Notice anything extra or out of place?

[JtBrown]

When you guys installed the spacer did you have to do anything with KDSS? I had a dealer saying 5+ hours to install and replacement of parts in system to add this small part... I may try to tackle myself if that's the case, anyone near Frederick MD who can lend a hand : )...

 

[MScruiser]

Yes. Just abut any suspension mod will require messing with the KDSS.

 

[sage1]

When you guys installed the spacer did you have to do anything with KDSS? I had a dealer saying 5+ hours to install and replacement of parts in system to add this small part... I may try to tackle myself if that's the case, anyone near Frederick MD who can lend a hand : )...

Another member just posted that he had his spacers installed for 191-. As far as I know there is no need for any additional parts. Above is a link to a video with step by step instructions on front shock replacement, same steps to install the spacers.

 

[tempestv8]

When you guys installed the spacer did you have to do anything with KDSS?

The valve screws on the KDSS block needs to be unwound approximately 2.5 turns but absolutely no more than 3 turns so that the front suspension can droop down more. The vehicle needs to be jacked up at the front to the point where both front wheels are lifted off the ground completely, before you can attempt to remove the front strut. The front sway bar will need to be disconnected to allow the lower wishbone to drop away further. Even with the sway bar disconnected, someone will need to stand on the front disc just to get the required amount of droop to be able to pull away the front strut assembly.

I consider the job of installing the spacer to be a two person job so if you don't have someone there to help you, don't even attempt to do this on your own. That's my experience, having to remove my front struts on 3 separate occasions.

 

[JtBrown]

Thanks for the replies, I feel like these so called certified techs don't have a clue about their cars and try to kill you because you have a expensive rig.

I will try to find a independent shop close to me that has experience on kdss before I attempt the install.

 

[JtBrown]

@tempestv8

I'm assuming when you turn Allen key for kdss, you go counterclockwise?

 

[MScruiser]

The valve screws on the KDSS block needs to be unwound approximately 2.5 turns but absolutely no more than 3 turns so that the front suspension can droop down more. The vehicle needs to be jacked up at the front to the point where both front wheels are lifted off the ground completely, before you can attempt to remove the front strut. The front sway bar will need to be disconnected to allow the lower wishbone to drop away further. Even with the sway bar disconnected, someone will need to stand on the front disc just to get the required amount of droop to be able to pull away the front strut assembly.

I consider the job of installing the spacer to be a two person job so if you don't have someone there to help you, don't even attempt to do this on your own. That's my experience, having to remove my front struts on 3 separate occasions.

It is most definitely not a 2 man job. I have done it at least 4 times in my driveway, all by my lonesome.

As to getting the droop needed to get the struts installed: you can remove the two bolts that connect the hub assembly to the LCA; this helps tremendously.

 

[Willy beamin]

The IFS expert has spoken

 

[MScruiser]

Lol

 

[MScruiser]

@JtBrown , I hope I didn't come off as a smart ass above; I just don't want to scare off the DIY'ers and have them pay big money when they could have done it themselves for free.

 

[arich]

One man job but I've only done it 6 times. There isn't a bolt or screw in the front end that I have not screwed with.

I just had to pull the BP 51s for a "quick" adjustment. First use a paint pen and mark all the alignment settings then I found the easiest way to get the struts out is to drop the two bolts as Andrew said above. These are right under/behind the disc brake. If you can find the lower ball joint you can miss these. Support the spindle with bungie cords nice and high. THEN remove the lower strut bolt and swaybar linkage. THEN loosen the lower control arm bolts. The lower control arm should just swing out of the way.
IF it doesn't you adjustment cams might be rusted/corroded like mine were. Since replacing and applying antiseize mine swing like they're wearing boxer shorts.
NEXT remove the 4 bolts at the top of the strut and strut will slide right out the bottom. THIS is SO much easier than removing the steering linkage and breaking the upper ball joint as I've done in the past.

Can you visual this? I can try and write up a step by step if anyone thinks this is an easier way.

 

[JtBrown]

One man job but I've only done it 6 times. There isn't a bolt or screw in the front end that I have not screwed with.

I just had to pull the BP 51s for a "quick" adjustment. First use a paint pen and mark all the alignment settings then I found the easiest way to get the struts out is to drop the two bolts as Andrew said above. These are right under/behind the disc brake. If you can find the lower ball joint you can miss these. Support the spindle with bungie cords nice and high. THEN remove the lower strut bolt and swaybar linkage. THEN loosen the lower control arm bolts. The lower control arm should just swing out of the way.
IF it doesn't you adjustment cams might be rusted/corroded like mine were. Since replacing and applying antiseize mine swing like they're wearing boxer shorts.
NEXT remove the 4 bolts at the top of the strut and strut will slide right out the bottom. THIS is SO much easier than removing the steering linkage and breaking the upper ball joint as I've done in the past.

Can you visual this? I can try and write up a step by step if anyone thinks this is an easier way.

This one is over my head but I +1 for detailed walk through with paypal

 

[JtBrown]

@arich btw depending where you are in NY maybe once I pick up my TLC I can have you do mine

 

[arich]

I'm not a mechanic, the only reason I've done it 6 times is because...................well I was never happy.

I do have someone who does do this on the side for you locally. Get in touch when you're ready.

 

[arich]

This one is over my head but I +1 for detailed walk through with paypal

It'll cost you a few beers

 

[Willy beamin]

do a detailed write up when you have time please. This sounds like great info to have
thanks

 

[JtBrown]

@JtBrown , I hope I didn't come off as a smart ass above; I just don't want to scare off the DIY'ers and have them pay big money when they could have done it themselves for free.

not at all!

 

[JtBrown]

It'll cost you a few beers

Hell I would pay half of what it would cost at a dealer if done right!

 

[arich]

I'd pay twice as much as the dealer charges IF IT'S DONE RIGHT!!!!

 

[rcpalmer78]

Still so confused.... I'm in a 2014. Just put on some 285 70 R18 on stock wheels. No rubbing on UCAs. Was rubbing on front mudflaps, so they went away. Minor rubbing on the plastic on the front wheel well at full turn only. Planned on placing a spacer instead of trimming the plastic to see if that would help and I wanted to level out the truck anyway. Called my service guy at local dealership who does lifts and spacers too - usually on 4runners; regardless they know their way around kdss. He said there wasn't a spacer to level out the front. I gave him the oem part number above. He said that should already be on there so that wouldn't really help. Having read above it seems like there is consensus that it's not typically on the truck, even on a 2014? Is it easy to tell without taking everything down? I took a peek and couldn't appreciate if it was already there or not.

I did read the other thread
Front end spacers???

Seems like the answer is that it isn't there on a 2014. Certainly doesn't look like there is from 6 feet away. Appreciate the help.