OME stock height replacement or 2.5" lift

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I debated this as well. I settled with OME stock height with 33's. When I'm due for tires I would like to add 1" spacers all around and go 35". I think if you decide on 2.5" you will wish you had gone 4". If 4", wishing for 6". I'm staying with what allows clearance into my garage opening without removing my load bars.
 
I debated this as well. I settled with OME stock height with 33's. When I'm due for tires I would like to add 1" spacers all around and go 35". I think if you decide on 2.5" you will wish you had gone 4". If 4", wishing for 6". I'm staying with what allows clearance into my garage opening without removing my load bars.

this is what I am planing on doing for my 1991 cruiser. do you have any photos??
 
this is what I am planing on doing for my 1991 cruiser. do you have any photos??
Its the best I have, currently.

IMG_6497.webp


IMG_6499.webp
 
I think if you decide on 2.5" you will wish you had gone 4". If 4", wishing for 6".
For those Land Cruiser owners who are new to this, it's not as simple as just changing springs when you go to a 4, or 6 inch lift. Along with the cost of new springs you'd better plan on having extra money available to spend on DC drive shafts due to different drive shaft angles after you've completed the lift.

Plus longer brake lines to each caliper, along with a caster plate setup up of some kind so you don't get the dreaded death wobble if you plan on driving your Land Cruiser faster then 50 MPH.

Oh, i almost forgot one more thing you'll need to deal with, and that is adjusting, or removing all together your rear brake load sensing proportioning valve.

The issues i listed above are the main reason why i decided to go with the simpler, and MUCH less expensive stock height OME spring setup.
 
For those Land Cruiser owners who are new to this, it's not as simple as just changing springs when you go to a 4, or 6 inch lift. Along with the cost of new springs you'd better plan on having extra money available to spend on DC drive shafts due to different drive shaft angles after you've completed the lift.

Plus longer brake lines to each caliper, along with a caster plate setup up of some kind so you don't get the dreaded death wobble if you plan on driving your Land Cruiser faster then 50 MPH.

Oh, i almost forgot one more thing you'll need to deal with, and that is adjusting, or removing all together your rear brake load sensing proportioning valve.

The issues i listed above are the main reason why i decided to go with the simpler, and MUCH less expensive stock height OME spring setup.
All great and valid points. I will say that even after deciding on the stock height springs my truck required castor correction. I spent a year playing with different degrees of toe in, adjusting the play in the steering gear box, and a couple of trips to the alignment shop where the printout showed negative castor. "That can't be! I'm at stock height!". I finally installed castor correction plates last weekend and I'm pretty irritated I didn't do this a long time ago. Now my thought is, now that I have castor correction I should go a little higher with my lift. But you're right @Rifleman. The higher the lift, the more modifications required to make the truck right. Every truck is unique and may require adjustments and extras others didn't need.
 
All great and valid points. I will say that even after deciding on the stock height springs my truck required castor correction.
SNIP...Every truck is unique and may require adjustments and extras others didn't need.

This is rather unusual, as most stock height installs don't lead to the need for further compensatory adjustments. Still, it's worth keeping in mind as a possiblity.
 
I went OME stock height which gives you about 0.75” or so of lift with no issues. I went to 285 BFGs (33”) at the same time. Has driven perfect for the last 7 years or so.

it should be easy for me to find 33s because my truck has the old school stock 15 inch rims. how does the ride compare to the stock suspension?
 
it should be easy for me to find 33s because my truck has the old school stock 15 inch rims. how does the ride compare to the stock suspension?
Ride is great on smooth roads but a bit more harsh than stock over rough pavement. Then again, I run 60 psi tire pressure on the road. Why? Its good for a 1/2mpg improvement. That's nearly 4% fuel efficiency gains! Offroad after airing down is where the suspension upgrade shines.
 
Twinair you may be running way to much air pressure for the street, below is a link to a thread that has a section by LandCruiserPhil that outlines a simple way for you to check to see if the 60 PSI your running is to high, or just right.

Here is a link to a Mud member who lists what his before and after ride heights were when he change over to stock height OME springs.
OME 861/862 Stock Height Replacement Measurement

And here's a link to my thread with before, and after height measurements when i install stock height OME springs on my truck.

Here is a link to the adjustment that are needed on the LSPV when you install the OME 2.5 inch lift.

And here's another thread on adjusting the LSPV.
 
Older thread, I know. But stuck in the middle here. For those of you that have put spacers, where'd you get them?
 
I used the Man-A-Fre spacers with 2” coils before going to 4” coils.

 

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