Once again..debate on the right oil for 1HD-T and other old Toyota diesel engines.

[Oldtoy74]

In the oil game, it's best to keep it simple and follow specs and service intervals, if you choose outside of these 2 basic rules, it's best to conduct oil analysis with each drain and understand what your reading on results. Fairy dust in one oil for extended HD applications does not always transfer benefits to smaller diesel donks, ( soot control, detergents, viscosity index etc) these are to-appeal for the big boys on the road, off-road, , let the brains trust OEM let you know what's best for their donks, they designed and built it. I read earlier someone is using low saps in the cruiser donk, fine example of thinking too much!!

 

[crushers]

an engine doesn't care what oil is in it, the important item is to have some in there.
change the oil every 5K and you will not have any issues.
once you start playing the "longer term" oil change then it becomes more of a risk.
Rotella T semi is great oil
i have gone back to cheap oil and high end filter and staying with the 5K changes.

in the end, it is your truck and your decision on what you want to run and how long.
just cause it is on the net, doesn't mean it works.

 

[Malahki]

I've been using Rottella T 15w40 exclusively on my Bj74 for the last 5 years. My interest in synthetic or synthetic blends has zero to do with extended oil change intervals. It is strictly to do with extreme cold winter starts.

In the past winters I have always relied on my circulating coolant heater and electric oil pan heater. This winter I won't always have access to an electrical outlet. So I am installing a webasto coolant heater and trying to figure put what the best type and weight of oil would be for those -30*C start ups??

I am curious Crushers what are you running in the winter?

 

[Douglas S]

I run Rotella 5w40 in the winter here (and winter here is really cold).

 

[Oldtoy74]

an engine doesn't care what oil is in it, the important item is to have some in there.
change the oil every 5K and you will not have any issues.
once you start playing the "longer term" oil change then it becomes more of a risk.
Rotella T semi is great oil
i have gone back to cheap oil and high end filter and staying with the 5K changes.

in the end, it is your truck and your decision on what you want to run and how long.
just cause it is on the net, doesn't mean it works.

That's a big call, an engine doesn't care what oil is it, I understand what you mean, as the majority of oils these days exceed the spec that required for these old donks, (even petrol oils with diesel spec). The higher spec of oil indicates the harder the oil can work in handling soot, keeping wear rates minimal, extending drains, heat loss etc, although as these are designed for high powered HD CAT, Cummins, and assorted jap & euro engines, which are under extreme load majority of working life, if you are cruising around with these oils you will glaze , '.................you read in previous that in order to prevent this you need to drive hard for extended periods on hwy to remove and clean out, ( not for an hour or so, constantly) on the other hand a synthetic is generally more suited to cold start up due to the winter viscosity eg 5/40 and where some of you are exposed to very cold, this is a good idea, but in general synthetics are for highly stressed engines where all the fairy dust is burnt off and removed, if you cruise with this oil you are paying for premium product where you the benefits compared to a standard mineral base is minimal my comments are to share not to judge

 

[crushers]

when i lived in Calgary i ran 0/30 RotellaT semi
down here i just run dino ... it doesn't get that cold.
if it did then i would plug it in for a while.

 

[markthemenace]

Run 15w-40
I did a big oil analysis test

I retract all my other 10w-30 info

Does that include the oil change at 10,000 km (6 months)? I always thought oil changes needed to be 8,000 km (5,000 miles) and a filter change at the same time.

I have my original Toyota Manual. I'll take a couple of pictures of the oil change page and post it up when I get home today.

FWIW, I use Delo, Rotella or plain old Supertech...whatever's on sale, and change the oil religiously before it hits the 8k mark. Usually, I get impatient and change it at the 5,000 km mark, but that's only because my Merc would already have seen 8,000 km by the time the cruiser hits 4,000 km.

 

[ForealBoreal]

Does that include the oil change at 10,000 km (6 months)? I always thought oil changes needed to be 8,000 km (5,000 miles) and a filter change at the same time. I have my original Toyota Manual. I'll take a couple of pictures of the oil change page and post it up when I get home today. FWIW, I use Delo, Rotella or plain old Supertech...whatever's on sale, and change the oil religiously before it hits the 8k mark. Usually, I get impatient and change it at the 5,000 km mark, but that's only because my Merc would already have seen 8,000 km by the time the cruiser hits 4,000 km.

I was always told 5000km intervals unless running a synthetic.

5000 is too because it's always the same interval on your odometer. Easy reminder.

I always run rotella t 15w-40 because it's easy to get and has proved to do the job at that service interval.

I may try rotella t6 5-40w just for the hell of it next oil change for the winter months.

 

[markthemenace]

OK, here's what the owners' manual says for my 1987 HJ60.
Normal Service Interval

SEVERE Service Interval

Oil VISCOSITY

And again in a different page of the manual

Now I don't know about you guys, but a 12-month interval between oil filter changes strikes me as kinda excessive no!!?? Then again, THIS is what the owners manual states. I would hasten to add that oil quality has definitely become much much better since 1987 when this manual was printed; so it appears that maybe we are really hemming and hawing too much over this? Perhaps the way Toyoto designed these beasts, they were meant to run and run for 12 months without an oil filter change? And maybe that's why they're so bloody huge?

Has anyone done an oil analysis on an extended filter change?

I don't think many of us use our Cruisers in a manner that requires us to follow the "severe" standard, but who knows!

And yes, check out the oil viscosity recommendations. All I can think of is, perhaps we're applying standards of today's newer diesels (15W40) to our old tech tractors. Can one even find 10w30 anymore?

 

[BCR4619]

Yup Chevron sells Dino Dello 400 10w-30

 

[Tapage]

I wish I could have something like 10-50 Diesei Oil ..

 

[ledgend80]

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_fuel_type=3&id_products=8

 

[BCR4619]

Looking through my HDJ81 owners manual and found this.

I don't know the difference in the two charts, the bottom must be 1HDT? Anyone know what it says with the 10-30 at the bottom?

 

[tornio]

hi guys , no time to explain all I would tell you (dammned job !! HI) , off course when an old engine is hot and running strong if the oil
is old ,"worn" or unsuitable it consumes oil .

search (looking oil data sheet ) who have a better viscosity at hot temperature

datasheet normally show the viscosity at 40° C end at 100° C more Cst measured at 100°C the better because the oil film is stronger

bear in mind that not only the change of viscosity according to the temperature is important but also the balancement of additives play a big
role especially when an engine eats the oil ...

off course there are a lot of variables conditions like cold stat ecc ecc but this is only an answer to the first post....


my experience :


before i used mobil delvac mx 15w40 ,great cvl oil (one of the best in my opinion) but when engine was hot the oil pressure went down a lot... so after a little search i tried MOBIL DEVAC SUPER 1400 15w40
who has an Higher Cst at 100° C than DELVAC MX and now the pressure is higher when hot.
I love technical discusion but now I really have no time....

see you soon

 

[Tapage]

I'm relying in AMS oil Marine 15W-40 and it's very stable ( oil pressure wise ) even with hot dry season down where ( over 100°F temps )

SAE 15W-40 Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil

 

[MonsterCruiser]

I haven't read through this whole thread, but I'll just chime in that I'm running Rotella 5w40 and I change every 10k kms (or about 6 months) in my 1HD-T. I used to run 15w40 and change at 5k kms, but I've been driving more the past couple of years and with OEM filters for the 1HD-T being expensive I decided to run the 5w40 so I didn't have to change my oil so often and actually save a bit of money as well.

I was a bit nervous at first with the longer interval, but I had the UOA done a few times and the oil was still good at 10k kms. I could probably run it even longer, but I'm not going to try and push any further than 10k kms. Over a 10k km oil interval I don't even have to top up my oil. Presently at 232,000 kms.

 

[gerg]

These engines should run an external oil cooler.

 

[roscoFJ73]

These engines should run an external oil cooler.

Why is that necessary? If its a hot climate, run a thicker oil.

 

[gerg]

Cavitation and oil temps are closely related. I showed pics of 1hdt damaged bearings to a fluid dynamics engineer I know and the first thing he said was.....wait for it.... add an external oil cooler. Get the fluid well below the vaporization point after the bearing is done with it. Another buddy is a ship engineer and they run their dry sump oil system at 50C. These engines are probably running more than double that on a good day. Sad thing is running heavier weight oil will increase the shear friction within the bearing itself and could end up exaggerating the problem by increasing the bearing temps.

I guess the short version is no one has a freaken clue what's causing this damage or how to address it and adding an external cooler will keep your oil in better shape for a longer and will decrease the likely hood of bearing cavitation. There is no drawback other than you have to put it on. A samwich adaptor on the oil filter as a super easy mod.

Lots of folks will likely argue with the cavitation conclusion, but who can say for sure? Endless talk about which oil to use wount solve anything. It's not an oil problem, it's a design issue.

 

[Tapage]

For reference hottest engine oil temp I've ever seen in my 1HD-T down here ( 100°F day and 90% humidity ) it's about 146 - 148°F