Older than dirt - refreshing a ‘64 FJ40 FST
- Thread starter oregon fj
- Start date
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oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #122
I’m stoked! Used the new insulator, bolted on the carb, connected fuel, dizzy vacuum, choke cable and throttle. Cranked it until the float bowl filled, pulled the choke knob, and it started right up. No drama at all. Very cool!
Of course, not everything is perfect. I’ve got a loose valve (tick-tick-tick) and the thermostat housing leaks (which I was expecting from the looks of it). But this is a big milestone even so.
Of course, not everything is perfect. I’ve got a loose valve (tick-tick-tick) and the thermostat housing leaks (which I was expecting from the looks of it). But this is a big milestone even so.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #124
Finished the normal tuneup stuff yesterday - set timing, adjusted the valves and the idle mixture. It starts instantly, hot or cold (with just a touch of choke), runs and idles smoothly and cleanly.
Took a last look at the cheap aftermarket oil pressure gauge while I had it running, pressure looked great, so I then removed the gauge. Dash area is now clear of all aftermarket stuff, no extraneous wiring. Just 14(!) unecessary holes to weld up later.
Next steps will be on 2 fronts. One is that I will drain the coolant in prep for new hoses, t-stat and such, as well as a determination on the condition of the two parts of the t-stat housing. Need to decide if the coolant leak there is just rotten gasket, or corroded parts.
Will also continue to work through the hydraulics, both brake and clutch. On the brakes especially, I will be doing the minimum to make it mobile at this time, with final work (such as new hard lines) to be done while I have the tub off the frame.
Building quite a parts list for these areas now, not going to order anything until I think I’ve got the bases well covered to hopefully save on shipping cost.
Took a last look at the cheap aftermarket oil pressure gauge while I had it running, pressure looked great, so I then removed the gauge. Dash area is now clear of all aftermarket stuff, no extraneous wiring. Just 14(!) unecessary holes to weld up later.
Next steps will be on 2 fronts. One is that I will drain the coolant in prep for new hoses, t-stat and such, as well as a determination on the condition of the two parts of the t-stat housing. Need to decide if the coolant leak there is just rotten gasket, or corroded parts.
Will also continue to work through the hydraulics, both brake and clutch. On the brakes especially, I will be doing the minimum to make it mobile at this time, with final work (such as new hard lines) to be done while I have the tub off the frame.
Building quite a parts list for these areas now, not going to order anything until I think I’ve got the bases well covered to hopefully save on shipping cost.
Excellent work! Where’s does the circled vacuum line connect?
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #126
Currently plugged. There was some sort of vacuum valve mounted on the passenger inner fender when I bought it, but as was normal for the original owner, he had partially disconnected it without truly reverting to stock. So the device was present, but disconnected. I removed the device and just capped the tee for now. I will remove the tee at some point, once I get a proper vacuum rated hose to replace it with.
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Oh yeah, I recall that now in an earlier photo. someday you’ll figure out what that device was for. Maybe one of those Porsche’s could use it? 
(poke from a former 944 owner, now I drive really fast vehicles like FJ40s)
(poke from a former 944 owner, now I drive really fast vehicles like FJ40s)
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #129
Got a text yesterday from the guy I bought the rig from. He said the original owner’s family brought him a box of stuff they thought were additional parts for the Land Cruiser. From his description, I’m pretty sure most of it is of no value, except - and this is really timely - it sounds like the original owner had bought new master cylinders for both brakes and clutch. I should have them in my possession in a few days and can see what they really are, but if they are correct for the early truck this was great timing as I’m making my list of needed brake parts now.
Still wish the family might have found the running boards or top frame bows...
Still wish the family might have found the running boards or top frame bows...
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oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #130
Brake inspection has begun. I now know the master cylinder is bad, I opened it up and looked. The bore is noticeably pitted from corrosion. So here’s hoping the master cylinders from the original owner’s family are good and correct. Should have them in hand sometime next week.
Also pulled the LF drum to see what the brakes look like, and here the answer is mostly good. Completely dry inside, all of the leaking fluid on the backing plate and the back side of the wheel is gear oil from the ball and socket. (Will have to address that too, of course. But maybe not right away.) The shoes are dry and quite fresh, very little wear. Drum is smooth, and adjustment seems to be close. The flex hose is not original, has been replaced at some point, looks good. Wheel cylinders are dry, no fluid or corrosion visible under the outer seals. Of course, they may still be seized, but I’m going to reserve judgement until I have a new master installed and can test them.
If all 4 look like this corner, worst I can see is needing to replace all the wheel cylinders.
So far, so good.
Also pulled the LF drum to see what the brakes look like, and here the answer is mostly good. Completely dry inside, all of the leaking fluid on the backing plate and the back side of the wheel is gear oil from the ball and socket. (Will have to address that too, of course. But maybe not right away.) The shoes are dry and quite fresh, very little wear. Drum is smooth, and adjustment seems to be close. The flex hose is not original, has been replaced at some point, looks good. Wheel cylinders are dry, no fluid or corrosion visible under the outer seals. Of course, they may still be seized, but I’m going to reserve judgement until I have a new master installed and can test them.
If all 4 look like this corner, worst I can see is needing to replace all the wheel cylinders.
So far, so good.
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Looks like those have been done recently, look way better than any I’ve ever pulled apart. Usually you find a brake fluid and dust sludge caked on everything 
Now .... wonder how long it’s been to worry how the rubber will hold up when you start using them?
Tucker
Now .... wonder how long it’s been to worry how the rubber will hold up when you start using them?Tucker
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #132
Yup, that is the question. At this point, if all 4 corners look like this my plan is to install the new master and bleed/flush them out, then see if the pistons move and retract smoothly. And watch for leaks. I’m still assuming that I will probably need to replace all 8 wheel cylinders.
Will know more later today.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #133
Rear brakes aren’t bad either, or at least the shoes and drums aren’t. But the wheel cylinders look pretty rusty, mostly the adjusters. I’m betting the rear cylinders are still original and probably are junk. No surprise, really. I rather expected that.
Arne
If the brake lines look OE, you REALLY should replace them as well. The 50 years of corrosion inside the lines prematurely eats up the rubber cups in the master and wheel cylinders. There are a few outfits including SOR that offer them. Not sure on @Rainman availability, per @Spike Strip.
If the brake lines look OE, you REALLY should replace them as well. The 50 years of corrosion inside the lines prematurely eats up the rubber cups in the master and wheel cylinders. There are a few outfits including SOR that offer them. Not sure on @Rainman availability, per @Spike Strip.
I'm in biz! I have (like everyone else looking) had an issue with finding the right 10mm nuts.. or the 9mm for that matter. I do have a source for good 10m nuts but crazy enough, they have a 7/16 head on them. It pisses me off that that's the only thing I can find but it will work and is available now. I do however have someone trying to see if he can get a company he deals with to make the 9m and 10m nuts for me. Hopefully things are in gear towards that but I can't be sure. This is a weird limbo time right now but I hope to be through this issue in the next few weeks. (PLEASE)
PM me and let me know what you need and how much time you have. I'll do the best I can to get you what you need.
PM me and let me know what you need and how much time you have. I'll do the best I can to get you what you need.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #137
Thanks, @Rainman . I’ll be in touch as soon as I know for sure what I want/need to replace.
I’ve looked at 3 of the 4 brakes so far, and other than the obvious uncertainty of wheel cylinders it all looks good. The fourth corner (RR) is not cooperating so far, the drum is well stuck to the axle shaft at the center hole. I may need a torch for that one.
Looking beyond that, once the new master is picked up from the previous owner, as a guess I will need to replace the rear cylinders at least, and in all probability all 8. Definitely at least one hard line (master to LF junction) to replace the one spliced into for the former trailer brake, possibly all of them. The rest (shoes, drums, hoses) looks fairly recent and pretty good.
Clutch is simpler. I know I need the master, don’t think it is even worth looking at the slave, just replace it. The hose looks old and should probably be replaced while I’m at it. I’m not seeing many sources for that hose for the early rigs, is City Racer really the exclusive source?
I’ve looked at 3 of the 4 brakes so far, and other than the obvious uncertainty of wheel cylinders it all looks good. The fourth corner (RR) is not cooperating so far, the drum is well stuck to the axle shaft at the center hole. I may need a torch for that one.
Looking beyond that, once the new master is picked up from the previous owner, as a guess I will need to replace the rear cylinders at least, and in all probability all 8. Definitely at least one hard line (master to LF junction) to replace the one spliced into for the former trailer brake, possibly all of them. The rest (shoes, drums, hoses) looks fairly recent and pretty good.
Clutch is simpler. I know I need the master, don’t think it is even worth looking at the slave, just replace it. The hose looks old and should probably be replaced while I’m at it. I’m not seeing many sources for that hose for the early rigs, is City Racer really the exclusive source?
Maybe they can use the old 11mm fittings on new hoses. That’s what we did. And we had a company that reworked 10 mm fittings and cut the thread to 9mm. But they have to have a 9mm thread cutting tool.