Do all your neighbors wonder about 'that guy with the wierd old Toyota' across the street? I would think you have the only FJ40 in the neighborhood.
Ohio Red 1978 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Chestcutter
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Chestcutter
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- #42
It does get a lot of points and stares. It's impossible to drive to the store without someone coming up to say "That's a great looking truck.....What is it exactly?"
Chestcutter
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There are a handful of NE OH 40s lurking. Another local 1981 was just added too.
Chestcutter
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- #46
Looking forward to meeting the new arrivals.
Continuing the suspension project today, now that the snow is mostly gone in NEO.
For the front springs, I ordered OME mediums, with stock hight greaesable shackles and pins, and 4 degree caster shims from Valley Hybrids.
First job was to get the old fronts out, which turned out to be much easier than the rears since these U-bolts were somewhat new and the nuts responded to the impact tool with no issue.
With the old ones out and perches cleaned up, next task was to marry the shims and springs. This kit came with longer Terrain Tamer spring bolts, which turn out to be quite a bit larger than the stock spring bolts.
Both the shims and leaf packs required drilling to accomodate the bigger bolt. This worked well at low speed on the drill press with plenty of cutting oil, doing the smaller leaves individually. First I used some big c-clamps to align the longer springs in the pack and marked leaves with a paint pen for reassembly.
Cheap Harbor Freight drill press has worked for me for 25 yrs, with a couple of belt changes.
Cut the extra off with the angle grinder and ready to roll for install.
Having a second cheap set of jack stands was very helpful for those of us without a lift to hold the axle in position while getting the springs mounted.
Positioning the pins in the forward hangers is a pain, and definitely benefitted from a second set of eyes / hands.
Chestcutter
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- Thread starter
- #47
Fronts in and mounted a lot easier than the rears. Having done it once I think this would be a 1.5 day job for me with frozen U-bolts, single day if not.
Result was about 1" off the lift in the rear and over 2 in the front
Not as dramatic as @wngrog achieved with Texas Red number one: Tale of 2 Texas Reds
But it looks right to my eye with the BFG 235/85/16s
Before
After
Road test:
Much kinder on the pothole infested Cleveland roads. Steering doesn't feel like it wants to jump off the road. Tracks much better and more comfortable overall. First time I have had it over 50 mph without the steering unmanageable. Very happy with the result of the 4 degree shims
Result was about 1" off the lift in the rear and over 2 in the front
Not as dramatic as @wngrog achieved with Texas Red number one: Tale of 2 Texas Reds
But it looks right to my eye with the BFG 235/85/16s
Before
After
Road test:
Much kinder on the pothole infested Cleveland roads. Steering doesn't feel like it wants to jump off the road. Tracks much better and more comfortable overall. First time I have had it over 50 mph without the steering unmanageable. Very happy with the result of the 4 degree shims
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Looks like you removed a 4” HFS with the long shackles. Looks much better.
next time don’t drill the spring packs. Go to Lowe’s and get a hex head grade 8 bolt.
next time don’t drill the spring packs. Go to Lowe’s and get a hex head grade 8 bolt.
Chestcutter
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- Thread starter
- #49
Thanks! I wasn't able to identify the lift until now. Will be posting that in classifieds soon with the old wheels and tires.
Feeling pretty dumb for not thinking of just swapping for a longer bolt. Although here Lowe's is unlikely to have anything in those grade 8 drawers.
Driving it to work for a few days before tackling the manifold project - time to get the other cars in the shop.
pb4ugo
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Dont you mean socket head cap screws? They are generally alloy and stronger than grade 8, plus have round heads. They are stronger than spring pins too.
Chestcutter
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- Thread starter
- #51
Socket head cap screw would have been perfect. I might even have had a box the right length. Hindsight. Don't know why I thought there was something special about the spring bolts.
Feeling pretty dumb for not thinking of just swapping for a longer bolt. Although here Lowe's is unlikely to have anything in those grade 8 drawers.
Forgive yourself - it was an honest mistake made while doing honest work! That stance of your truck looks great now.
Forgive yourself - it was an honest mistake made while doing honest work! That stance of your truck looks great now.
pb4ugo
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I've periodically broken spring pin bolts from trail riding or they were severely bent when I would remove rear ends for whatever reason. Once I went to SHCS I've never had a problems with spring pins.
- Joined
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Spring pins break when ubolts get loose most often.
firemanj92
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Also look at your local Fastenal for nuts and bolts, much better option than HD or Lowes
Chestcutter
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- #56
How often are folks checking / retorquing the ubolts?
pb4ugo
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Since all your stuff is new I would re-torque them maybe in 2 to 6 months, depending on how much you drive. Things gotta settle in.
Chestcutter
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- Thread starter
- #58
Thanks. Daily driver at the moment but only a few miles. Will have a go in a couple of months.
New lift looks great! now you will not be sweating the parking garages.
Chestcutter
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- Thread starter
- #60
Yeah makes driving into work way less hairy. I was ducking my head before. Like that helps.
