Same philosophy here. I use a Motorcraft FL1A, a little bit extra oil capacity, quite a bit more filter media than smaller OEM filters and my oil stays remarkably clean. $4.00 at Walmart.
Oil filter options are many (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter baldilocks
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Same philosophy here. I use a Motorcraft FL1A, a little bit extra oil capacity, quite a bit more filter media than smaller OEM filters and my oil stays remarkably clean. $4.00 at Walmart.
- Thread starter
- #22
Been doing some research and in doing so I learned that the motorcraft FL-1A is a Purolator PureOne. It's the same exact filter but can be had cheaper. It contains 400 square inches of filter medium as opposed to 225 in the toyota -yzzd3. In defense o the toyota filter, it is larger than the other over the counter compact filters called out for the 1fz and contains nearly twice the filter medium as some of these other filters. If toyota puts these same filters on new engines that they warrant then they must be descent.
I too prefer the larger filter. A good anti drain back valve is important since our filters mount horizontally. Some filters don't have this feature so be sure of what you are installing.
Motorcraft FL1A, looks like a good one.
Oil Filter Style Canister
Height (in) 5.190 in.
Outside Diameter (in) 3.780 in.
Filter Bypass Relief Valve Yes
Relief Valve Open (psi) 11-14 psi
Anti-Drainback Valve Yes
Smallest Particle Filtered 20 microns
Maximum Burst Pressure (psi) 200 psi
Thread Size 3/4-16 in.
Gasket Outside Diameter (in) 2.800 in.
Gasket Inside Diameter (in) 2.422 in.
Gasket Thickness (in) 0.203 in.
Oil Filter Style Canister
Height (in) 5.190 in.
Outside Diameter (in) 3.780 in.
Filter Bypass Relief Valve Yes
Relief Valve Open (psi) 11-14 psi
Anti-Drainback Valve Yes
Smallest Particle Filtered 20 microns
Maximum Burst Pressure (psi) 200 psi
Thread Size 3/4-16 in.
Gasket Outside Diameter (in) 2.800 in.
Gasket Inside Diameter (in) 2.422 in.
Gasket Thickness (in) 0.203 in.
- Thread starter
- #27
These filters are made by Wix and garner above average marks/opinions by the people who really get into disecting oil filters and publishing their findings. I used wix/Napa gold in the larger size for years. Recently, I became interested in looking into other filter options for the 1fz engine.
I don't mind paying for premium filters, not just a filter that is said to filter well but one that was built in a high quality fashion. Of course, it is less of a burden on your wallet if you can stomach leaving your oil in the crankcase longer than you used to in order to take advantage of an expensive oil filter.
Has anyone explored the Toyota Forklift service centers? Last time I looked for parts for my work lift truck, I was pretty impressed by the amount of OEM industrial line Toyota parts.
This was before I picked up the LX, so I wasn't as interested in filter alternatives as now. Currently I run the Thai filters and Mobil 1...all 2 gallons of it.
This was before I picked up the LX, so I wasn't as interested in filter alternatives as now. Currently I run the Thai filters and Mobil 1...all 2 gallons of it.
- Thread starter
- #29
Oilfilterdata.com has all the cross reference info you can digest as well as filter specs. From what I saw of dissected filters, the Thai made Toyota -yzzd3 filter is better than most all filters in its price category.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Another option is the Napa #1773.
It's at least 50% taller than the Fl1A or the 1515.
It's at least 50% taller than the Fl1A or the 1515.
Here's a really good comparo thread from Tacoma world. Lots of filters opened up and checked out.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ggoMAE&usg=AFQjCNEjzVITLXpCSjLNiTXN-9Ny9SCVXQ
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ggoMAE&usg=AFQjCNEjzVITLXpCSjLNiTXN-9Ny9SCVXQ
Hornd
SILVER Star
Run Toyota Filters and Mobil 1 Oil (priced right) and put the rest in the Tank, and play the $650 Mil PowerBall.
The odds of you winning and your motor failing due to oil are the same odds.
The odds of you winning and your motor failing due to oil are the same odds.
- Thread starter
- #33
I read that one too.
- Thread starter
- #34
Fear of losing an engine doesn't enter this equation. Some people would prefer to run their oil longer and finding a better than average filter, in every way, helps make that possible. That's why there is cheap oil and filters and more robust oil and filters. If your going to drain your oil three or four times per year, you might as well run the cheapest stuff you can find.
IMO, running Mobil 1 in a YZZD3 does not make sense; top grade oil and an average filter. You can run that Mobil one 15k easily but would you feel comfortable trusting an ordinary paper element, in that size, for that long?
The filter may play a role in keeping oil in your truck longer by filtering out particles of a specific size and possibly absorbing some contaminants.
The longevity of engine oil has a lot to do with how fast the additives oxidize. Regardless of base oil, the real heavy lifting is done by the additive packages and viscosity modifiers that are mixed into the oil. Additives take a beating in engines and begin to degrade which has an effect on the "oil wedge" and "boundary" lubrication properties. Those properties of the oil are what keeps the metal from touching metal.
While I was a product manager for an oil line, I would tell customers that I could make a terrible synthetic or an awesome mineral based oil. Customers were convinced that "Synthetic" automatically made an oil better, but by just by adjusting the additive packages my company could make both perform nearly the same (except at very low viscosity.) There were some junk synthetics out there that people swore by because someone convinced them those products were the best, even though testing data reported otherwise. Even when showing them the data, they would even call me a liar because they believed that heavily in their choice of product.
If running oil longer is the goal we should do what the big commercial equipment companies do and take samples at regular intervals for testing. That's how they know when their big equipment needs servicing. Otherwise we are just guessing.
So I'm not sure if differences in filter media will make all that much of a difference in mean time between oil changes if we aren't running very high quality lubricants in the first place.
The longevity of engine oil has a lot to do with how fast the additives oxidize. Regardless of base oil, the real heavy lifting is done by the additive packages and viscosity modifiers that are mixed into the oil. Additives take a beating in engines and begin to degrade which has an effect on the "oil wedge" and "boundary" lubrication properties. Those properties of the oil are what keeps the metal from touching metal.
While I was a product manager for an oil line, I would tell customers that I could make a terrible synthetic or an awesome mineral based oil. Customers were convinced that "Synthetic" automatically made an oil better, but by just by adjusting the additive packages my company could make both perform nearly the same (except at very low viscosity.) There were some junk synthetics out there that people swore by because someone convinced them those products were the best, even though testing data reported otherwise. Even when showing them the data, they would even call me a liar because they believed that heavily in their choice of product.
If running oil longer is the goal we should do what the big commercial equipment companies do and take samples at regular intervals for testing. That's how they know when their big equipment needs servicing. Otherwise we are just guessing.
So I'm not sure if differences in filter media will make all that much of a difference in mean time between oil changes if we aren't running very high quality lubricants in the first place.
DirtScaresMe
Trouble Maker
Here's a guy who blew his engine out because of his Wix filter: If you're using a WIX oil filter read this
I'm not personally aware of any oem filters failing like that. I'm sure an oem has somewhere and to someone in the world but there's a wix that blew out less than a year ago here on mud.
Oem filters single hand tightened, good enough for me.
I'm not personally aware of any oem filters failing like that. I'm sure an oem has somewhere and to someone in the world but there's a wix that blew out less than a year ago here on mud.
Oem filters single hand tightened, good enough for me.
Napa Gold here 
My truck has a self-changing oil system, so I think the filter is a little less critical.
My truck has a self-changing oil system, so I think the filter is a little less critical.
Napa Gold here
My truck has a self-changing oil system, so I think the filter is a little less critical.
Me too....
2-22-19 - EDITED - I don't anymore. Too many times has there been evidence (anecdotal or otherwise) to suggest that WIX filters and their rebrands are inferior to others. Their quality control isn't up to the level I will ever use them again.
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Although its been maligned recently I've been using the WIX 51515 and its worked fine as far as I can tell. I change the oil/filter every 3000 miles and the oil is dirtier than new but never that deep black color (more of a dark brown).
My preferred filter is MANN, I should check and see if they make one for the FZJ80. I've always used those on my Volvo and BMW's.
My preferred filter is MANN, I should check and see if they make one for the FZJ80. I've always used those on my Volvo and BMW's.
