Once again..debate on the right oil for 1HD-T and other old Toyota diesel engines.

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This thread is awesome, but having a really hard time tracking all the back and forth! Could anyone help summarize some of the advice for me? Also for reference, this thread shows up first on google for "1HD-T oil".

What I'm running now is Shell Rotella T5 10W-30...should I really switch to fully synthetic t6 5W-40 if I don't care about cost? I had my diesel mechanic explicitly tell me not to run 5W-40, but he might not have known what he was talking about.
 
I really have no idea why the mechanic said that. I think he said it was too heavy? He did do some really serious work replacing a crack cylinder head that's held up well, so I trust him somewhat, but he also put a bunch of off-brand generic filters instead of OEM into my rig so getting mixed signals on his trustworthy. If this forum of 'yota heads can't think of a reason why 5W-40 is bad I'll switch back to that.
 
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It all depends on the temps you are on.
What can kill an oil is an extremely hot or cold condition.
Too cold = Higher Viscosity = More resistant to flow = Might not be able to reach some parts at the correct time = wear = less engine life.
Too hot = Oil too thin = Loses lubrication properties = less lubrication = wear = less engine life.

You have to play with the oil and find which suits better your engine.

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You are in San Francisco where average temp is 14°C (57°F), 15w40 wont brake your engine as your mechanic says. You can change it and verify oil pressure and fuel consumption. If you think your seals and gaskets are in good shape try using full synthetic. If I were you Ill start with 10w40.

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I found that mine consumes less using synthetic, is minimal but hey is something! Plus it might help the engine perform softly huh?
 
What I'm running now is Shell Rotella T5 10W-30

I would get something heavier for California. I run 20-50 and the climate is similar to southern Calfornia. I'm not convinced its vital to run synth in an old diesel. Toyota diesels and many others were getting half million klms on mineral oil . The engines are not high precision with close tolerances.
I think driving characteristics play a far larger role than oil.
 
I would get something heavier for California. I run 20-50 and the climate is similar to southern Calfornia. I'm not convinced its vital to run synth in an old diesel. Toyota diesels and many others were getting half million klms on mineral oil . The engines are not high precision with close tolerances.
I think driving characteristics play a far larger role than oil.

Its not necessary to run synthetics of course, I have used mineral on my Bj40 and its 700K kms and it keeps running like a champ (change every 5000km).
And yes I agree, the enemy of every engine is his owner's foot.
 
So guys,

I'm getting ready to change my oil again. I have been running Rotella T6 5w-40 in the winter. I glanced at this thread again but am not sure...

Do you guys stay with 5W-40 for summer or do you suggest 15w-40?
 
So guys,

I'm getting ready to change my oil again. I have been running Rotella T6 5w-40 in the winter. I glanced at this thread again but am not sure...

Do you guys stay with 5W-40 for summer or do you suggest 15w-40?

I run the Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic all year, it makes a big difference for cold weather starting, and should provide the same hot weather protection as 15w40, this way I'm not having to mess with multiple grades of oil, and don't get caught with the heavier oil in the fall when the temps drop as I'm doing oil changes every 10K kms or 2X a year on average.
 
I run the Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic all year, it makes a big difference for cold weather starting, and should provide the same hot weather protection as 15w40, this way I'm not having to mess with multiple grades of oil, and don't get caught with the heavier oil in the fall when the temps drop as I'm doing oil changes every 10K kms or 2X a year on average.
I do the same.

Used to switch out to 15w40 in the summer, but it's much simpler to run the 5w40 year round (results in fewer oil changes as I don't put on enough km to warrant 2 oil changes/year) and the 5w40 is the same viscosity as the 15w40 at operating temp. My Audi also uses the same oil so I can buy in bulk. Win-win-win.
 
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Thanks guys. That's what I figured, but wanted to be sure. Wifey grabbed some 5w-40 T6 for me today, so I'll change it this afternoon! (As long as this snow stops before I leave work!)
 
Thanks guys. That's what I figured, but wanted to be sure. Wifey grabbed some 5w-40 T6 for me today, so I'll change it this afternoon! (As long as this snow stops before I leave work!)
most good oils pass jaso test

rotella t6 passes all
OEM Specifications and Approvals for Shell ROTELLA® T6 full synthetic heavy duty engine oil.
API: CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4.
ACEA E9; JASO DH-2; Cummins CES 20086; Volvo VDS-4.5; Detroit Fluid Specification (DFS) 93K222, Caterpillar ECF-2/ECF-3, MAN M3575, JASO MA/MA2, Allison TES 439, MB-Approval 228.31.
 
Personally I run 20w-50 in my 3B and 2L, though more commonly I run Penrite HPR 20w-60 as it's the only quality oil in that viscosity range I can get here.

It's pretty hot here and I drive a lot of sand and sand dunes so I figure the oil probably gets hotter than normal and being both non turbo they're exposed to high EGTs for long periods. Also the motors both have 3xx'xxxkms on them so something a little thicker can't hurt, all the pictures I've seen of disintegrated cam bearings in 3Bs are in the back of my mind.

I have considered changing to 15w-40 for winter but I often go up north where the temperatures are hot and the car is worked pretty hard.
 
Personally I run 20w-50 in my 3B and 2L, though more commonly I run Penrite HPR 20w-60 as it's the only quality oil in that viscosity range I can get here.

It's pretty hot here and I drive a lot of sand and sand dunes so I figure the oil probably gets hotter than normal and being both non turbo they're exposed to high EGTs for long periods. Also the motors both have 3xx'xxxkms on them so something a little thicker can't hurt, all the pictures I've seen of disintegrated cam bearings in 3Bs are in the back of my mind.

I have considered changing to 15w-40 for winter but I often go up north where the temperatures are hot and the car is worked pretty hard.

Yes, on a really hot day 20-50 or even 20-60 gets really thin if its been working hard in the sand dunes at low speeds.
Toyota Australia recommend 20-50 for older type IDI diesels
 
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or even Toyota Branded 15W-40
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The only reason to run 15W40 is it's cheaper. 10W40 or even 5W40 performs the same at high temps but better at low.

Buying Toyota branded oil is as necessary as buying Toyota branded soap.
 
These threads really are a bit over the top.

Everytime these threads come up I post the same thing. The spec for 1HDT oil is Jaso DH-1. This is an ancient spec from 30 years ago. Any modern diesel oil will easily meet or exceed this spec. Personally I run whatever is on special, or Gulf Western Top Dog XDO (because that's usually cheap). I mostly run 15w-40 as that's what seems to be the most readily available in mineral diesel oils here in NZ. chances are for most applications that's perfectly fine and balances cost/performance.

 
These threads really are a bit over the top.

Everytime these threads come up I post the same thing. The spec for 1HDT oil is Jaso DH-1. This is an ancient spec from 30 years ago. Any modern diesel oil will easily meet or exceed this spec. Personally I run whatever is on special, or Gulf Western Top Dog XDO (because that's usually cheap). I mostly run 15w-40 as that's what seems to be the most readily available in mineral diesel oils here in NZ. chances are for most applications that's perfectly fine and balances cost/performance.


Yes but you're in Auckland where frost is unheard of so 15w40 is fine.
As you get colder you need an oil that flows better in the cold.

On my Dmax the dealer put 15W40 in it during a service and I lost about 8% fuel economy (short running over winter). Went back to 5W30 and it all came back.
 

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