John Staton
SILVER Star
I doubt it would make much of a diff....doesn't really start flowing until right when you remove it...just be fast at the end.
Oil change rookie mistake (1 Viewer)
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I doubt it would make much of a diff....doesn't really start flowing until right when you remove it...just be fast at the end.
The one thing that may have happened is the washer fell off and you didn’t see it go.
Or did you intentionally reuse it? Don’t worry, not a rookie mistake. Get a clean tub, drain the oil
and replace the washer. Make sure you check the mating surface on the oil pan to
remove crud and burnt on oil. Gotta understand, it’s probably not the washer so much as
its easy to get any amount of very small hard particulate matter in there that allows a seep.
So just drain, replace washer, scrub the drain hole and the plug. Replace the washer
and know it’s just something to go through.
Or did you intentionally reuse it? Don’t worry, not a rookie mistake. Get a clean tub, drain the oil
and replace the washer. Make sure you check the mating surface on the oil pan to
remove crud and burnt on oil. Gotta understand, it’s probably not the washer so much as
its easy to get any amount of very small hard particulate matter in there that allows a seep.
So just drain, replace washer, scrub the drain hole and the plug. Replace the washer
and know it’s just something to go through.
John Staton
SILVER Star
Anyone know the Toyota Part number ..... is it 90430-12031 ???
Some of the posts talk about a crush washer but my 60 has always had a fiber washer.
Thats what these guys sell Oil Drain Plug Gasket - 17mm - FJ40, FJ45, FJ60 1982-1987
I got mine local at Napa part number 704-1959
Thats what these guys sell Oil Drain Plug Gasket - 17mm - FJ40, FJ45, FJ60 1982-1987
I got mine local at Napa part number 704-1959
- Thread starter
- #26
I used this stuff, per recommendation from a friend who knows his stuff: Amazon product ASIN B076ZQ4KDK
The old crush washer is definitely on there. I did clean it, the drain plug, and the area around the drain hole.
I reckon I’ll try to drive it a bit and see if the heat changes anything... maybe stuff will expand a little or something. Might also try cracking the bolt loose and re-tightening to see if it gets a better seal. Last resort would be either the RTV seal or the crush washer switcheroo. By the way, excuse my ignorance but what is RTV?
Thanks for all the replies! Did not expect so many for this silly question.
Liqui Moly 'Moly Gen' is good oil, for a MODERN engine ...
RTV = Room Temp Vulcanizer.
RTV = Room Temp Vulcanizer.
- Thread starter
- #28
Gotcha thanks. So you’d recommend a different oil?
A high zinc oil for flat tappet engines. You will find hundreds of opinions here and on other car forums but I use Valvoline VR1 race oil.
You can research the subject to death here and also find out which oils have higher zinc content.
You can research the subject to death here and also find out which oils have higher zinc content.
- Thread starter
- #30
Lol I knew this would be a can of worms. Thanks for the gentle explanation. What weight do you typically run?
FishTacos
Full Globetard
I always add ZDDP additive when I change oil. 2 little bottles. STP makes a ZDDP additive and I think amsoil does too. Some diesel engine oils have zinc in them. There are oil politics that I don't care to engage in, though. Most important thing IMO is to never neglect oil changes. The only downside to changing your oil more frequently is the cost.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Yes, a large can of worms, and to each his own...as long as you stay within certain perimeters for our flat tappet engines.
I have two 2f engines...in my recently rebuilt 2f I use Delo 400 15w-40 non Syn. In my other 2f that has 50 k on it since the rebuild I use Mobil 1 15w-50 full syn.
But as @FishTacos said, a lot of oil politics on this subject. Do your research and pick what works for you.
I have two 2f engines...in my recently rebuilt 2f I use Delo 400 15w-40 non Syn. In my other 2f that has 50 k on it since the rebuild I use Mobil 1 15w-50 full syn.
But as @FishTacos said, a lot of oil politics on this subject. Do your research and pick what works for you.
Those 'Modern' low-friction oils are supposed to be loaded with Moly, which is a friction reducer. Great for Turbo'd engine or engines that need a low-viscosity oil.
For your Flat-Tappet antique engine (you still have the 2F, right?).
For the money, this is the best:
10w40 or 20w50 depending on your summer temps.
You can order thru O'reilly to save on shipping.
For your Flat-Tappet antique engine (you still have the 2F, right?).
For the money, this is the best:
10w40 or 20w50 depending on your summer temps.
You can order thru O'reilly to save on shipping.
There are a couple of different crush washers: folded aluminum and solid aluminum. Plus there is a fiber washer. I use the fiber washer for the oil pan Drain.
forum.ih8mud.com
real time help Oil leak from drain plug
I have a little issue. I have a pretty good size leak coming from my drain plug. It's not like it's flowing or anything, but a drip every 15-30 sec. That's a lot after a while. About two quarts in a week and a half. Changed the plug and gasket with a new one and still leaking. Ugghhh! Any...
forum.ih8mud.com
I believe this is correct. The oil plug is a fiber washer. They are as cheap of a part as you will ever get for your cruiser. No need for OEM, but even those are cheap. Just buy a bunch and you'll have them on hand for the next change. Replace them at oil changes. RTV should not be needed.
According to Toyota EPC there are a couple of different sizes depending on the year. My 1985 uses the 18mm ID I think.
rhah
Admit it, your cruisers jealous
finally someone with the smarts>>>> do what he says get a buddy hold the shop vac on the fill hole and take you plug out... will be no mess and you can take your time and do what you need to do.
as far as oil type/weight... been running castrol edge 5W30 since my rebuild in my 2f... change it with a k&n oil filter every 4k
i just hit 100k since rebuild on it with no issues as of yet. 15,000 miles on it this year alone
Let it drip! You will be changing the oil again soon enough. It's not like its going to bleed out. Throw some cardboard under the truck if you don't want a spot in your garage or on your driveway. First world problems.
Dyno
Dyno
A little rust protection too..Let it drip! You will be changing the oil again soon enough. It's not like its going to bleed out. Throw some cardboard under the truck if you don't want a spot in your garage or on your driveway. First world problems.
Dyno
