Older than dirt - refreshing a ‘64 FJ40 FST

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If my bandaid paint was intact and not covered with 3-4 later cheap coats of other color paint, and would look even close to as good as the paint on that 45, no way I’d change it. But no one who has seen the exposed bandaid bits has found that attractive, no one at all.

Since I’m going to have to strip this thing bare inside and out, I can’t see not taking advantage of that to change to a different factory color.

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I vote go with 'that light blue' from those days, for the lady cop. You may never get a ticket again.
 
Merry Christmas to the Land Cruiser! My family decided to gift it some bling.

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Well, fine then. Not sure what you have against painting your truck the color of artificial flesh. But, whatever.
Try thinking of it as titty pink.
 
Had a question about the front bumper, as mine is in a similar condition. Can a body or metal shop press it flat again? Or will you just buy another?
Not certain yet. I suspect that someone who knows what they are doing could pull or press it straight. But I’m not sure how I will approach it when I get that far. Depends on how the rest of the rig is turning out.
 
Had a question about the front bumper, as mine is in a similar condition. Can a body or metal shop press it flat again? Or will you just buy another?

i straightened annies with a hammer and vise
 
Smooth top air cleaner...
Is that a paper element air cleaner or oil bath? I’m having a hard time figuring about the possibility of swapping an oil one for a paper one for an early ‘63 FJ45 (F engine).

Where does one get those electrical “hubs” or ‘junctions” that mount on the inside aprons in the engine compartment? Thanks for any info.

Good stuff here!
 
As noted by @nuclearlemon above, the terminal blocks are still available from Toyota, or via any of the people reselling Toyota parts.

As for the air cleaner, I haven’t gone inside it yet, but I’m pretty certain that it is oil bath. If I can convert this existing air cleaner to a dry filter element, I will. But if not I’ll stick with the oil bath as I don’t want to change the looks under the hood.
 
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Paul, I converted one of my FJ45's from a oil bath to a K&N filter. You would need to do a little modification to the inside of the oil bath internals. See photos for K&N filter number. I personally like the oil bath set up. I think it works better.

The top photo shows the pointed piece in the bottom that needs to be removed and a metal plate with a small ring to hold the filter needs welded on the old filter holder if this makes sense. Pull your old one apart to compare photos. I hope this helps.


Mark

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Thanks for the info. PM sent Mark.
 
Not sure I will want to cut up the inside of my air cleaner, so it will probably remain oil bath. Good info even so, Mark. Thanks for sharing.
 
If and when you open up your oil bath cleaner, could you post a pic of the removable screen that gets cleaned and resoaked in oil before replacing? I think that’s an additional item not shown in Mark’s photos iirc. I’m curious as to the condition of mine and I haven’t really seen a picture of a good and functional one. Thanks and I’ll finally leave your air cleaner alone. The tailgate, however,...
 
The freshly rebuilt carb and other fuel related bits (fuel pump, filter, gaskets, etc.) are on their way here from Mark’s Off Road. ETA is sometime on Wednesday. I plan to spend some time pre-prepping for the new/fresh parts tomorrow. Hoping to try to fire it up by next weekend.

Mark ( @65swb45 ) did a great job on the carb, judging from the picture alone. Looks great. He found and fixed a problem I had wondered about, but didn’t mention to him, so I’m comfortable that he really does do a complete job on these carbs. Really looking forward to it.

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Probably won’t get to attempting a start by the weekend, as I still need to source or build a carb insulator/spacer. Looking to order some phenolic material tonight and attempt to build my own. I suspect this will delay the start up by a week or more.

The carb, filter and pump all arrived today as expected. The pump and filter are new OEM, so no surprises there. The carb looks fantastic! Really pleased.
 
Working through the fuel system now. Installed new fuel pump, and cleaned up the original fuel filter (glass bowl) and put in a new element. Sheet of phenolic material just arrived, will begin building a carb spacer tomorrow.

Found two more date codes, one of which really narrows the build date range.

Fuel filter -

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Fuel pump -

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So the progression of dates so far is:

Carb - 3A3 - January 3, 1963
Block casting - 30112 - January 12, 1963
Fuel filter - 3B1 - February 1, 1963
Fuel pump - 3I1 - September 1, 1963
Sold to 1st owner - November ?, 1963

So the actual build date was probably in September.
 
Nice! Should the inside of hole be sealed because of fuel mixture contact to prevent delamination?
 
Nice! Should the inside of hole be sealed because of fuel mixture contact to prevent delamination?
I don’t think it should be necessary, the material is said to be oil/fuel resistant. I guess we’ll see later.
 

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