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- #21
I do not have the remote unfortunately - it didn't come with the vehicle when I bought it. Wish I could help!
EDIT: Guess that means you just need to replace the DVD screen with a storage solution then!
Lumberjack Engineering: 3D Printed (and beyond!) solutions for the 100 Series Platform. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LJE
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I do not have the remote unfortunately - it didn't come with the vehicle when I bought it. Wish I could help!
EDIT: Guess that means you just need to replace the DVD screen with a storage solution then!
Shoot me a PM. I do, along with a spare screen I pulled out of my overhead player and a rear center console audio control unit (missing 1 knob). If you’d like some or all of this stuff, happy to send it to you for the cost of shipping. I could also include a spare DVD player when I find time to pull it out of the rear of the vehicle.
Caveat: I was told this stuff all worked when I purchased the vehicle but I’ve never actually tested the remote. I did verify that when opened, the screen did turn on.
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- Thread starter
- #23
As promised, here's some photos of that RAM mount adaptor for the ashtray in action! This is currently for the 03-07s, but I've got an ashtray on the way from an 98-02 so I can make a version for those years too.
On the photo with the tray pulled out, you can see the felt-covered 'wedges' that help hold everything tight to prevent vibration. The original customer loves it!
On the photo with the tray pulled out, you can see the felt-covered 'wedges' that help hold everything tight to prevent vibration. The original customer loves it!
Mdej3
SILVER Star
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- #25
Great! I'll shoot you a PM.
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- #27
The website is not mine - that's @MongooseGA 's website where some of my stuff is sold.I would like to get info to purchase. Ur wesite does not list it
Some of the more one-off stuff I sell directly - I'll shoot you a message!
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- #29
I received positive feedback on the final version of my Auxbeam switch panel mount for the 98-02 trucks, so that's now available!
Just like the design for the 03-07s, this allows you to mount an Auxbeam Switch Panel & keep your sunglasses holder (important to me!), while requiring no cutting or modification of the headliner or overhead console. It hooks up top around the headliner & locks in by slipping under the overhead console at the bottom - the cable routes underneath the overhead console as well, making for a very clean install! This fits the contour perfectly, achieved by 3D scanning the area and using that data to inform the CAD model.
The design pictured in the CAD screen shots is currently validated to fit perfectly for the AUXbeam RA/RB80, GA80, BA80, AR820, & AR800. I also have a separate design that works for the RA/RB80XL, which is what is shown installed in my 2005 LX470.
These get 3D printed in a black ASA material (to match the color of the AUXbeam body) for heat and UV resistance - perfect for long term use in our trucks! The filament I used is made here in Indiana, so it's a USA designed & manufactured product through-and-through.
These are $30 (including shipping!) within the continental USA. Message me to order!
Just like the design for the 03-07s, this allows you to mount an Auxbeam Switch Panel & keep your sunglasses holder (important to me!), while requiring no cutting or modification of the headliner or overhead console. It hooks up top around the headliner & locks in by slipping under the overhead console at the bottom - the cable routes underneath the overhead console as well, making for a very clean install! This fits the contour perfectly, achieved by 3D scanning the area and using that data to inform the CAD model.
The design pictured in the CAD screen shots is currently validated to fit perfectly for the AUXbeam RA/RB80, GA80, BA80, AR820, & AR800. I also have a separate design that works for the RA/RB80XL, which is what is shown installed in my 2005 LX470.
These get 3D printed in a black ASA material (to match the color of the AUXbeam body) for heat and UV resistance - perfect for long term use in our trucks! The filament I used is made here in Indiana, so it's a USA designed & manufactured product through-and-through.
These are $30 (including shipping!) within the continental USA. Message me to order!
- Thread starter
- #30
Alright - I'm really excited about this next one (well, who am I kidding - I love all my designs! 
).
I've never really understood the cupholders in the lid of the center console - they'd just put drinks right into elbow range, and would be terrible to try to get to while driving. So I designed a customizable storage rack that drops into that same space instead!
For the 2000-2007 (that have the center console lid cup holders!) This requires no drilling or permanent modification to install:
I really like how everything (that's a reasonable thickness at least) ends up recessed into the center console lid - allows you to still fill the top portion of the console full of stuff, load this organizer rack up, and still shut it without having to fiddle around. I think the knife may get swapped for a Snickers bar in the future - for when I inevitably get myself stuck on a trail again, and time is counting down to make it back in time for the big COTR cookoff...
These are going to be $65 shipped - that includes the organizer rack, all hardware, and enough elastic to let you mount just about anything you'd like to it. Message me to order! I can usually get stuff shipped out with 1-2 days - depending on what all I have on-hand and what is in the que. These get printed out of ABS for long term heat resistance in all climates.
).I've never really understood the cupholders in the lid of the center console - they'd just put drinks right into elbow range, and would be terrible to try to get to while driving. So I designed a customizable storage rack that drops into that same space instead!
For the 2000-2007 (that have the center console lid cup holders!) This requires no drilling or permanent modification to install:
- Set this rack up how you want it by running the elastic through the slots in the top piece & then installed the 14x M3x8 countersunk screws to sandwich the two pieces together.
- Pull a couple screws & pins from the OEM cupholder insert to allow you to remove it (side arms can stay in place if you'd like)
- Drop the organizer rack into place & run the provided M3 screws through the existing screw holes down at the bottom to lock it all in.
I really like how everything (that's a reasonable thickness at least) ends up recessed into the center console lid - allows you to still fill the top portion of the console full of stuff, load this organizer rack up, and still shut it without having to fiddle around. I think the knife may get swapped for a Snickers bar in the future - for when I inevitably get myself stuck on a trail again, and time is counting down to make it back in time for the big COTR cookoff...
These are going to be $65 shipped - that includes the organizer rack, all hardware, and enough elastic to let you mount just about anything you'd like to it. Message me to order! I can usually get stuff shipped out with 1-2 days - depending on what all I have on-hand and what is in the que. These get printed out of ABS for long term heat resistance in all climates.
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You sneaky dog, I hadn't seen this one yet.
I like it. I'll take one.
I like it. I'll take one.
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- #32
Hahah! This has been going on for a while - kept squeezing test prints in between 'job' prints. Getting the proper amount of clamping on the elastic took a couple revs!
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- #33
Another batch of ScanGauge II Mounts are heading out to GA today, and this console organizer is heading to a fellow 'mud member! The 3D printer has stayed busy this week:
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- #34
One of the things I love about 3D printing is the ability to easily make changes & improvements as I get more familiar with the flow of assembling/packaging a part - while I make sure I do as thorough 'end use' as I can to catch issues that a customer might have before I start to sell something, sometimes I find ways to improve my production flow after the first handful of parts.
In this case, my organizer for the center console originally used M3 nuts on the backside that the M3 countersunk screws thread into. The below is the underside of my first 'finished' organizer showing this:
I designed these to be a 'press fit' into the 3D print, but I still use a couple dabs of superglue to make sure they don't come loose on somebody during install - that wouldn't be the end of the world, but it would be annoying for someone.
However, I realized pretty quick that gluing each nut in takes more time than I'd like, so I pivoted to using brass heatset inserts now:
These get heated with a soldering iron and then pressed into place. This change massively reduced my touch time for these parts, which is always a benefit! The more work machines can do, the more time I can spend shopping for parts for the LX, errrr, I mean, working....
The design for the RAM mount for the front of the ashtray for the 98-02 cruisers is undergoing final validation now as well! That should be ready for sale soon.
In this case, my organizer for the center console originally used M3 nuts on the backside that the M3 countersunk screws thread into. The below is the underside of my first 'finished' organizer showing this:
I designed these to be a 'press fit' into the 3D print, but I still use a couple dabs of superglue to make sure they don't come loose on somebody during install - that wouldn't be the end of the world, but it would be annoying for someone.
However, I realized pretty quick that gluing each nut in takes more time than I'd like, so I pivoted to using brass heatset inserts now:
These get heated with a soldering iron and then pressed into place. This change massively reduced my touch time for these parts, which is always a benefit! The more work machines can do, the more time
The design for the RAM mount for the front of the ashtray for the 98-02 cruisers is undergoing final validation now as well! That should be ready for sale soon.
Really appreciate the thought going into all of these designs. I am looking for quality, dense speaker mount adapters for my ‘98 LC. The ones you buy from Metra, etc are too thin for quality replacement speakers and aftermarket amps. Repurposing the old speakers leaves you drilling into cardboard to mount the speaker.
Standard mounts are too low profile for most aftermarket speakers. People doing aftermarket audio often use duct seal to add mass and reduce panel resonance, which prevents excessive 100% infill. If interested, I can take measurements off the rear speakers, as I have my door panels pulled to fix window motors.
Standard mounts are too low profile for most aftermarket speakers. People doing aftermarket audio often use duct seal to add mass and reduce panel resonance, which prevents excessive 100% infill. If interested, I can take measurements off the rear speakers, as I have my door panels pulled to fix window motors.
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- #36
Oh, that sounds interesting! Definitely take some measurements if you don't mind & post them here or shoot them to me in a message. I'll do some digging into best practices for incorporating the duct seal - that's an interesting concept.
LJE read my post on dissent rear bumper thread about having a hole from only using one swing out. Mud and 100 community is a small world. Lo and behold we met and hung out together at COTR last year. With some messages back n forth messages , he designed a hexagon 2 piece plug. As you can see, it fits perfectly. Now there is less water falling down and laying on the inside of the bumper. Amazing craftsmanship.
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- #39
Thanks for posting some final pictures - it looks good! I'm glad it fit the first time - nothing like some design-by-telephone (well, forum message)!
This was a simple 2-piece design - the lower piece gets pulled up to spread the 'tabs' on the top piece. These tabs then engage & wedge against the sides of the cutout, locking it all into place. This allows it to be super secure while still allowing you to pull it out easily in the future. It's just a stainless steel M3 screw & captured locknut that gets pressed into the bottom piece.
The 'flat' side of the circle is to avoid the welds:
Here you can see the two-piece design:
And here's where that locknut gets pressed into place - this is designed tight enough so that it truly is a press fit - again, just trying to make it easy to install from the top.
This was a fun & quick side project that took WAY longer to get to @QsLC75 than it should have due to USPS, hah. I swear, the post office here in Indiana is struggling these days.
This was a simple 2-piece design - the lower piece gets pulled up to spread the 'tabs' on the top piece. These tabs then engage & wedge against the sides of the cutout, locking it all into place. This allows it to be super secure while still allowing you to pull it out easily in the future. It's just a stainless steel M3 screw & captured locknut that gets pressed into the bottom piece.
The 'flat' side of the circle is to avoid the welds:
Here you can see the two-piece design:
And here's where that locknut gets pressed into place - this is designed tight enough so that it truly is a press fit - again, just trying to make it easy to install from the top.
This was a fun & quick side project that took WAY longer to get to @QsLC75 than it should have due to USPS, hah. I swear, the post office here in Indiana is struggling these days.
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- #40
I've been playing around with a different material recently - I've been using ASA, but recently tried out some ASA + glass fiber material. I think the surface finish looks stunning! In real life it's even harder to see any discernable layer lines, even at 0.3mm layer heights (thicker layers = stronger parts). Printed parts have a really nice 'textured' look to them and are a little less glossy, both of which helps present more of an 'OEM' style look. I dig it!
It's definitely stiffer than 'normal' ASA as well - so as long as I don't need something to flex, I think this is going to be my go-to material in the future! Below is one of the ashtray RAM mounts I make and sell - I recently added a center hole for a 1/4-20" stud (and hexagonal recess on the backside for the nut) to allow you to attached the stud-mount RAM balls to it.
It's definitely stiffer than 'normal' ASA as well - so as long as I don't need something to flex, I think this is going to be my go-to material in the future! Below is one of the ashtray RAM mounts I make and sell - I recently added a center hole for a 1/4-20" stud (and hexagonal recess on the backside for the nut) to allow you to attached the stud-mount RAM balls to it.
