Builds Old Landy: An HJ45 Story/Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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Pretty sweet. Lucky kid! Great dad and good friend Ryan, @CaptClose with the mean facial expressions. You guys are funny.
make sure you match the specific caps to their respective con rods before you install them 😂 . May or may not have messed up on that one....
I hear that one loud and clear... same with the placement of each rod and cap to the respective cylinder. I was installing mine and just got lucky after installing the first one when I realized they were numbered; just by chance I had installed number 6 into the 6th cylinder.
After being corrected on @AdamRonaldson thread this AM, and saw the link for @Cowboy45 thread there, I am thoroughly impressed. I foresee in a handful of years if my son still loves hands on work, I'll need to get another truck for him to rebuild. I had hoped to get him involved with my 2F engine rebuild now but I am finding my anxiety and control issues are too big to let him do much at 6.5 years of age.
 
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Pretty sweet. Lucky kid! Great dad and good friend Ryan, @CaptClose with the mean facial expressions. You guys are funny.

I hear that one loud and clear... same with the placement of each rod and cap to the respective cylinder. I was installing mine and just got lucky after installing the first one when I realized they were numbered; just by chance I had installed number 6 into the 6th cylinder.
After being corrected on @AdamRonaldsons thread this AM, and saw the link for @Cowboy45s thread there, I am thoroughly impressed. I foresee in a handful of years if my son still loves hands on work, I'll need to get another truck for him to rebuild. I had hoped to get him involved with my 2F engine rebuild now but I am finding my anxiety and control issues are too big to let him do much at 6.5 years of age.

Hands on work is huge in our family. Not the two thumb media kind. My kids do great at school, but there is a huge void I try to fill. Buy him some cheap Goodwill appliances (<$5) and have him tear them apart on the kitchen counter without worry of putting it back together. Confidence building. If he can put it back together that’s even better. A small HF tool box of his own basic stuff is empowering. Helping identify the right tool to use for each thing helps. With confidence, greater things can happen. He is at a good age to start.
 
Hands on work is huge in our family. Not the two thumb media kind. My kids do great at school, but there is a huge void I try to fill. Buy him some cheap Goodwill appliances (<$5) and have him tear them apart on the kitchen counter without worry of putting it back together. Confidence building. If he can put it back together that’s even better. A small HF tool box of his own basic stuff is empowering. Helping identify the right tool to use for each thing helps. With confidence, greater things can happen. He is at a good age to start.
Thanks... We have done it w/ a lawn mower engine all the way down and a DVD player. He really thought it was awesome to see the little fan run off a couple jumpers and a battery. And yes I have a nice tool box, the old school red metal kind and a tool bag of kid sized really nice tools. He already knows the majority of the tools and their names. (As I said, it’s MY anxiety and control issues stopping me from having him involved in the engine.)Those stay in the house and I use them all the time. A socket and wrench set to add to it is in the list.
He had an used iPad but the screen went dead I think cuz he plopped it on the floor hard a few times even tho it was in a nice case. I actually tried to replace the screen but I think it was further in, as in the actual LCD and I decided to not toss $$ at it anymore. He wasn’t too wrecked.
 
My dad surprised me for my 15th birthday by cleaning out an old 2 stall garage (full of junk) next to main shop and wiring it with lights and plugs. Also put in a wood stove. He gave it to me to work on cars in.

Best gift ever.
 
Merry Christmas to all my friends here.
Angry Santa addition keeping with the theme.

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You sure the angry Santa shouldn’t have the hat ball on the other side?:p:santa:
 
I couldn't figure out how to attach the necessary to the PM so thought I'd just stick it on here where I do know how. My tailgate is a bit battered and stands to be replaced but I think the measurements are OK.

If the retaining hooks have been cut off yours I will make a tracing.

RETAINING HOOK WELDED TO INSIDE OF LOAD BED. (In SA we call it a "bak." Pronounced buck.)

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OUTSIDE REAR.
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INSIDE RIGHT REAR
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HINGE DETAIL (12mm BOLTS)
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LEFT HAND INSIDE. NOTE CHAIN HOOK TAB. USES SAME BOLT HOLES AS CLAMP.
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RHD OUTER (RETAINING HOOK AND BULGE DETAIL)
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HINGE DIMENSIONS AND SECTION OF TAILGATE.
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jUST SOME OBSERVATIONS:

The plate thickness of 2.5mm seems to be a bit of an overkill if the truck is not going to be worked hard.

The shaped panel is held by 10 spot welds at the top and 10 at the bottom. It is a rust trap. Seam sealer is your friend.

Don't forget to drill drain holes in the bottom of the tail gate.

The removable inside panel is there only to allow access to the hinge bolts. It could easily be two smaller openings.

The pin holes in the hinges should probably be 16.5mm rather than the 17mm on the drawing. It rattles when they wear and they wear quickly from the vibration.

The slots for the retaining hooks are very worn on mine. Whoever fabricates your will probably have to make it to fit your retaining hook.

The clips are drilled 10mm so drill the holes in the tailgate 10 or 11mm to allow you to adjust the clips to get a really nice tight fit.

All measurements taken from the outer edges and bolt measurements to centre spot.

Hope this helps. Any questions just shout.
 
Wow!!! I’m so glad you posted on the thread!! This is valuable information. I was planning on sending you a PM to see if you were able to locate one. What you shared has all the information we need to build one. I will review it. I think sharing it here gives anyone the information they need to do the same.
 
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Hey everyone we did a lot of work this past break! The first week @CaptClose stayed with us for a couple days and we got to work on the head and removed the old cracked pre-cups! We used a hook to grab the pre-cup from the inside and then used a hammer and a screw driver to hit it from the inside through the injector hole. This method worked super effectively and all pre-cups came out without and trouble!

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If we were to do this all again we should have put the new pre-cups in before sending the head to the machine shop, but we didn’t... At a first glance the brand new pre-cups seemed to be shorter side by side with the old ones but upon installation they ended up sitting higher and definitely not within the run-out spec per the FSM.

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Now it’s time for the head instillation! First, I some Lacquer Thinner and a rag and cleaned the Head Gasket surface on the Head and Block of any dirt, dust, and grime. I then followed up with Acetone. Before we put on the head gasket and the head itself I made sure there was no paper in any of the coolant holes, oil holes, and cylinder bores. Installing the Head Gasket: The head gasket can only slide onto the dowel pins one way so you know it’s the right way. Head Installation: We first looked at the dowel pin holes on the head and made sure they aligned with the dowel pins on the block. Then, we simply plopped the head right down on top of the block sandwiching the head gasket between the two. Lastly, follow the FSM to see the specific bolt pattern to tighten the head. Basically you are tightening the head inside to out side to prevent it from warping. If you start from the outside and are torquing all the way down you risk bending the head. I would also go over multiple passes starting at a lower torque spec and working your way up as just a extra precaution to prevent warping! For example, start at 1st pass 30 ft-lbs ———> 2nd pass 60 ft-lbs ———> 3rd pass 83 ft - lbs (final spec). Another thing we did was take the head bolts and wire wheel them clean from all dirt and rust and then we also chased the threads into the head so it would go in smoothly. (*I have more pictures of the installation but I need some time to get them*)

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Then we rebuilt the rocker arm. We got brand new OEM rocker arms free from the extensive wear from the valves. I started by disassembling the rocker arm and organizing it in the percise order it came out. Then, I switched the old rocker arms for the new ones and converted the valve adjustment screws over to the new ones as well. One thing we made sure of was how the oil holes on the rocker shaft lined up with the arms themselves because if they are put in the wrong way they may not get oiled. Another thing to know is which side is the front side of the rocker arm. Right after you remove it flip it over and look for the large oil hole and make sure that you know that is the front once you disassemble the rocker arm. Lastly, we tightened the rocker arm in at 13 ft-lbs. Ft. Mean face 😂

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Then we moved on to timing. We first installed the refurbished inner timing cover housing with rebuilt oil pump. We torqued it down to 18 ft-lbs and then installed the crankshaft timing gear making sure the key groove was facing directly up and the 1st and 6th pistons were at exactly top dead center. You have to make sure this is absolutely perfect otherwise your engines entire timing could be off. Ex. The injectors could be firing when the explosion in the piston has already happened and is pushing the exhaust out of the piston. Next, we installed the 1st Idler Gear lining up the “0” tooth on the Crankshaft timing gear with the “0” groove in the 1st Idler Gear. We then torqued the gear down to 34 ft - lbs. Then, we moved on to the 2nd Idler Gear lining up the “1” groove on the 1st idler gear and the “1 tooth on the 2nd idler gear. We torqued this one to 34 ft-lbs too. Lastly, we installed the camshaft carful to not scratch the bearing races and lined up the “3” on the Cam with the groove between the 2 “3”s on the 2nd idler gear!

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