!OY Coolermans 2/71 Build

[bsmith123]

shackle angle

Looking Good,

Always nice to make progress like that when you spend so many weeks scraping and cleaning and fixing.


I hate to ask but from how the shackle angle looks in the rear are you sure you put the springs right way round? Long part to the rear?

Just thought I'd point it out although I've seen others correctly installed that prob'ly just needed some weight for a while to settle the springs, are they new?

You prob'ly thought of that already though.

Keep up the posts looking good!

 

[jimhendrixx]

Dude you took a klunker and made it sweet.

Man you should be proud my friend!

Thanks 4 sharing.

 

[Coolerman]

Looking Good,

Always nice to make progress like that when you spend so many weeks scraping and cleaning and fixing.


I hate to ask but from how the shackle angle looks in the rear are you sure you put the springs right way round? Long part to the rear?

Just thought I'd point it out although I've seen others correctly installed that probably just needed some weight for a while to settle the springs, are they new?

You probably thought of that already though.

Keep up the posts looking good!

I put the military wrap to the frame IE no-shackle end? Hope that's correct, it was a pain in the azz doing that by myself!

Also, though it looks like the body is on the truck it is actually hanging from the ceiling! IE NO weight on the frame at this point. By jumping up and down on the frame I can get the shackles to go back more.

Hopefully by the time the body, tail gate, spare tire carrier and tire. roll bar and jump seats are installed it will settle down more?

 

[Coolerman]

Well here is Sundays work (done in between doing laundry, dishes and changing the oil in both vehicles...)

I painted the radiator support with Rust Bullet Black shell and though it's not bad it did leave brush strokes. I'm going to try thinning it with MEK next time I do this. I cut some 2 1/2" square rubber spacers from some 1/8" rubber scrap pieces I had in the junk box. Figured that was better than the canvas crap I pulled out. Drill the holes slightly under sized to keep them in place.

I painted the center of the plastic fan to sorta of match my other colors , mounted that and put all my hoses on. Then I got all excited cause I was finally going to mount my Gano coolant filter when I ran into a snag. Long story short, I should have ordered the small size filter, not the medium size. No amount of heating, forcing or lubing would get that thing inside the top radiator hose! I was so pissed...

Oh well, I took a couple of pics of the overall engine for your veiwing pleasure...

 

[Coolerman]

Overall Pic

 

[apeterson]

dishes ..

what are those


looks good man!!! you are making great progress... bet you will be done before me...


ohhh nice carb condom!!

 

[Coolerman]

Well, the was actually down at the lake enjoying some time to herself, so I had to be domestic for a weekend.

I have a ways to go before I get done!
I still have:
Major body work to do. (Doors, windshield, tailgate, top all have to be repaired)
Got to get my headers coated or just leave them rusty
Got to put my 2F starter back together so I can trade it in on a gear reduction type
Paint the radiator, get the heater hoses and route them.
Strip the rims and paint them
Make and mount a front bumper
Figure out the shock length (I want the RS-9000's)
Strip the seat frames and paint them

Plus the 1000 other things I can't even think of right now...

 

[1973Guppie]

did you paint your springs in only slipplate? if so, they will rust, ask me how I know, . Just thought I would mention it. I wish I had rattle canned them and then only used slipplate on the inner part of the springs where they rub, instead I painted all of them thinking it was more of a paint, really it is more of a lubricant.

Noah

 

[Coolerman]

Nope, not just slip plate. They were primered with galvanizing primer then shot with whatever black paint I had laying around at the time THEN slip plated...

I have no doubt they will rust in no time regardless, but with the slip plate they sure are loose! I bet it will ride really well.

 

[Coolerman]

OK more radiator stuff.

Used the wifes laundry clothes hanger gizmo to hang the radiator from while I applied a coat of Rust Bullet to it. She was not home so was never the wiser. I also used it to do the 2F shroud I'll be using.

After drying all the parts I moved them into the garage for assembly.

First I cut out 6 rectangular pieces of thin rubber and punched some holes in the center slightly larger than the bolts (8mm x 1.25 x 20mm). I used weather strip cement to glue them to the U-frame.

 

[Coolerman]

Next I slipped the radiator into place in the U-frame, laid the shroud on top of that, applied anti-seize to the 6 bolts and tightened them down.

Now flip the whole assembly over and attach the support cross brace at the top then attach the radiator front air guide ( I have no idea what the hell this thing is really supposed to be, I can find no reference to it in either of my FSM's)

I attached the radiator drain just to see how it fit. I remove it and reinstall it once I get the radiator mounted.

All for now!

 

[bsmith123]

looks good

Yup I didn't realize the body was still off when I asked about the shackles ---looks good I think the silver frame looks pretty nice

 

[1973Guppie]

Nope, not just slip plate. They were primered with galvanizing primer then shot with whatever black paint I had laying around at the time THEN slip plated...

I have no doubt they will rust in no time regardless, but with the slip plate they sure are loose! I bet it will ride really well.

good man! you are smarter than me.....

 

[Coolerman]

Yeah I sort of like the silver frame too, it's different enough to stand out and makes rust easier to spot and repair.

OK here is the radiator temporarily installed to check the fit of the 2F pump and fan combined with the 2F fan shroud. It looks pretty good. Now I know why the u-frame mounts were slotted, it is a tight fit slid all the way forward!

Once I got it mounted I realized I had several things that still needed doing on the front of the engine.

The crank nut was not installed.

The power steering pulley key and nut have been lost, and need to be found and installed.

Water pump bolts were still loose (THAT would have been interesting on start up)

So I pulled the radiator assembly back out and started addressing those things. I will go to Harbor Freight today to get a socket to tighten down the crank nut and try to locate a woodruff key for the pulley.

 

[LXGXFJ]

Very nice work there Coolerman. Your website and the nut/bolt sheet will be excellent reference for my projects. Thanks for all your hard work and documentation.

 

[Coolerman]

This may appear to be a small update but I have spent hours searching MUD and the web to get the info needed.

FUEL LINES​

One of the few places Toyota just irritates the crap out of me is the fuel lines. They used BSPP fittings that are difficult to locate and before some one says it, the correct adapters are just as hard to find.

OK, vent over. I started this project figuring to make the hard line on the frame. Looked easy enough. First pic shows my rusty line on the table and the new lines standing up to the left.

The new lines are standard 5' x 5/16" fuel lines from Advanced Auto.

OK bending this line was super simple, (Pic#2) but then I noticed the OEM line had a rolled lip that would help the fuel line to stay put once the clamp was on. I had no way to make that but the old fuel line to the carb gave me an idea on how to do it. I first cut the old fuel line to get the 1/4-19 compression fittings off. Next I got some 5/16 'olives' from Advanced and placed one over the end of the fuel line, slipped the compression nut on the line then threaded the nut onto a fitting (Pic #3) I removed from the fuel pump.

 

[Coolerman]

Cranking down compresses the olive onto the line. Remove the nut and presto, as good as OEM!

So how did I do the other end without leaving the nut on the line? Simple, I placed a washer with a diameter slightly bigger than the end of the olive on the line. Next I placed the olive on the line, clamped the same fitting used above into a vise, inserted the line into the fitting so the olive was seated into the fitting then used a hammer to tap on the washer driving the olive into the fitting which compressed it on the line. A Dremel tool was then used to cut the washer off the line. See Pic #4 for the completed line compared to the OEM line.

Next up was making the line from the fuel pump to the carb. Pics 5-8 show that.
I had to remove the alternator bracket to get the line under it.

Yes, I screwed up the very last bend to the carb but my stupid bender could not make the bend properly.

 

[Coolerman]

Rest of the pump to carb pics...

 

[apeterson]

This looks great.... I am am not that smart... but what is an "Olive" cooler any way you could get some more close up pics for me...

 

[Coolerman]

An 'olive' (known as a ferrule in some circles) is the little brass gizmo that is compressed onto the line by tightening the compression nut. Just like small copper lines we use on ice makers and such. See pic.