Older than dirt - refreshing a ‘64 FJ40 FST
- Thread starter oregon fj
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Unless some kind soul wants to hook you up with running boards from their secret stash, be prepared for a search, a wait, and likely a several hundred dollar price tag if you can find them in ready-to-use condition. They don't come for sale often. A handful of us are already looking for them. And no one currently is making them.
You will want the earliest (1958-1964/65) and the shortest style Land Cruiser running boards made. No picture at hand for quick reference. But from around '65 or '66 until whatever year they were longer. You don't want those.
You have an outstanding cruiser there. All the best.
You will want the earliest (1958-1964/65) and the shortest style Land Cruiser running boards made. No picture at hand for quick reference. But from around '65 or '66 until whatever year they were longer. You don't want those.
You have an outstanding cruiser there. All the best.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #24
Well, as I prepare to bring it home (probably tomorrow), I am thinking about the end goal. Considering its obvious originality, I’m a little torn on whether to do a full, driver-quality refresh with paint and all, or do a full mechanical refresh and try to retain the 54 years of ‘patina’ and use. Part of me wants to make it really nice and fresh looking, but a small voice keeps whispering about the wear and tear of the years being something that should be cherished, not erased.
As part of my decision, I should be totally upfront that I do not intend to keep the rig when I am done with it. Refreshing/restoring cars and trucks is my hobby, but I don’t keep them. I do it for recreation, not to make a living (retired now). So I don’t need to make a profit, but I try to at least break even when I sell it. Lose too much of my hobby funds and I won’t be able to do any more.
So deciding on how to proceed (full restore or mechanical refresh) is not totally about my wants, but more about what a potential buyer might want. I’m leaning toward the full refresh as being the most appealing to buyers later, but still not sure. Anyone want to share their thoughts on this?
As part of my decision, I should be totally upfront that I do not intend to keep the rig when I am done with it. Refreshing/restoring cars and trucks is my hobby, but I don’t keep them. I do it for recreation, not to make a living (retired now). So I don’t need to make a profit, but I try to at least break even when I sell it. Lose too much of my hobby funds and I won’t be able to do any more.
So deciding on how to proceed (full restore or mechanical refresh) is not totally about my wants, but more about what a potential buyer might want. I’m leaning toward the full refresh as being the most appealing to buyers later, but still not sure. Anyone want to share their thoughts on this?
Last edited:
The determining factor for me is the originality, or not, of the existing paint. If it's original then I'd scrub every square inch, do a full mechanical refresh and see what you can get for it as is. If the paint is not original then I don't see any nostalgia in preserving second-paint-job-patina.
Even if the body paint is original I'd still separate the body from the frame, blast the frame and paint it or powder coat it semi-gloss black. Spotless frames are appealing, and that silver paint on the frame horn is unsightly. Similarly treat the differential housings, the brake parts and steering components and you will have made someone a clean foundation going forward. And the next owner can decide about shiny paint.
Even if the body paint is original I'd still separate the body from the frame, blast the frame and paint it or powder coat it semi-gloss black. Spotless frames are appealing, and that silver paint on the frame horn is unsightly. Similarly treat the differential housings, the brake parts and steering components and you will have made someone a clean foundation going forward. And the next owner can decide about shiny paint.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #26
That’s an excellent point about the current paint. My initial inspection seemed to look like the current white-ish paint is not original. The original appears to have been a pinkish-beige color.
If that is truly the case, then a full refresh is in order. I would have pulled the tub and cleaned up the frame and such in either case.
That pretty much firms up the decision for me. Thanks for pointing that out.
Will still need to decide whether to change to a different early FJ color though. Not sure that the pink-beige is going to do it for me.
If that is truly the case, then a full refresh is in order. I would have pulled the tub and cleaned up the frame and such in either case.
That pretty much firms up the decision for me. Thanks for pointing that out.
Will still need to decide whether to change to a different early FJ color though. Not sure that the pink-beige is going to do it for me.
Some of the early style colors that toyota put on 40s were pretty cool. Check with Classic Cruisers about running boards.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #28
Yeah, I’m going to have to look at the color chips to see what looks good. I’ve seen some comments that make me think the original color was not pinkish originally, but has faded to that. Was probably a more traditional tan color, which I might stick with. I'm currently leaning toward it being Volcanic Beige.
Once I have the truck and all loose parts in my possession, I’ll try to identify what is really missing. Then I’ll begin searching for those.
Last edited:
whitey45
SILVER Star
Pretty sure I might have some short running boards, let me check the stash! Early 40’s did have a color refered by many as the color bandaid! Probably the worst color! Lily white is a very nice early color!
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #30
Initial inspection in the seller’s garage leads me to think that the original color of mine was indeed bandaid. After looking at the color chips and reading several of the paint color threads, I now believe that bandaid colored FJs were originally tan and slowly faded to pinkish. There were reports that tan painted military vehicles in the 50s and 60s had to be repainted every few years because they would turn pink. With that bit of info, I suspect that bandaid colored FJs started as Volcanic Beige. In any case, I think Volcanic would be a good choice for mine. So far. I could change my mind several times before I ever get to painting it.
@whitey45 - If you find any short running boards, shoot me a PM. I’d love to find a pair.
@whitey45 - If you find any short running boards, shoot me a PM. I’d love to find a pair.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #33
I’ve had some other things I needed to tend to today, so exploration time has been limited. The engine - classic cliche - turns easily by hand, not seized. The running boards are indeed missing, as are the defroster vents (assuming an early ‘64 would have come with them). Looks like the truck was first purchased and registered in November ‘63.
The ‘bandaid color’ does appear to be original, and it has had at least 3 (very thin) colors on it since then including the current off-white. The windshield frame & hinges look to be from a different truck, as they appear to be red originally. Similarly, the spare tire carrier looks to have been green when new, so that must have come from a different rig as well.
Definitely two pairs of doors, one that appears to be original, and one pair that is from a later year. (The frames and interior of the later pair are again green.)
I’m also thinking I have an extra seat. I’ve got the rear jump seats (just frames, really), a front 2/3 bench for the passenger side, and then 2 single seats, not just 1 for the driver. Not sure where that extra seat came from.
Welding on the rear frame cross piece looks pretty ugly. I’m not much of a welder but I’m pretty sure I could have done better than that. The rig is peppered with extra holes all over. Will be a lot of patching needed.
The ‘bandaid color’ does appear to be original, and it has had at least 3 (very thin) colors on it since then including the current off-white. The windshield frame & hinges look to be from a different truck, as they appear to be red originally. Similarly, the spare tire carrier looks to have been green when new, so that must have come from a different rig as well.
Definitely two pairs of doors, one that appears to be original, and one pair that is from a later year. (The frames and interior of the later pair are again green.)
I’m also thinking I have an extra seat. I’ve got the rear jump seats (just frames, really), a front 2/3 bench for the passenger side, and then 2 single seats, not just 1 for the driver. Not sure where that extra seat came from.
Welding on the rear frame cross piece looks pretty ugly. I’m not much of a welder but I’m pretty sure I could have done better than that. The rig is peppered with extra holes all over. Will be a lot of patching needed.
Last edited:
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #34
Where to start can be a bit daunting on a project like this, but as my wife tells our friends, “he’s drug home lots worse in the past.” In other words, I’ve been here before.
Next week I’ll do initial engine assessment. For today, I started by doing some basic cleaning and removing any non-factory stuff. So today we lost the cheesy JC Whitney tach, tractor steering knob, gun rack on the dash, unidentifiable vacuum device under the hood, and a whole lot of wires that connect to nothing on either end.
Tried to open the ashtray, the exterior cover came off in my hand and the rest of the bowl crumbled to rust shards. Gonna need to do something there.
Both floor pans are a bit worse than they first appeared, so replacement rather than patching will probably be required. Other than that, the other negative thing found so far is the rear frame cross cap under the sil. The original owner really hocked that up when he added the big drop hitch. Really bad welding, and the whole hitch area flexes badly. That will need repair, if not replacement. See the last picture.
Next week I’ll do initial engine assessment. For today, I started by doing some basic cleaning and removing any non-factory stuff. So today we lost the cheesy JC Whitney tach, tractor steering knob, gun rack on the dash, unidentifiable vacuum device under the hood, and a whole lot of wires that connect to nothing on either end.
Tried to open the ashtray, the exterior cover came off in my hand and the rest of the bowl crumbled to rust shards. Gonna need to do something there.
Both floor pans are a bit worse than they first appeared, so replacement rather than patching will probably be required. Other than that, the other negative thing found so far is the rear frame cross cap under the sil. The original owner really hocked that up when he added the big drop hitch. Really bad welding, and the whole hitch area flexes badly. That will need repair, if not replacement. See the last picture.
Last edited:
whitey45
SILVER Star
That sticker( what remains of it to the left of the pintle hook is an original (TOYOTA) sticker! Guess Toyota wanted folks to know what they were following! Rear sil is in good shape! That is the definition of booger welds right there! A good 4 hrs with many grinding disks!
I have a set of 64 running boards. Pm me if interested.
You have a solid base to go resto with. Wish mine would have been as nice.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
Looks very solid. I am about 90% through my '64 factory soft top rebuild. They come up well but parts can be hard to find especially here in oz for the early ones. At least in the us there are plenty of places that do replacement panels.
You should share the vin. Ours are both FST models in the same factory color in Oregon. Wonder how close they are.
The joy stick coming through the trans tunnel cover for the PTO?
