!OY Coolermans 2/71 Build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

bsmith123 said:
where'd you get the hoist stand combo?
Click to expand...

Both are Harbor Freight specials. The stand is a 1000 lb stand and the hoist is a 2 ton hoist. Got both on sale last year for $199.00 total.

The hoist handles the engine easily, even when extended to the 1/2 ton position. This setting is necassary even with the front bumper removed!
 
Did you have any trouble hooking the bellhousing under the lip of the dash? I found I've had to do a little manipulation to slip it under there because of the ps rear motor mount leg catching on the steel bracket thingie round the mount on the frame.
 
IDave said:
Did you have any trouble hooking the bellhousing under the lip of the dash? I found I've had to do a little manipulation to slip it under there because of the ps rear motor mount leg catching on the steel bracket thingie round the mount on the frame.
Click to expand...

Not really, the body is hanging from the celing! I rolled the frame out from under the body so it was a straight shot in. ;) Cheating I know...:D
 
Coolerman said:
Not really, the body is hanging from the celing! I rolled the frame out from under the body so it was a straight shot in. ;) Cheating I know...:D
Click to expand...

D'oh! Yeah. Damn Cheater. :D
 
OK, with all the pressure on me to get this out of the garage, I was forced to work on it some more. :D

Got the flywheel/clutch installed (sse here for the clutch disk backwards screw-up...

I made a clutch alignment tool from my old 3 speed tranny input shaft. Works perfectly and doubles as a paper weight. :idea:

I got the CCOT slave mounted and everything lines up correctly.

Then I started installing the 4 speed tranny...

I cut the heads off of two 12mm x 1.25 x 4" bolts to make some guide studs, greased up the T/O hub and slid the tranny into place. Piece of cake! Only had to wiggle the ouput shaft maybe 1/4 turn.
Rebuild21.webp
Rebuild22.webp
Rebuild23.webp
 
and that's when I spotted what everyone said would be the issue: The @#$@#@# crossmember!

Just for reference: I'm doing the 4 sp trans to 3 sp t-case swap... The 4 sp trans is of course longer but some have claimed to get it in without moving the crossmember. I knew this was an issue, but wanted to mount the trans anyway to see for myself how much room there actually is.

There is aboput 2.3" between the end of the output shaft anf the crossmember. The T-case is of course 5.1" wide. I read I could remove the rear engine mounts and use a jack to lower the engine/tranny enough to slide the T-case on but have not tried it yet. This still means the e-brake could not be serviced without dropping the engine down again.

I may have to just cut the crossmember and move it back... Grumble grumble...
Rebuild24.webp
 
:grinpimp: Baked@ 600 degrees to remove grease, sand blasted to get the gunk off, powder coated gloss black. I did the 3 sp bell housing also at the same time.

Pics show differences between the F and 2F housings.
Rebuild25.webp
Rebuild26.webp
 
I've really enjoyed following your build and have also referenced your Website for my own project. Looks great and thanks for sharing your experience!
 
Coolerman said:
and that's when I spotted what everyone said would be the issue: The @#$@#@# crossmember!
Click to expand...

I am in the exact same spot, but my Xmember seams to have been modified, is yours directly 90deg straight up from the frame? Or is it rolled back a bit? Its hard to tell from the picture.
 
Pick it up!

Coolerman said:
and that's when I spotted what everyone said would be the issue: The @#$@#@# crossmember!

Just for reference: I'm doing the 4 sp trans to 3 sp t-case swap... The 4 sp trans is of course longer but some have claimed to get it in without moving the crossmember. I knew this was an issue, but wanted to mount the trans anyway to see for myself how much room there actually is.

There is aboput 2.3" between the end of the output shaft anf the crossmember. The T-case is of course 5.1" wide. I read I could remove the rear engine mounts and use a jack to lower the engine/tranny enough to slide the T-case on but have not tried it yet. This still means the e-brake could not be serviced without dropping the engine down again.

I may have to just cut the crossmember and move it back... Grumble grumble...
Click to expand...
Mark, just cherry-pick the engine & trans straight up one foot, and install the t-case, then set it back down.

I hate to say shoulda, but you shoulda bolted the whole engine/tranny/case together and then set it in the chassis.

But you're making nice progress! :cheers:
 
Wildman said:
I am in the exact same spot, but my Xmember seams to have been modified, is yours directly 90deg straight up from the frame? Or is it rolled back a bit? Its hard to tell from the picture.
Click to expand...

Mine is actually tilted TOWARD the engine! I wondered if, as it came down the assembly line, that the assembler put some straight up, some tilted back, and some tilted forward? :hhmm: :D
 
FJ40Jim said:
Mark, just cherry-pick the engine & trans straight up one foot, and install the t-case, then set it back down.

I hate to say shoulda, but you shoulda bolted the whole engine/tranny/case together and then set it in the chassis.

But you're making nice progress! :cheers:
Click to expand...

Thanks Jim, I read that many do assemble the whole thing on the floor then lift it into place. I did pull it all in one piece. ;)

I just wanted a stable platform to install the clutch, tranny, and t-case I'm doing this completely by myself so stability is a huge factor.

In your experience, can the E-Brake be serviced without pulling the whole engine/tranny/t-case again? If it can I may just go ahead and lift it again to put the case on instead of moving the cross member. The hoist is still in position!
 
Hi Coolerman,

Your making great progress, how much room do you have from the firewall to the back of the rocker cover. Its hard to tell from the photos but I was wondering because your so close to the crossmember when the transfer case goes on.

Will you have problems mounting the tub back on do you think?
 
The engine is in the stock location so there will be no firewall issues. In my pics the tub is actually hanging from the ceiling of my garage on cables. I can roll the frame in and out from under it to work on it.

I'm installing a 4 speed tranny in place of the stock 3 speed. It's longer than the 3 speed, so the t-case is too close to the cross member to install it without dropping the engine or raising the engine.
 
Thanks Jim, I read that many do assemble the whole thing on the floor then lift it into place. I did pull it all in one piece. ;)
I just wanted a stable platform to install the clutch, tranny, and t-case I'm doing this completely by myself so stability is a huge factor.
Click to expand...
The BH and clutch must be installed w/ engine hanging from the crane. Then the engine can be set gently on a piece of plywood, then tranny & t-case are scooted up against BH and carefully maneuvered into place. The use of an engine tilter and some miscellaneous wood blocks helps a lot.

In your experience, can the E-Brake be serviced without pulling the whole engine/tranny/t-case again? If it can I may just go ahead and lift it again to put the case on instead of moving the cross member. The hoist is still in position!
Click to expand...
No, getting the e-brake off will be impossible w/ out either: lowering the rear of the engine or cutting out the x-member.

So install a new pair of shoes and replace the cable if at all questionable, then install the whole unit into the truck. Because you've antiseezed the P-brk works and replaced wear parts, you will not need to get in there for another 10-20 years.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom