NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #21
Well you had to blow my ‘I got this’ bubble up didn’t you?
Options for Calipers and Drums (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Lots of good advice in this thread, Fel. Lots of knowledgeable Mudders looking out for you.
Definitely try to separate these tasks into bite sized chunks. Expect to not be able to drive the truck for several weeks. It always takes longer than expected and there's always a part you didn't know you needed that stops progress.
You're smart to stay with stock calipers. The 4 runner caliper upgrade is not worth the time or expense. I've done it on 2 trucks and it makes no difference regardless of master. This is math, not just experience. Stock calipers are capable of locking the wheel. No additional force could possibly improve braking once the wheel has stopped. The ratio of master piston to caliper piston doesn't change if you change the master and caliper at the same time. The rotor mass is the week link to heat capacity before warping and dissipation rate and it's not changeable without a slew of additional, very expensive changes.
The 4 runner booster IS a great upgrade for when you're forced to replace it.
Wear a real respirator when working on the brakes, especially the drums where you're hammering while extracting and it can't be prayed with a mist of water like the disks. You just might have original shoes in the back which might still be asbestos. Even if they aren't, new brake dust is still very bad for you. It settles on your clothes and comes inside with them, transferring to towels and laundry and exposing your son.
I've probably got a set of take off calipers if you want them. I just moved so it might be a trick finding them amongst the garage of boxes but I'll look tomorrow. PM if you're in the area again and have a shopping list.
Definitely try to separate these tasks into bite sized chunks. Expect to not be able to drive the truck for several weeks. It always takes longer than expected and there's always a part you didn't know you needed that stops progress.
You're smart to stay with stock calipers. The 4 runner caliper upgrade is not worth the time or expense. I've done it on 2 trucks and it makes no difference regardless of master. This is math, not just experience. Stock calipers are capable of locking the wheel. No additional force could possibly improve braking once the wheel has stopped. The ratio of master piston to caliper piston doesn't change if you change the master and caliper at the same time. The rotor mass is the week link to heat capacity before warping and dissipation rate and it's not changeable without a slew of additional, very expensive changes.
The 4 runner booster IS a great upgrade for when you're forced to replace it.
Wear a real respirator when working on the brakes, especially the drums where you're hammering while extracting and it can't be prayed with a mist of water like the disks. You just might have original shoes in the back which might still be asbestos. Even if they aren't, new brake dust is still very bad for you. It settles on your clothes and comes inside with them, transferring to towels and laundry and exposing your son.
I've probably got a set of take off calipers if you want them. I just moved so it might be a trick finding them amongst the garage of boxes but I'll look tomorrow. PM if you're in the area again and have a shopping list.
Last edited:
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks G. Always appreciate seeing you pipe in. Got it on the brake dust esp if what I have in there is stock. I’ll see about borrowing a respirator from a local friend I know who has one. And really, a few weeks?! How much money you got on me? 
And @g-man I just watched a YouTube video I remember seeing previously about those big bolts that hold the hub to the disc. Loosen while the calipers are still on and you’ve got someone to depress the pedal to crack them. Then once they’re loose put the assembly down into a tire and loosen the rest of the way flat on the ground. Looks easy enough. Time will tell.
Thank you all. I put in an order from RA. My gut is feeling that what I ordered doesn’t have pads included tho. And I’ll get the hardware kit from @cruiseroutfit since I have the wires already on route to my dealer. Will give you a call tmrw Kurt.
And @g-man I just watched a YouTube video I remember seeing previously about those big bolts that hold the hub to the disc. Loosen while the calipers are still on and you’ve got someone to depress the pedal to crack them. Then once they’re loose put the assembly down into a tire and loosen the rest of the way flat on the ground. Looks easy enough. Time will tell.
Thank you all. I put in an order from RA. My gut is feeling that what I ordered doesn’t have pads included tho. And I’ll get the hardware kit from @cruiseroutfit since I have the wires already on route to my dealer. Will give you a call tmrw Kurt.
g-man
SILVER Star
g-man
SILVER Star
You can find studs pretty easy. Just carry one of the old ones to a parts store to match up. You'll need to borrow a friends press to put them in or pay a shop to do the work. Don't forget to spray the new rotors with brake cleaner. They come with some sort of film that will gum up your new pads unless you spray them.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #26
Ah thanks for that reminder. I think I checked those out at some point after learning of those bolts a few years back. Handy tool to have. Adding to my list.
I used RAYBESTOS 27729B wheel studs from Rock Auto. Cheap at $1.60 or something. Just pressed them in the other night. Took pretty much all my 20T Harbor Freight press could give. So yeah that's a job for someone with a press. Can't believe a shop would charge you much at all.
We know you got this - but you're not going to believe how many parts orders you end up putting in to get every bit necessary. Hence the "couple weeks" comment. If Juggernaught can find you a set of calipers take him up on the offer and rebuild them on the kitchen table before you do anything else. That way you know the condition of the pistons up front. The pistons are available new if you need to replace a couple. Do not take the caliper halves apart unless you absolutely have to. Not a bad job really. Doing them on the bench ahead of time also allows you the luxury to clean and paint if you choose.
Have fun. It's a great feeling to have a new brake system stem to stern.
g-man
SILVER Star
You'll need these to remove the snap ring.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #29
I’ve got a mixed set of snap ring pliers.
Ordered pads and hardware kit from CO a bit ago.
And contacted a local place that turns drums and rotors. I’ll call them and see if they press in studs too.
Thank you all.
Ordered pads and hardware kit from CO a bit ago.
And contacted a local place that turns drums and rotors. I’ll call them and see if they press in studs too.
Thank you all.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #30
So I forgot I squeezed my ph in under the truck after the second time I washed it down at the car wash and it appears I don’t have the anti rattle plate?
And yes they are ugfugly. And I’m not driving it. The grinding got excessively worse and I wasn’t up for the challenge if someone did something dumb in front of me.
And yes they are ugfugly. And I’m not driving it. The grinding got excessively worse and I wasn’t up for the challenge if someone did something dumb in front of me.
Can't see the rotor but in the 2nd pic your pistons are fully extended so ya it's time. You're probably metal on metal. Not safe.
By anti rattle plate do you mean shim? The anti rattle clip is in there if maybe not installed right.
By anti rattle plate do you mean shim? The anti rattle clip is in there if maybe not installed right.
And if you want to learn from a master search South Main Auto and "brake" on YouTube. So many good tips. According to Eric he has done tens of thousands of brake jobs.
It is funny I find brakes the easiest to do of anything of these trucks or any vehicle, but then years ago it was a specialty of mine.
Get some brake cleaner
On the rears, if you never have had them apart and the OEM hold screw is in place, get either an impact screwdriver or use a punch or chisel to tap it in the correct direction. It works and how i got both of mine off.
From there you either have to back the adjuster off (PITA) or there are 2 screw holes in the drums opposite from one another. You can use a bolt with a ratchet and socket and screw these in until the drum is loose. This is the easiest way to get them off.
Even faster if you have a impact or cordless impact wrench.
Once off, put on some gloves, put on some safety glasses (even better a safety shield), a respirator or at the very least mask, put a drain pan underneath and go to town with the brake clean.
DO NOT use air and blow them out. Brake clean is better and if they are old and asbestos like @Juggernaught suggests then you will be better off.
Get some brake cleaner
On the rears, if you never have had them apart and the OEM hold screw is in place, get either an impact screwdriver or use a punch or chisel to tap it in the correct direction. It works and how i got both of mine off.
From there you either have to back the adjuster off (PITA) or there are 2 screw holes in the drums opposite from one another. You can use a bolt with a ratchet and socket and screw these in until the drum is loose. This is the easiest way to get them off.
Even faster if you have a impact or cordless impact wrench.
Once off, put on some gloves, put on some safety glasses (even better a safety shield), a respirator or at the very least mask, put a drain pan underneath and go to town with the brake clean.
DO NOT use air and blow them out. Brake clean is better and if they are old and asbestos like @Juggernaught suggests then you will be better off.
Grinding you are metal to metal. Those calipers look bad.
If metal to metal then you might as well just replace them. IF they are ground down to far tuning them will not be an option.
For those pins, just use needle nose or pliers that can grab them and pull. You can see how they come out.
As you are looking at replacing the calipers and the disks, then I would just pull them out and not care to much about saving anything. The pistons may have to be compressed a little. You can get fancy with a tool and or a c-clamp and open up the bleed valves. But since they are being replaced, take the brake line of and use a prybar to compress enough to pull them out.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Great pics. Looks like the pad is completely gone.
I would say, rebuilt calipers is a good plan. That rotor may be shot too, so good you're replacing it. The missing anti-rattle clips are no big deal, and you should get new ones with the rebuilt loaded calipers.
I would say, rebuilt calipers is a good plan. That rotor may be shot too, so good you're replacing it. The missing anti-rattle clips are no big deal, and you should get new ones with the rebuilt loaded calipers.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #36
Yeah I figure the pads are gone too. I’ve done my Nissan so I’m not totally clueless. I’ll def check out other videos tho.
Anti rattle thing was a plus sign shaped metal bracket that gets held in place by both long pins that go in horizontally top and bottom of the pad thru the calliper housing.
Anti rattle thing was a plus sign shaped metal bracket that gets held in place by both long pins that go in horizontally top and bottom of the pad thru the calliper housing.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #37
Okay I have a fat stack of the FSM printed next to me, brakes, front axle and rear. I've been reading through it and making a list of tools from HF. To measure the drums I'll need a caliper for over 11 inches, looks like at most 11.7 in. Obviously there are many choices out there... can someone indulge me on a decent set that won't ruin me?
Found a local friend with a pair for me to borrow.
And the front wheel studs... I've found they go from as cheap as almost $1 to nearly $9 each. Again, indulge me please. I would gather most will tell me not to attempt to reuse the old ones once I get them removed; the threads will be compromised from all the beating on to get them out, so I get that... RA has the correct ones but only 4 avail.
Found a local friend with a pair for me to borrow.
And the front wheel studs... I've found they go from as cheap as almost $1 to nearly $9 each. Again, indulge me please. I would gather most will tell me not to attempt to reuse the old ones once I get them removed; the threads will be compromised from all the beating on to get them out, so I get that... RA has the correct ones but only 4 avail.
Last edited:
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #38
Welcome to Sears.com
Last edited:
If you use a press to remove the studs (take it to any competent shop and have them remove and mount the new disk) you probably won't need to replace them. If you do replace them; length matters. If you have or want to run alloy wheels, an extra 1/4 to 3/8" will have better thread engagement. The last time I tried to buy a stud from Toyota, they were shorter than original (classic part number reduction substitution with a lessor product) and ridiculously expensive. There is a lot of crap hardware circulating so be careful of where you source them.
Keep your old studs to have trail spares. If you must do it yourself, a sacrificial lug nut to pound on will probably preserve the thread enough to reuse them. Don't use a nut to draw them through with tension. This will work but leaves the stud stretched, weak, and prone to breaking later.
Keep your old studs to have trail spares. If you must do it yourself, a sacrificial lug nut to pound on will probably preserve the thread enough to reuse them. Don't use a nut to draw them through with tension. This will work but leaves the stud stretched, weak, and prone to breaking later.
^^^ That is all good advice.
