Older than dirt - refreshing a ‘64 FJ40 FST (2 Viewers)

[oregon fj]

Pretty sure my Kyosan Denki fuel pump is original, as it has the “hand priming” lever. But the code isn’t stamped on top, I’ll need to wait until I take it off to find that.

The engine block casting date is consistent with the carb date, though. Code is 30112, or January 12, 1963.

Are there date codes on the axles, or any body or electrical parts? So far all I know for sure is that my complete engine was probably built in early ‘63, don’t know about the rest of the truck.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Back of the speedo should have month and year.

 

[oregon fj]

Back of the speedo should have month and year.

Yeah, I figured it would. Not ready to yank the cluster right now, but will look at that later when I do.

 

[65swb45]

Pretty sure my Kyosan Denki fuel pump is original, as it has the “hand priming” lever. But the code isn’t stamped on top, I’ll need to wait until I take it off to find that.

The engine block casting date is consistent with the carb date, though. Code is 30112, or January 12, 1963.

Are there date codes on the axles, or any body or electrical parts? So far all I know for sure is that my complete engine was probably built in early ‘63, don’t know about the rest of the truck.

If you pull the rear diff cover (to change the rear axle seals...hint) the ring gear should have a date code.

 

[oregon fj]

If you pull the rear diff cover (to change the rear axle seals...hint) the ring gear should have a date code.

That will happen later, too. Seals will be replaced when I go through the brakes, which will be shortly after I get it running again.

 

[oregon fj]

On a different topic, the 40 is a hit with my neighbors. The 5 year old boy next door likes to rap his knuckles on the 16 gauge tub and declare that it is “good metal”. His dad has wanted a 40 for years, but knows his wife doesn’t think it’s a good rig for a family man. The local police lieutenant a couple houses down loves it, and has claimed dibs on first offer when I decide to sell it. In fact she has requested that I paint it “that light blue that they used back in those days.”

Which brings me to the point. The truck was originally “bandaid” color. I just can’t see painting it that color again, too pink.

Of course, I can’t recall that I’ve seen any good pictures of bandaid 40s. Nor have I ever seen a color in any of the charts or chip pages that has that color. I know it’s not particularly rare, but like me, most people don’t seem to want to keep it.

So I’m trying to think what color I might want to go with when I get to that point. I do want it to be obviously vintage, so the darker colors like Seminole Red or Judson Green are out, they look a bit to ‘recent’ to me. Horizon Blue is a possibility, as is Sulphur Yellow. One of the Beige colors would probably work to. Will want it to look good with Coral seats and a tan top, of course. Any thoughts?

 

[tucker74]

Any thoughts?

Sea Foam (spring green)

 

[oregon fj]

Sea Foam (spring green)

Hmmm. Not one of my faves, but definitely possible. Gotta admit it looks way vintage.

 

[wesintl]

Nice early 40.

The nice thing about the early is no paint code was listed so you don't feel bad repainting. On the flip side the bandaid color was most likely sundune white which is more of a tan color. 50 years of fade will make it look like something that isn't that great. There are plenty of thread with treeroot and myself with paint chips and codes to help if you are keeping it a period color but i wouldn't overlook the original color.

 

[Old Red]

Page 3, post #50 is where the "band-aid" moniker could originate: Paint Codes

To this day I am not sure anyone knows which official Toyota color corresponds to "band-aid" with certainty, which probably accounts for why the nickname endures. Its official name is still a matter of some debate, it appears.

Whatever it is called, I like the color. But to my mind, whether a person likes the original color or not is beside the point---assuming that point is to restore a vehicle back to its original factory condition. Original is original regardless of one's personal taste, right?

Now if you don't care about "pure" originality then of course you are anticipating that whoever buys your restoration will not care either. And based on your neighbor's comment about changing the color, that indifference toward pure originality is no impediment in the marketplace. Really, this whole color thing comes down to whether you want to claim fidelity with a full-on factory restoration, or whether you are comfortable marketing the end result of your restoration as something other than that.

Consider, though, that if you do change the color you will be relying on someone else's interpretation of a paint formula based on what physical object, a color chart on the Internet? Whereas if you keep the original color you will maintain absolute control over the final product by comparing your surviving original paint with any mixed samples during the restoration until you ultimately sign-off on the "perfect" match.

Nothing says vintage more than 54-year-old original paint. Long live "band-aid!"

(photo credit "cppilot")

 

[nuclearlemon]

i also like the band-aid. as long as you match it to a section that's below sunfade and still tan (i used the inside of the kick panel door and under the fuel tank on my 1962, so not new, judson green 40 )

 

[oregon fj]

I’m not wedded to 100% originality. My goal is more like a very close interpretation of an original survivor. I want most details to look correct, but if some things are replacement, repro or period correct, I’m ok with that. It should be nice enough that people will like it, but not so pristine and museum-like that it won’t be driven.

So I’m definitely not opposed to using a different, but still correct color. After all, my plan right now is to have all the painted parts dipped, so there would be no remaining original paint to show up in a seam or under a chip and cheapen the effect.

On the other hand, if that 45 is what bandaid is supposed to look like, I could live with that. I’ve looked at several spots on mine that should never have seen daylight, and it all looks pink to me.

 

[Old Red]

Same truck, different light.

Is this more your shade of "band-aid"

 

[oregon fj]

Same truck, different light.

Is this more your shade of "band-aid"

That is closer to what I see. But bearing in in mind that I only see small sections where the several repaints have chipped away, mine seems even pinker than that, more like this shot.

 

[Old Red]

Well, fine then. Not sure what you have against painting your truck the color of artificial flesh. But, whatever.

 

[pardion]

Well, fine then. Not sure what you have against painting your truck the color of artificial flesh. But, whatever.

Flesh color can be from white to black, No flesh crayons anymore or flesh Testors paint to paint your people.

 

[oregon fj]

If my bandaid paint was intact and not covered with 3-4 later cheap coats of other color paint, and would look even close to as good as the paint on that 45, no way I’d change it. But no one who has seen the exposed bandaid bits has found that attractive, no one at all.

Since I’m going to have to strip this thing bare inside and out, I can’t see not taking advantage of that to change to a different factory color.

 

[middlecalf]

Are you seeing any evidence of another color under everything? I’m wondering about primer. On both my rigs (see tag) I see a similar flat red/orange/rust color under other paint that I was assuming original primer. Completely uneducated guess though.

 

[nuclearlemon]

I’m wondering about primer. On both my rigs (see tag) I see a similar flat red/orange/rust color under other paint that I was assuming original primer. .

yes, that should be the primer.

 

[oregon fj]

Not much visible primer on mine. Based on paint archeology and the story I was told about the original owner, I suspect the buyer bought the rig in a color he didn’t care for to get one with a winch. And it looks like he had it crudely painted almost immediately. If I could strip only the later coats and leave the factory paint, it might be salvageable on most of the exterior. The interior probably less so.