Oil & Filter Change for LC200 (2 Viewers)

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xtern0 said:
Mostly on-topic, mostly whining, high likelihood of duplication....

So on a '21 LC200 HE, there are 11...yes, ELEVEN total skidplate/cover bolts one has to remove in order to complete an oil change. I find this absolutely inexcusable and Toyota should be embarrassed by this cost-cutting decision. Toyota should have simply installed a second small cover beneath the filter cartridge similar to the oil drain cover.

As it is, I figure an 200 Land Cruiser owner has basically only two reasonable options: (1) Buy bright colored tractor paint of your choice and paint the heads of the eleven bolts so one doesn't need the FSM or a youtube video everytime they change the oil; or (2) buy an aftermarket skid plate that has access ports for both the cartridge and the drain.

Notably, taking a stock 200 LC to a quick-lube isn't an option I'd ever advise. That's an almost guaranteed way to end up with missing "No. 1 Engine Undercover Sub-assembly" and "Front Fender Splash Shield Sub-assembly" bolts. Ugh.

To add insult to injury, some dumb@$$ didn't stop and think that the three "Front Fender Splash Shield" bolts are relatively large plastic self-tapping-style body screws. Which means they were not intended to be removed and reinstalled more than a couple of times for fitment purposes (unlike a purpose-built access panel). I estimate one would be lucky to still have all of them after about 50-100k miles (5-15 oil changes) since the plastic gets torn up every time you remove and reinstall them.

I shouldn't have to break out a rattle can or budget for an aftermarket skidplate to efficiently maintain my vehicle! @#&%$^%%&^&^Q&^&*W^*&^E*&^@*&#^*!@^#*&@^

X
Click to expand...
It's done this way for a reason: it's a test. You have to pass the "where do the skid plate bolts go" test before you get your 200 series man card. Welcome to the club!!! :cheers:
 
Well, this pushed me over the threshold of writing an “oil changes aren’t hard”/“stop whining” thread/how-to.
 
xtern0 said:
As it is, I figure an 200 Land Cruiser owner has basically only two reasonable options: (1) Buy bright colored tractor paint of your choice and paint the heads of the eleven bolts so one doesn't need the FSM or a youtube video everytime they change the oil; or (2) buy an aftermarket skid plate that has access ports for both the cartridge and the drain.
Click to expand...
(3) take a hole saw and cut access holes in the factory splash plates.

(they are flimsy metal and plastic, hardly a "skid" plate)

bloc said:
Well, this pushed me over the threshold of writing an “oil changes aren’t hard”/“stop whining” thread/how-to.
Click to expand...
Please do it!!
 
xtern0 said:
Mostly on-topic, mostly whining, high likelihood of duplication....

So on a '21 LC200 HE, there are 11...yes, ELEVEN total skidplate/cover bolts one has to remove in order to complete an oil change. I find this absolutely inexcusable and Toyota should be embarrassed by this cost-cutting decision. Toyota should have simply installed a second small cover beneath the filter cartridge similar to the oil drain cover.

As it is, I figure an 200 Land Cruiser owner has basically only two reasonable options: (1) Buy bright colored tractor paint of your choice and paint the heads of the eleven bolts so one doesn't need the FSM or a youtube video everytime they change the oil; or (2) buy an aftermarket skid plate that has access ports for both the cartridge and the drain.

Notably, taking a stock 200 LC to a quick-lube isn't an option I'd ever advise. That's an almost guaranteed way to end up with missing "No. 1 Engine Undercover Sub-assembly" and "Front Fender Splash Shield Sub-assembly" bolts. Ugh.

To add insult to injury, some dumb@$$ didn't stop and think that the three "Front Fender Splash Shield" bolts are relatively large plastic self-tapping-style body screws. Which means they were not intended to be removed and reinstalled more than a couple of times for fitment purposes (unlike a purpose-built access panel). I estimate one would be lucky to still have all of them after about 50-100k miles (5-15 oil changes) since the plastic gets torn up every time you remove and reinstall them.

I shouldn't have to break out a rattle can or budget for an aftermarket skidplate to efficiently maintain my vehicle! @#&%$^%%&^&^Q&^&*W^*&^E*&^@*&#^*!@^#*&@^

X
Click to expand...
I'd recommend the Budbuilt skids for when you're ready for real underbody protection vs. stock. And keep on top of when @bjowett releases another batch of his awesome oil filter housings - total game changer!

I understand where you're coming from though about being such a PIA. The ONE dealer oil change I used (at approx 1-2k for break in), it took them 2 hours to do it. So it's not just you.
 
FrazzledHunter said:
It's done this way for a reason: it's a test. You have to pass the "where do the skid plate bolts go" test before you get your 200 series man card. Welcome to the club!!! :cheers:
Click to expand...
lol...well, after the 4th oil change, I just had to vent somewhere!
 
KLF said:
(3) take a hole saw and cut access holes in the factory splash plates.

(they are flimsy metal and plastic, hardly a "skid" plate)
Click to expand...
That's actually a pretty good idea...however, that just reinforces the "Why should I have to..." argument. My concern with cutting access holes in an undercarriage is based mostly on creating rust traps and sand collectors in corrosion-prone areas of the vehicle. Seems like having an open hole in that particular area would definitely create some "water scoop" action at the very least. If this refers to cutting and fabbing an actual un-boltable access panel, then that's a different matter and that's something where I'd probably just go with aftermarket skid plates as opposed to breaking out the protractor and compass.

Totally agree about terms, but "skid plate" is easier to type than "No. 1 Engine Undercover Sub-Assembly"! I guess I could use "splash shield", but then I start to feel like I'm using terminology from a Max Hardcore video. lol
 
Last edited:
xtern0 said:
Mostly on-topic, mostly whining, high likelihood of duplication....

So on a '21 LC200 HE, there are 11...yes, ELEVEN total skidplate/cover bolts one has to remove in order to complete an oil change. I find this absolutely inexcusable and Toyota should be embarrassed by this cost-cutting decision. Toyota should have simply installed a second small cover beneath the filter cartridge similar to the oil drain cover.

As it is, I figure an 200 Land Cruiser owner has basically only two reasonable options: (1) Buy bright colored tractor paint of your choice and paint the heads of the eleven bolts so one doesn't need the FSM or a youtube video everytime they change the oil; or (2) buy an aftermarket skid plate that has access ports for both the cartridge and the drain.

Notably, taking a stock 200 LC to a quick-lube isn't an option I'd ever advise. That's an almost guaranteed way to end up with missing "No. 1 Engine Undercover Sub-assembly" and "Front Fender Splash Shield Sub-assembly" bolts. Ugh.

To add insult to injury, some dumb@$$ didn't stop and think that the three "Front Fender Splash Shield" bolts are relatively large plastic self-tapping-style body screws. Which means they were not intended to be removed and reinstalled more than a couple of times for fitment purposes (unlike a purpose-built access panel). I estimate one would be lucky to still have all of them after about 50-100k miles (5-15 oil changes) since the plastic gets torn up every time you remove and reinstall them.

I shouldn't have to break out a rattle can or budget for an aftermarket skidplate to efficiently maintain my vehicle! @#&%$^%%&^&^Q&^&*W^*&^E*&^@*&#^*!@^#*&@^

X
Click to expand...
Ahhh the burdens one must bear owning a HE. :rofl:
 
KH Chan said:
Well, i salute you guys good at DIY, don't think i am able to do it myself.

I need advice, any idea how to reset the display for next oil change? Thank you
Click to expand...
Check this site out.. The process is definitely harder than it needs to be.

erwinsalarda.com

HOW TO RESET: Maintenance Required Toyota LandCruiser

Useful tutorial on how to reset the Maintenance Required/Oil Maintenance on Toyota Landcruiser (J100, J200, Base, Heritage Edition,V8) from year
erwinsalarda.com erwinsalarda.com
 
Did my first oil change on the 200 series platform over the weekend. Have only had this particular LX for 5000 miles, so it was my first time getting dirty with this rig apart from AHC globe/fluid replacement.

It was single-owner rig that was exclusively Lexus-serviced in Houston. 2010 with 81k miles when I bought it last fall. Kind of surprised at some of my findings, though maybe I shouldn't be...
  1. Only 3 of 6 bolts holding on the driver side skid plate
  2. MAF sensor connector is broken (pictures on post)
  3. The metal drain disc on the oil filter was torqued on so tight, the whole filter housing started to unthread when I tried to remove it using a 3/8 extension.
    1. I let it be. Figured if it was torqued on so tight, I'd do more harm than good trying to pull it off to replace the o-ring.
  4. The retaining pin on the filter housing wouldn't come off. Looked like it had been bent out of the way previously, so I did the same
Otherwise, all is seems fine. I guess I'll swap out the filter housing for the Venza part on the next change. Went with Mobil 1 5w-30 to see if I can hear a difference in engine chatter.
 
trudd said:
Did my first oil change on the 200 series platform over the weekend. Have only had this particular LX for 5000 miles, so it was my first time getting dirty with this rig apart from AHC globe/fluid replacement.

It was single-owner rig that was exclusively Lexus-serviced in Houston. 2010 with 81k miles when I bought it last fall. Kind of surprised at some of my findings, though maybe I shouldn't be...
  1. Only 3 of 6 bolts holding on the driver side skid plate
  2. MAF sensor connector is broken (pictures on post)
  3. The metal drain disc on the oil filter was torqued on so tight, the whole filter housing started to unthread when I tried to remove it using a 3/8 extension.
    1. I let it be. Figured if it was torqued on so tight, I'd do more harm than good trying to pull it off to replace the o-ring.
  4. The retaining pin on the filter housing wouldn't come off. Looked like it had been bent out of the way previously, so I did the same
Otherwise, all is seems fine. I guess I'll swap out the filter housing for the Venza part on the next change. Went with Mobil 1 5w-30 to see if I can hear a difference in engine chatter.
Click to expand...

Venza housing is the way. And see this thread if you need bolt part numbers

forum.ih8mud.com

Stock skid plate / splash guard bolt locations & part numbers

It seems this comes up pretty often, and having just removed my stock skids it was easy to take the picture I had been thinking of for a while. You'll need three part numbers to attach the stock splash guards. 12x M8 large washer bolt, these go into the purple locations on the diagram...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
Thank you so much for the detailed tutorial! I just did my 1st oil change on my 2013 (previously had a 2005) and other than a freak incident it went smoothly...

Having never done the 200 before I had to guess where the catch pan would go, it's one of those with the little plastic screw in the middle that pops up for the oil to drain in from the basin. Well I happened to get it in exactly the right spot so that when the drain plug came out it and the stream of hot oil they hit the top of that little popup screw...which pushed it back down. So now the oil isn't draining into the basin and is hot af and pouring out of the truck. If I were a nation it would have been an international environmental incident. Eventually the oil in the basin was cool enough to stick my hand in there and pull the popup back up but a lot of oil ran down the driveway. A quick trip to o'reilly for some absorbent stuff and we're back in business!
 
higglesworth said:
Thank you so much for the detailed tutorial! I just did my 1st oil change on my 2013 (previously had a 2005) and other than a freak incident it went smoothly...

Having never done the 200 before I had to guess where the catch pan would go, it's one of those with the little plastic screw in the middle that pops up for the oil to drain in from the basin. Well I happened to get it in exactly the right spot so that when the drain plug came out it and the stream of hot oil they hit the top of that little popup screw...which pushed it back down. So now the oil isn't draining into the basin and is hot af and pouring out of the truck. If I were a nation it would have been an international environmental incident. Eventually the oil in the basin was cool enough to stick my hand in there and pull the popup back up but a lot of oil ran down the driveway. A quick trip to o'reilly for some absorbent stuff and we're back in business!
Click to expand...
Note to self, keep a small container of kitty litter on shelf it doesn't go bad and who knows you may get a cat. :rofl:
 
My method is to put the truck on ramps and stick a 5 gallon home depot bucket underneath. Slap the top on when I'm done draining the filter housing.
 
trudd said:
Did my first oil change on the 200 series platform over the weekend. Have only had this particular LX for 5000 miles, so it was my first time getting dirty with this rig apart from AHC globe/fluid replacement.

It was single-owner rig that was exclusively Lexus-serviced in Houston. 2010 with 81k miles when I bought it last fall. Kind of surprised at some of my findings, though maybe I shouldn't be...
  1. Only 3 of 6 bolts holding on the driver side skid plate
  2. MAF sensor connector is broken (pictures on post)
  3. The metal drain disc on the oil filter was torqued on so tight, the whole filter housing started to unthread when I tried to remove it using a 3/8 extension.
    1. I let it be. Figured if it was torqued on so tight, I'd do more harm than good trying to pull it off to replace the o-ring.
  4. The retaining pin on the filter housing wouldn't come off. Looked like it had been bent out of the way previously, so I did the same
Otherwise, all is seems fine. I guess I'll swap out the filter housing for the Venza part on the next change. Went with Mobil 1 5w-30 to see if I can hear a difference in engine chatter.
Click to expand...

One very nice upgrade that should fix most of the damage done by previous quickie-lube oil changes, would be to purchase the metal version of the genuine Toyota filter housing (Toyota P/N: 15620-31060, 'Cap Assembly, Oil Filter'). They run ~$35 or so, very good upgrade ROI. Also, as I understand it, the metal housing was what the engineers originally designed, but its used only in certain lexuses and toyotas, but not many. So its still available as a part. I highly recommend it for piece of mind.

As far as the missing bolts for the skid plate: I'm not the least bit surprised given my experience. My son is doing most of the oil changes now, but even he complains about all the stuff he has to peel off the engine to change the oil. So I'm leaning towards either the LFD skid plate recommendation by @sleepycruiser or perhaps the Budbuilt solution recommended by @gasman4u .

I'm leaning more towards the LFD solution purely on price, but I have a set of budbuilt rock sliders on it already and while I couldn't be happier with the sliders, you pay for budbuilt. Also, the LFD solution appears to be a one-and-done one-piece solution, while budbuilt appears to require two purchases to get marginally more coverage.

I guess if I was rallying or offroading in my Land Cruiser, I might be more inclined to go with budbuilt, but I use my Taco for offroading, the Land Cruiser is still a few years away from being old enough to justify red interior lighting, pinstripes, and dirt.

Does anyone have experience with the LFD skid plate vs. the Budbuilt skid plates? I'd definitely like some advice/guidance from someone who has hands-on experience with one, or ideally both.
 
So...I've been spending most of my time on another restoration project and now that I'm wrapping that up, I'm paying a bit more attention to my Land Cruiser again. Lo and behold, I was going to stock up on the TRD oil filters, did a search, and see that the prices are in excess of $95 for a genuine TRD oil filter PTR43-00081!!!! W...T...F...?!!!! 200/570 - Unobtanium Parts (Discontinued Stuff) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/200-570-unobtanium-parts-discontinued-stuff.1329937/ Man...I really liked that TRD filter....

Kinda sick and tired of this cassette-style oil filter silliness. Anyone have any experience with some of the available spin-on adapters? One example: Toyota TS-601-BK Cartridge To Spin-On Adapter - https://www.baxterperformanceusa.com/shop-by-make/toyota-ts-601-bk-cartridge-to-spin-on-adapter.html (The Baxter Performance TS-601-BK).
 
Last edited:
xtern0 said:
One very nice upgrade that should fix most of the damage done by previous quickie-lube oil changes, would be to purchase the metal version of the genuine Toyota filter housing (Toyota P/N: 15620-31060, 'Cap Assembly, Oil Filter'). They run ~$35 or so, very good upgrade ROI. Also, as I understand it, the metal housing was what the engineers originally designed, but its used only in certain lexuses and toyotas, but not many. So its still available as a part. I highly recommend it for piece of mind.

As far as the missing bolts for the skid plate: I'm not the least bit surprised given my experience. My son is doing most of the oil changes now, but even he complains about all the stuff he has to peel off the engine to change the oil. So I'm leaning towards either the LFD skid plate recommendation by @sleepycruiser or perhaps the Budbuilt solution recommended by @gasman4u .

I'm leaning more towards the LFD solution purely on price, but I have a set of budbuilt rock sliders on it already and while I couldn't be happier with the sliders, you pay for budbuilt. Also, the LFD solution appears to be a one-and-done one-piece solution, while budbuilt appears to require two purchases to get marginally more coverage.

I guess if I was rallying or offroading in my Land Cruiser, I might be more inclined to go with budbuilt, but I use my Taco for offroading, the Land Cruiser is still a few years away from being old enough to justify red interior lighting, pinstripes, and dirt.

Does anyone have experience with the LFD skid plate vs. the Budbuilt skid plates? I'd definitely like some advice/guidance from someone who has hands-on experience with one, or ideally both.
Click to expand...
Still liking the LFD. It is stout and no issues. Makes oil changes a breeze. Add the Fumoto valve on the oil pan drain and it doesn’t get much easier. I also added the metal oil filter casing.
 
xtern0 said:
One very nice upgrade that should fix most of the damage done by previous quickie-lube oil changes, would be to purchase the metal version of the genuine Toyota filter housing (Toyota P/N: 15620-31060, 'Cap Assembly, Oil Filter'). They run ~$35 or so, very good upgrade ROI. Also, as I understand it, the metal housing was what the engineers originally designed, but its used only in certain lexuses and toyotas, but not many. So its still available as a part. I highly recommend it for piece of mind.

As far as the missing bolts for the skid plate: I'm not the least bit surprised given my experience. My son is doing most of the oil changes now, but even he complains about all the stuff he has to peel off the engine to change the oil. So I'm leaning towards either the LFD skid plate recommendation by @sleepycruiser or perhaps the Budbuilt solution recommended by @gasman4u .

I'm leaning more towards the LFD solution purely on price, but I have a set of budbuilt rock sliders on it already and while I couldn't be happier with the sliders, you pay for budbuilt. Also, the LFD solution appears to be a one-and-done one-piece solution, while budbuilt appears to require two purchases to get marginally more coverage.

I guess if I was rallying or offroading in my Land Cruiser, I might be more inclined to go with budbuilt, but I use my Taco for offroading, the Land Cruiser is still a few years away from being old enough to justify red interior lighting, pinstripes, and dirt.

Does anyone have experience with the LFD skid plate vs. the Budbuilt skid plates? I'd definitely like some advice/guidance from someone who has hands-on experience with one, or ideally both.
Click to expand...
I can’t speak for LFD, but once again can say my Budbuilt skids are a buy once, cry once type scenario. I totally get they’re spendy, but I’m sure you’ve noticed your skids having solid build quality that Budbuilt is known for. Skids are no different. Raw material costs have gone up unfortunately and bud and his team have to use a fair bit of it on these skids.

Iirc you can get some small discount if you order a whole set of skids? The website will let you know. This may be more than what you’re seeking though.
 
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