Outback Solutions (ARB) Drawer Install and Review 2011

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Odyseuss said:
I use bungee cargo nets. They are cheap and easy to find in a variety of sizes. It's easier if you don't need a cage IMO.
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I don't think bungees would work for my setup. I'm usually packed pretty tight so I need something to keep everything in its place. Really just from not falling behind the fridge.
 
MSA is a reputable company in Australia. I have one of their rear wheel bins and have been happy with the quality. The fridge barrier is new though and the company has only recently entered the US market.
 
hoser said:
MSA is a reputable company in Australia. I have one of their rear wheel bins and have been happy with the quality. The fridge barrier is new though and the company has only recently entered the US market.
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Good to know thanks. I emailed them to see if I can find a vendor here. It shows 2 companies on the US website but they didn't have the barrier, or any items for that matter, from MSA.
 
hoser said:
Buy or build something like this:
Products - MSA 4x4 Accessories

MSA 4x4 USA — Drop Slides, Seat Covers, and 4x4 Accessories
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I could potentially make something like that but all the possible variables in application would have some challenges.

I simply use a large action packer next to my fridge when traveling with a full cargo area. It prevents things from falling behind the fridge and unlike a duffle it's pretty waterproof outside the truck and makes a small table for the boy. Soft items then go to the side of that.
 
I use the bungee net thing... it works great when first leaving the driveway, then deteriorates as the trip gets longer. But I still prefer that over another steel cage thing. I'm trying to just take less stuff. :meh:
 
Corbet said:
I could potentially make something like that but all the possible variables in application would have some challenges.

I simply use a large action packer next to my fridge when traveling with a full cargo area. It prevents things from falling behind the fridge and unlike a duffle it's pretty waterproof outside the truck and makes a small table for the boy. Soft items then go to the side of that.
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Yea that's what I have now is the action packers. I have a large one and two smalls. They work good for a day or two trip. If I want to go on a longer run it gets over packed.

nakman said:
I use the bungee net thing... it works great when first leaving the driveway, then deteriorates as the trip gets longer. But I still prefer that over another steel cage thing. I'm trying to just take less stuff. :meh:
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I try to take less but the old lady makes that hard. When I subtract stuff she thinks she can just fill it back up with more of her stuff then lol. I give her one bag and say that's all you can take. She fills it and says ok. I pack it in the vehicle. We get ready to leave and she's carrying 3 more bags on her shoulders and says it just small stuff. So I gave up and just trying to make the rig work for what we pack.
 
An easy solution for that would be to add some closed cell foam and mass-loaded vinyl in place of the carpet. It would provide a better sound barrier than the carpet could ever do
 
I've read of someone removing the Carpet and then regretting it. Most remove the carpet while they have everything out and dynamat the whole thing before putting the drawers in.

I left my carpet in... With the drawers loaded I don't hear any road noise.
 
I just installed a dual drawer system this past weekend. Super easy to install/build, quality and fitment are fantastic!
I kept carpet, added spacers as needed to level out etc...
I scored one fixed top drawer with a Front runner fridge slide off CL and bought a roller top and 100 Series fit kit to finish it off from Slee


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After replacing my stop locks, the locks in the right drawer broke again. Since that didnt seem to take long, I decided to use a spring loaded locking pin to hold the drawers open. This has worked well for quite some time.

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Then one day a piece broke off the stop locks and fell in the way of the drawer opening. This prevented the drawer from opening the last 1/2" so that I couldn't get the pin in. Since I figured that I would have to open it up to get the part out, I ordered another set of stop locks. I figured that I might as well replace them again while I'm in there. When I had it open, I found that that part the lock engages into was also broken. After a quick call to my local retailer, it sounded like these might be a harder part to get and at the very least, they were not in stock available.

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So rather than putting it back together without it working properly and having to take it apart again to repair it, I built the piece out of metal. All in all, it took about an hour(I didn't let the paint dry much) and the lock would hold the drawer on that side alone. So then I installed the other side as well and so far its been working as designed. Well see for how long, as I am still keeping the pin around.

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Ok...those of you with an ARB 50 Quart...Tough to see inside if using the roller top? How about stacking two full length drawers on top of one another. Looks like some have had success; while others not so much???

Is there any configuration that you think is best if you had to purchase them again??

Just trying to get some thoughts and perspectives. Thank you!
 
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CUBuffs said:
Has anyone removed the 3rd row seat belts? Curious if you can remove them for a cleaner install, and (easily) re-install later?
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I removed the third row seatbelts when I installed the drawers. This is what it looks like with the seatbelts removed
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Eventually I'll find a plug for a cleaner look. I kept all the parts, re-installing the seatbelts won't be a problem if I ever go that way.
 
chrisratz said:
I removed the third row seatbelts when I installed the drawers. This is what it looks like with the seatbelts removedView attachment 1264631


Eventually I'll find a plug for a cleaner look. I kept all the parts, re-installing the seatbelts won't be a problem if I ever go that way.
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Thanks! If I recall... there was a plug available from Toyota for the 80 series..
 
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