix drums?? was that not the case here?

 

[Coolerman]

Here is the completed axle with new gaskets and new brake lines. Just need to put in back under the truck!

I have also managed to get the front radiator frame painted with Rust Bullet Black Shell. That is some thick stuff! It left brush marks but it's shiny!

All for now, sorry it's not much but life gets in the way sometimes.

 

[Coolerman]

any reason for not just doing disk in back... my breaks were shot and to buy all stuff for drums it was more $$ than to fix drums?? was that not the case here?

No, I had already turned the drums, bought new shoes. and rebuilt the cylinders about 6 years ago and have not driven it much before I tore it down. I also like drum brakes! They stop just fine. I don't plan on too much mud bogging so the self cleaning aspect didn't sway me. As I get older though and have to get under there to adjust them I may sing a different tune!

 

[bsmith123]

looking good

Looking Good Coolerman!

You are a miracle worker considering what you started with!

Great Build keep it up!

Of course a 71 is the ultimate eh

 

[cruiserjunkie]

I finally see why everyone refers to your site wow that is impressive work

 

[Coolerman]

OK! After many delays beyond my control, I last night I FINALLY got the rear axle back under the truck!

Nothing spectacular about this, but having no helper I did have to make use of a couple of jacks.

My method was to attach the springs to the frame at the spring pin (non shackle end), then roll the axle over top of the springs. Next I attached the shackle end then used the bottle jack under the spring plate to raise it and the spring up. Insert the u bolts and tighten down.

Today I'll work on the brake hard lines, and if I have time, start painting the radiator so I can get the cooling system installed.

 

[Coolerman]

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