Stock skid plate / splash guard bolt locations & part numbers (2 Viewers)

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bloc

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It seems this comes up pretty often, and having just removed my stock skids it was easy to take the picture I had been thinking of for a while.

You'll need three part numbers to attach the stock splash guards.

12x M8 large washer bolt, these go into the purple locations on the diagram
90119-08862

8x M8 small washer bolt, these go into the red locations on the diagram
90119-A0169

6x M6 flanged bolt, these go into the yellow locations. Note that my diagram only shows 4, 2 more go through the plastic wings into the bumper support.
90109-06375

Top of the picture is the front of the skids, and the picture is taken from what would be the ground looking up at the bottom of the truck.

IMG_0505.jpg


IMG_7524 2.jpg
 
It seems this comes up pretty often, and having just removed my stock skids it was easy to take the picture I had been thinking of for a while.

You'll need three part numbers to attach the stock splash guards.

12x M8 large washer bolt, these go into the purple locations on the diagram
90119-08862

8x M8 small washer bolt, these go into the red locations on the diagram
90119-A0169

6x M6 flanged bolt, these go into the yellow locations. Note that my diagram only shows 4, 2 more go through the plastic wings into the bumper support.
90109-06375

Top of the picture is the front of the skids, and the picture is taken from what would be the ground looking up at the bottom of the truck.

View attachment 3063552

View attachment 3063555
Book marked! Thanks👍
 
Thanks for the likes!

I did forget one detail..

The two purple/large washer bolts in the very center do not need to come out for most work. Those hold the brace that supports the inner edge of both splash shields, and it attaches between the lower radiator crossmember and the main suspension crossmember.

The only time I'd remove that was if I had to do work on the serpentine belt system.. I found it much easier to manipulate the tensioner from the bottom, and having the center spine out of the way allowed for more swing of the breaker bar. Plus it's 10x easier to insert a pin to hold back on the tensioner from the bottom.

Anyway, hope this helps. If anyone has extra info that could be useful feel free to add it.
 
Thanks for putting this together as the factory diagrams are pretty vague. I was super confused when I pulled everything off to replace my starter as whoever was in there last seemed to use the purple and red bolts interchangeably so nothing was consistent.
 
Thanks for putting this together as the factory diagrams are pretty vague. I was super confused when I pulled everything off to replace my starter as whoever was in there last seemed to use the purple and red bolts interchangeably so nothing was consistent.
Most oil-change techs will not have the attention to detail needed to get this stuff right. And really, it's not a huge deal if they are swapped around, but toyota did all of this for a reason and generally I trust their decision making on design. And yeah the factory diagrams really assume the tech knows what they are doing. Not a safe assumption here in the states.

Also my standard disclaimer applies.. if you ever bring your rig to the dealer lock the glove box and keep the key blade with you! Same guys mixing up these bolts are the ones breaking recirc doors.
 
Thanks for doing this @bloc! I’m not sure I got those put back right after my first oil change.

Seems like 26 fasteners of three different types is needlessly complex, but like you say, must be a reason for it.
 
Thanks for this simple piece of info ... it came in handy today.
 
Thanks for documenting this! I recently changed the oil in my 2011 for the first time since picking it up last year and there was quite the hodgepodge of bolts and washers under there. Happy to order some missing bolts and get it back how it is supposed to be!
 
What’s the thread pitch on the M8s?
I’ve gone down a road of rust and broken bolts from careless lube techs. The front pieces even had self tappers holding them together. It was a work of art.
 
What’s the thread pitch on the M8s?
I’ve gone down a road of rust and broken bolts from careless lube techs. The front pieces even had self tappers holding them together. It was a work of art.
M8x1.25 & M6x1.0 if anyone needs those.

Self tappers. From someone that probably considers themself a mechanic.
 
I took the pictures here and put it in a PDF so I can print it out and bring under the car for reference. It's easier than looking at a tablet or phone if we need a reminder what goes where.
 

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  • lc200_skidplate.pdf
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So after a while of letting people work on it, the 12mm head bolts get all mixed up.

Car had more purple than red (only 2 reds) on the front skid not like Bloc's.
But I think it is safe to get all purple bolts for the front plate so it's less confusing.

They seem to me a bit excess in length, they hold like 2 lb of sheet metal. The tip of it get rust and sand on it. Then if seized can break the weld nut or strip.

Here is a picture I found on this forum. Can see the first set of bolts are mixed up but it is ok.

1699056407215.jpeg
 
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So after a while of letting people work on it, the 12mm head bolts get all mixed up.

Car had more purple than red (only 2 reds) on the front skid not like Bloc's.
But I think it is safe to get all purple bolts for the front plate so it's less confusing.

They seem to me a bit excess in length, they hold like 2 lb of sheet metal. The tip of it get rust and sand on it. Then if seized can break the weld nut or strip.
Been there done that. Just today I had the three front purple holes welded, drilled and tapped. All three were sheered off. Used M8 stainless steel grade 8 bolts but I’m putting on Rivals skids.
 
Hey what’s the thread pitch on the 4 M10s holding the trans cover? 1.25 like the M8s?
 
Does anyone recommend a good bolt kit or bundle? Or, is it just easier to swing by the dealer and get some OEM ones?
 
Transmission cover does.
Gotcha. So, I noticed that the engine skid plate is missing some of the m8 bolts. It’s not going anywhere but one side is sitting a little lower as a result and it’s bothering me. I also need the bolts that attach those plastic splash guards that attach to either side of it. Does those only need the m6 bolts? Or, are there additional fasteners? Thanks
 

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