!OY Coolermans 2/71 Build

[apeterson]

cool!!!!!!!!! I think I may do this also!!! great post Cooler!!!

 

[Coolerman]

Thought I would share a quick and easy way to convert the axle vents to a barbed or horsetail fitting to allow a hose to be run higher.

First, using a 14mm wrench, remove the old vent fitting, and save it for your retirement hoard.

Retain the washer.

Buy 4 horsetail or barbed 1/8 -27 NPT brass fittings. (You could also use 1/8-28 BSPT fittings) These are available from McMaster-Carr or MSC Direct for cheap. 4 allow you to do both axles, the tranny (3sp) and the t-case.

Now you CAN thread these directly in as the brass threads will deform, but I decided to cut the proper threads in the fitting using a 10mm x 1.5 die. Because the -27 pitch threads are smaller than the 1.5 pitch threads we want to cut, the new threads will seal as good as the original.

I clamped a 10mm x 1.5 die into my vise and used a wrench to turn the fitting into the die. This is easily done as the brass is soft. A couple of wraps of Teflon thread tape and thread them in...

 

[bsmith123]

nice

looks good where you gonna run the hose to? I've been doing a bunch of busy work, fixing little things but there's a 2F That might be mine Mon. Fingers crossed


Can I ask a favor? Any idea where this wire goes? It is on the wiper leg of the harness but I may have pulled too much through and it goes under the dash. It's red with a black stripe.

My tape fell off this one--that way of marking isn't foolproof

Take Care

 

[Coolerman]

Red/Black would be Cigarette lighter or Dash lights.

 

[bsmith123]

Thanks

Yup I must of pulled it loose while up under the dash

Much appreciated!

 

[Coolerman]

Another small update: Added a new page to the web site: Radiator Restore details all the above radiator stuff with more detail.

I got the crank pulley nut torqued down. Had to buy a 1 3/4" socket though. I used a big long screwdriver jammed into the flywheel teeth and jammed against the frame rail to keep the engine from turning.

I finally got to install the Gano Coolant Filter! I will be able to check coolant level, condition of coolant and the amount of debris captured all without taking the cap off.

 

[Coolerman]

Next I installed the braided oil lines I got from SOR. They do NOT provide the correct adapters for these lines! They provide 2 90 degree male to male 1/8-27 to the JIC lines adapters, and 2 straight 1/8-27 male to male . I had to order a couple of 1/8-28 BSPT male to female adapters that threaded into the block and 2 90 degree 1/8-27 male to 1/8-27 female adapters to make this all work.

Yes I could have probably found some JIC to 1/8-28 BSPT adapters but Oh well these worked out fine.

 

[Coolerman]

After installing a Puralator PH-8 equivalent filter. I installed the Auto Meter sending unit in the filter housing and the OEM sending unit into the block.

This turned out to be incorrect for the Auto Meter sending unit. grant5127 pointed out that position only measures pressure drop across the filter. :whoops: I moved it to the correct position in the block.

I'm not going to cross post the engine pre-oiling fun. Here is the thread I started for that: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/237122-drill-powered-oil-pressure.html

Last thing I have done is to install a small plastic gas tank from a tiller to do my initial engine start. I want to fix any leaks or other issues while I still have to body off.

Already found one leak in the vacuum shifter. Seems the copper gasket that was OEM in this location needs to be tightened pretty darn tight. I did not get it tight enough and it's position does not allow a wrench or socket to get to it. I will have to remove the shifter to get to it. I will put Teflon tape and an o-ring on it just like I did the oil plug.

 

[Coolerman]

OK, next up: Making a bracket for the mini-truck power steering reservoir.

I tried a couple of places like the radiator support but the hood clearance was an issue. as was the headlight bucket. I asked on mud where was a good spot and Jim C. suggested the inner fender. So I fabbed up a bracket. Here it is...

I welded 6mm captured nuts under the inner fender and tacked the nuts on the back of the bracket. Makes for a super easy, one wrench removal...

 

[Coolerman]

After asking here about the OEM rear step, I had to weld up some holes the PO of this step had made.

Jim C. to the rescue again... He informed me that the OEM step did come in a version that had the tow ball attach to the step, and the tow bracket. So I left the big hole and welded up the smaller holes. I clamped a copper cored computer CPU heat sink to the TOP of the holes to have a flat weld that will require little filling/grinding.

First pic is after welding the holes and removing the copper heat sink. Makes for a very nice flat weld. I did have to fill a couple of voids but very little grinding.

Second pic shows the result...

 

[natvet]

PS bracket

l like the ps resevoir bracket I can do that.. When you begin to route the hosed for the ps please post some more pics of which hose goes where. Thanks Cant wait for you to get it started.

Nathan

 

[FJ40Jim]

Your PS reservoir may be inside the air cleaner.

Test fit before going any further.

 

[Coolerman]

Your PS reservoir may be inside the air cleaner.

Test fit before going any further.

Dag gone it! Talk about a brain fart...

I went home last night to check this, and sure enough, as the pic of my engine bay from a long time ago shows, the air cleaner is dead center on the PS reservoir current location.

Not a huge setback, just a bit embarrassing... I'll mount that air cleaner tonight and relocate my bracket a bit forward or backward.

I should have figured out the PS stuff BEFORE I tore it all down. Live and learn... Thanks Jim... again...

 

[slickrock]

OY! I made a bracket for my Toyota mini res (same as yours) and welded a tab for it to mount on right above the driver side front head lamp. The bracket is just like yours, but more like an L. It works great there (and in a location that all the factory hoses are long enough and do not have any sharp bends), but I did take off my hood support rod prior to this because I hated where it was at and always seemed to get in my way. I would always lay my hood across my windshield or hood frame with a towel protecting it. If you took into account the arms mounting ears and put the bracket low enough, you could keep the support intact.

I am at work right now so no pics. If you want them, let me know.

 

[Coolerman]

Well last night I fixed the dumb mistake I made with the PS reservoir.
Installed the air cleaner, took some more measurements, drilled the new holes, welded in the captured nuts, and bolted her up. I got it real close to the air cleaner so the hoses would line up better. I can use the mini-truck low pressure hose from the pump to the reservoir with no mods. I'll have to make new cooler hoses.

I also de-rusted, sand blasted, and powder coated the bumperetts and rear step.

 

[bsmith123]

looking good

Looking Good Cooler!

at the moment I am stuck away from home with parts awaiting attention

Glad to see you are making progress looks good!

whats you guess on driving it for the first time?--- seems like you've done all the major stuff now

 

[Coolerman]

Well.... I can't work on it at all right now...

I had to put the body back on so I could roll it outside. I'm having a bowed basement wall pushed back in place which required me to empty the basement for the workers to work. They should be done in a week or so if the weather holds. By then I'll have the parts form CDan and can install those to get the initial engine start done. Once I verify I have no major oil/fuel leaks, or other issues, I'm going to put the frame in a barn while I finish the body mods.

When I put the body on the frame I was reminded of the body support channel I have to modify to clear the t-case which now sits further back. None of the Energy Suspension body mount bolts would reach!

The yellow mark shows where I will have to cut the support. That will come when I remove the tub and turn it upside down for degreasing, sandblasting, repair, modify, prime, paint white, and undercoat tan.

 

[Cirbo]

Dood!! Thanks for taking the time to post. I took notes and have a few things to take away for my build. I still need to spend some additional time on your website.

Do watch those guys from Lancaster OH named Jim C.......

Better yet, watch all guys named Jim C.

Thanks,

Jim C. (formerly from Ohio....)

 

[Coolerman]

Well the basement is back together, the Cruiser is back in the garage and I got a chance to work on some more bling.

Here is a pic of my 1976 2F valve cover I got from E-Bay or someone on MUD. It was a bit, uh, funky?

I spent about 2 hours with a drill mounted polishing wheel and some red polishing compound. I really needed a more aggressive polish as there are still a lot of deep scratches, but it's all I had on hand. After cutting the worst of the crud off, I then used a Dremel tool with a much smaller wheel to get into the nooks and crannies. I finished up with a white polishing compound then finally a metal polish. Looks like Chrome! Pic of course does not show the real look...

Now my dilemma, do I leave it chrome and clear coat it, or do I do a translucent anodized red over it like some of the other accents on the engine? I included a pic of it sitting on the engine to help you all make the decision. I'll go with the MUD majority.

 

[Rick '79 FJ40]

I like the clear-coat option...that's what I plan to do with mine. (But what do I know?)

Good job on the cleanup! Mine didn't start out that "funky" but it's a long way from your finished product. Any idea how long the whole process took?

Great write-up! (As usual)