Outback Solutions (ARB) Drawer Install and Review 2011

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well my drawers are in! Pretty straight forward install, and I can't believe i didn't do it sooner! GOing to have to add airbags, because running Slee heavies and packed out for a trip with my AT-Chaser on board, she's sagging. looks great without the trailer on… i don't want to go up to 863s and risk the stinkbug look, so bags will probably be the best option.
 
I am looking to get a set of these drawers and would love to hear any likes / dislikes / things I would have done differently from those who own and use these. I am considering either one fixed floor and one roller floor or two fixed floor drawers (and the fit kit).

Not sure if I want or need the added complexity of the roller top. I will be using a fridge, so I like the idea of being able to slide it out, but the fridge would still be pretty high up requiring a step for the :princess: so it may be just as easy to climb up on the tail gate?

Are there any noises or rattles at all with either type of drawer?

Would you buy the ARB drawers again or go with another brand or another storage solution altogether?

Any other feedback?
 
I have the OS ARB drawers and I really like them. I really can't imagine how I would keep all the gear in the truck without them. The drawers themselves do not rattle if you install them per the instructions. They are tied down tight the mounting brackets.

Some observations:

1) install is kind of a pain, but do it per the instructions and they will turn out nice
2) depending on how heavy you fill the drawers, be prepared to put stiffer/longer springs in to fight the sag. They are heavy and so is all the gear you put in. I went up to 863s from Slee Heavies (I have a slee rear bumper and an RTT)
3) get the side wings. They hold an amazing amount of other stuff, though I used mine to install the electrical distribution for the rear (fridge, lights, etc) on one side and Ham, comm gear on the other. Very nice and tidy.
4) I didn't get a roller top, because I plan on a specific fridge slide, so I can't comment how they would work.
5) they line up level with the rear seats folded down, so it could work for a sleeping platform, but there is a good gap, so you'll need a plan to fill that for sleeping.
6) speaking of the gap, it's a handy gap to keep stuff you'll need in the cabin behind the 2nd row seats. I keep jumper cables, maps, straps in there.
7) the front runner folding chairs fit in the drawers. (I was really happy about this)
8) the drawers hold an amazing amount of stuff and still roll smoothly. They lock in and also in the out position. I would not count on the out though, if you're on a steep hill pointed downward.

That said, I love them. If you will have a fridge and don't plan on a sleeping platform, I'd really look at the trexxbox setup. I really wanted this but it wasn't ready when I bought my drawers. I really like the fridge and kitchen slide configurations, but don't know I'd be willing to give up a drawer for it. I'm basically going to have a similar setup once I add the AT fridge slide / stove combo, so for me I prefer having two full drawers. I keep all my recovery on the left and all the camping gear in the right.

Jonathan also has a newer setup than I think is documented here, so maybe he'll comment in too.
 
A couple of things have reared since I was last in this thread...

- The drawer slide locks are plastic. They break. then the drawer will not "lock" open. I've had 6 replacements.
- Said drawer slide locks only take 25lbs of pressure to release and then the drawers slide closed. Ouch. Any incline and a soft nudge - boom.
- I thought the 3/4 extension would be fine - for the most part it is but, it's annoying. Wish I had full extension, esp. on the fridge slide.

I'm talking to Dave at TrekBoxx about some customizations on System Alpha. I would talk to him before you drop 2 large on the ARB / OS.

http://trekboxx.com/page1/products.html
 
Thanks for the feedback.

For those that have the drawer with the roller floor (not a separate fridge slide), does it rattle at all? It seems like it would with the extra moving parts.

Does the roller floor extend far enough to allow the shorter ARB fridge (37/63qt) lid to open all the way or does it hit the hatch/roof?

I would like to hear from anyone that has just one drawer. Any issues other than hard corners to bang body parts on? Does it feel rock solid? Or is there some play that a second drawer would eliminate?

I think I will stretch my budget and get two drawers. I want one of each type, but am concerned about noises/rattles.
 
Thanks for the feedback.

For those that have the drawer with the roller floor (not a separate fridge slide), does it rattle at all? It seems like it would with the extra moving parts.

Does the roller floor extend far enough to allow the shorter ARB fridge (37/63qt) lid to open all the way or does it hit the hatch/roof?

I would like to hear from anyone that has just one drawer. Any issues other than hard corners to bang body parts on? Does it feel rock solid? Or is there some play that a second drawer would eliminate?

I think I will stretch my budget and get two drawers. I want one of each type, but am concerned about noises/rattles.
I have the roller floor with a National Luna 50L Fridge/Freezer. It does not rattle and pulls out far enough for the lid to open fully. I ordered the optional mounting plate for it and it makes it very secure for the pounding it takes off road. No worries or hassles that folks that use bonji cords have. 2 latches and it is free to remove from the rig. I highly recommend this combo for Overland setups. I also have the roller drawer underneath with one regular size drawer next to them. I have a RTT, so sleeping inside the rig is not an issue. Rock solid setup, but as you've already seen - pricey.

Pic from post# 62 in this thread, about 1.5 yrs ago:

557642-ea17d157f138826da512c0360c9ab8c5.jpg
 
ARBDrawers_zpsb9b3dcee.jpg
I have a two drawer setup with one having a sliding top for the fridge, so far everything has been great. The shorter ARB's lids might clear the hatch but the lid on my 50 does hit, if you want clean access you have to remove the top. No shakes, noises or rattles from them
 
I ordered the optional mounting plate for it and it makes it very secure for the pounding it takes off road. No worries or hassles that folks that use bonji cords have. 2 latches and it is free to remove from the rig.

Any more info on this? I cannot seem to find it on their website.
 
Thanks for the feedback.

For those that have the drawer with the roller floor (not a separate fridge slide), does it rattle at all? It seems like it would with the extra moving parts.

Does the roller floor extend far enough to allow the shorter ARB fridge (37/63qt) lid to open all the way or does it hit the hatch/roof?

I would like to hear from anyone that has just one drawer. Any issues other than hard corners to bang body parts on? Does it feel rock solid? Or is there some play that a second drawer would eliminate?

I think I will stretch my budget and get two drawers. I want one of each type, but am concerned about noises/rattles.

I have one fixed and one roller drawer, and it does not make a peep. I've literally sold cars because of a rattle I couldn't track down (Volvo S70 - turned out it was a Corona in the spare tire well the new owner found - kicked myself after that), so being silent is of utmost concern to me. I find the drawers to be of top notch quality, and they are heavy but probably only marginally heavier, unloaded that is, than the factory 3rd row seats.
 
mine is the same setup for tie downs
 
I also use the ARB tie-downs, but i have aircraft track down the length of the drawer on both sides of the fridge and also on the far drawer so I can tie down pelican cases, etc.

Soon, I plan to switch to the AT-Overland combo fridge-slide + stove, and I hear that has a dedicated method for tie-down of the fridge. Another reason I didn't go with the roller top.

I'll echo mcgaskins - I hate rattles, and these don't. I'm sure the gear inside does, but i can't even hear that!
 
How do you guys manage these when the cargo area is full of gear? Seems like a big hassle and that is why the @TrekboxX solution seems to nice. Can stack gear on top of and to the sides of the fridge with no worry about stuff in the way when sliding the fridge in and out and opening/closing.
 
I googled this:

http://www.equipt1.com/item/weekender-50-52-liter-fridge-freezer-mounting-base-plate

I purchased with fridge at: ColumbiaOverland.com - they should be able to help you find a local rep.

Got it thanks. I thought you were refering to a base that the drawers mounted to.

I also use the ARB tie-downs, but i have aircraft track down the length of the drawer on both sides of the fridge and also on the far drawer so I can tie down pelican cases, etc.

Soon, I plan to switch to the AT-Overland combo fridge-slide + stove, and I hear that has a dedicated method for tie-down of the fridge. Another reason I didn't go with the roller top.

I'll echo mcgaskins - I hate rattles, and these don't. I'm sure the gear inside does, but i can't even hear that!

I will be using L-track as well. They work great for cargo management and are low profile when the anchors are removed.

How do you guys manage these when the cargo area is full of gear? Seems like a big hassle and that is why the @TrekboxX solution seems to nice. Can stack gear on top of and to the sides of the fridge with no worry about stuff in the way when sliding the fridge in and out and opening/closing.

I need a full-width flat surface and need to be able to remove the cargo and roll out a sleeping pad, so I don't want anything above the drawers that can't be easily removed. That's one reason why the trekboxx won't work for me. Looks nice though.
 
How does everyone keep the fridge vents from becoming blocked with other cargo? I notice if I don't leave enough air space around the vents it gets hot and the fans work harder. On my last trip I had to wedge a couple of small pieces of wood in there to create an air space. It seems that at least 2"-3" in front of both vents is required.
 
A couple of things have reared since I was last in this thread...

- The drawer slide locks are plastic. They break. then the drawer will not "lock" open. I've had 6 replacements.
- Said drawer slide locks only take 25lbs of pressure to release and then the drawers slide closed. Ouch. Any incline and a soft nudge - boom.
- I thought the 3/4 extension would be fine - for the most part it is but, it's annoying. Wish I had full extension, esp. on the fridge slide.

I'm talking to Dave at TrekBoxx about some customizations on System Alpha. I would talk to him before you drop 2 large on the ARB / OS.

http://trekboxx.com/page1/products.html

I think my slide locks are broken on one side. Do you have any info or part numbers for them? Were they hard to replace?

Is anyone using the optional accessory drawer divider kit? do you have pictures?
http://store.arbusa.com/OUTBACK-SOLUTIONS-DRAWER-DIVIDER-DD435-P22681C75.aspx
 
Yup, ARB has great Cust service. They once sent me a new cover for free foran RTT that was two years old when I wanted to buy it

To an earlier question, you will have problems opening and accessing the fridge if you don't have a slide. You still can, but the lid won't be able to open as far. My daughter is 5'4" and is able to access the fridge fine on my slide using the tailgate. Without that she would have to stick her head in the back with a lid open only part way.

3 years with my ARB drawers and I am still very happy with them
 

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