'nother Blue Fan Clutch....drain and fill, no adjustment

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Antifreeze is to prevent freezing and reduce corrosion. Pure water will cool better, a lean antifreeze mixture will cool better than 50/50. You need ~20% for corrosion protection, so that is what lots of desert dwellers use. Most antifreeze have a chart of mixture to freezing point, running richer than the lowest temp the rig will ever see does no good.

Ok, point well taken. I'm just going by the 50/50 Toyota recommendation on the back of the Long Life Red bottle: a 50% mix protects from boiling up to 265º, and a 65% mix protects from boiling up to 273º. When my belts snapped my Scangauge water temp hit 269º - not that I expect my engine to see or handle that temp, but it's been there. And while boiling point and operating temp are two different things, I never would have thought the rig would run cooler on strictly distilled water or a 20% mix, but if you say it is true Tools I'll believe it, or better yet, try it. :cheers:

EDIT: After poking around a bit, it does look like there is a trend to run a leaner than 50% mix, with good results. Learn something new everyday, alot of that thanks to mud. Ok, so back to tinkering with the fan clutch...
 
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Which fan clutch is this?

Since I couldn't find a thread that identified the various models, could one of you more experienced fan clutch experts identify the one that is on this '97 LX450?

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It looks to be an Eaton unit, but not 100%. I am fairly certain the Eaton was factory installed on most 97's.

I am sure Tools might be be able to ID it from that angle. If you pull it, it might make the identification easier.
 
Off Topic, but do you actually use T-IV ATF in your rig?

No, I use either Amspoil or Mobil Synthetic ATF fluid Dexron III. The T-IV ATF that you see in the pic is for my 04 Tacoma.
 
No, I use either Amspoil or Mobil Synthetic ATF fluid Dexron III. The T-IV ATF that you see in the pic is for my 04 Tacoma.



Ahh, ok

I was just curious as I've seen numerous warnings not to use it, but haven't actually seen the results of someone using it in their rigs....

Anyhoo, here's the clutch I pulled out of my 97....

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Upgraded to the blue as PM (no previous problems) and the only difference I can tell is the start up roar :meh:
 
... protects from boiling ...

There are lots of things in the auto world that are highly touted/trumpeted, that in actual use have little value or are irrelevant. Have you ever been over to the amsoil site? Those guys like to on and on,,, and on about minute details, most of which have little if any effect on anything in real motor operation. It's good advertising, make people think that; if you are not using our swill, you are not doing the best for your car, when in fact it makes little if any difference.

Boil over protection is largely one of those deals, more advertising to put on the bottle that is mostly meaningless. If it was about high boiling point, that is easy, just run oil. It is true that water boils at ~212F, too low for coolant use. We contain it in a closed system, using a pressure cap. IIRC for every pound the pressure goes up the boiling point goes up ~3F. The 1FZ uses a 13lb cap, so ~39F + ~212F = ~251F + whatever the coolant adds. So, yes, plain water will work, but lacks the corrosion inhibitors, etc.

There are products that are only the additives, mostly used in racing where every degree of cooling is crucial. For most uses, simply using the chart and mixing for the lowest temp that the rig will see is good. When I flush I add a gallon of antifreeze and top with water, that is good to ~6F, or colder than my rig will see.
 
^^^Sage words, and I plan to follow your advice and mix accordingly...and the Toyota Red has gotten pretty pricey as it is. Thanks!
 
Toyota Red maybe pricy, but an engine rebuild is much more expensive.
 
Toyota Red maybe pricy, but an engine rebuild is much more expensive.

Ha - of course. By why use 2 gallons of it when you may only need 1...
 
Toyota Red maybe pricy, but an engine rebuild is much more expensive.

What does Toyota Red have to do with causing or preventing an engine rebuild?:confused:
 
Point taken Tools
 
Ahh, ok

I was just curious as I've seen numerous warnings not to use it, but haven't actually seen the results of someone using it in their rigs....

Anyhoo, here's the clutch I pulled out of my 97....

bluefanclutch.JPG

bluefanclutch2.JPG

bluefanclutch3.JPG

bluefanclutch4.JPG

bluefanclutch5.JPG

bluefanclutch6.JPG

bluefanclutch7.JPG

bluefanclutch8.JPG

bluefanclutch9.JPG



Upgraded to the blue as PM (no previous problems) and the only difference I can tell is the start up roar :meh:

Looks like your blue fan clutch is the newer version with part number 16210-66020.
 
i have a asian green hub that came from a 3fe out of a 91 is this clutch any good, could u use it with 1fz?
 
The clutches have differing characteristics, some types stronger than others. I have setup...the new blue hub to ~25K and have never found the belt slip limit.

I found the belt slip limit with 30k cst fluid. My late model blue clutch ran continuously even with a cold motor and cold ambient air. Above 2800 rpm it squealed the belts a bit. I tried setting the thermostat to stay closed until it was a bit warmer and also tried removing some of the fluid with the thought that I may have overfilled it, all to no avail. I replaced the fluid with 15k and it now quiets down after the cold start-up roar.
 
how exactly do you fill it with oil? While it's split open?
 
how exactly do you fill it with oil? While it's split open?
Yes.




On a separate note--do not, under any circumstances, put cookware with a significant remnant of silicone in the dish washer. I recommend hand washing with a strong kitchen solvent instead. :hillbilly:
 
***Bump***

Getting ready to modify my new blue aisin fan clutch. I replaced the factory 1997 fan clutch but had a little boil over at 6500' while fill up with gas, lost about 1/2 cup. While moving im holding 187-190 but with the recent California heat in drive thru and sitting im getting up to 221 which didn't start till after the boil over.

My cooling system is all new, about 3 months old, every hose, every clamp, tstat, waterpump, fan, fanclutch.

Im not hearing the "roar" when i start her up anymore with a 3 month old fan clutch. Reading this post, i didnt think to check my belts for tightness, ill do this after work today.

Is everyone happy with their fan clutch mod? Would you do anything different? I see Wits uses 15k and adjusts the valve down to 95 degrees.
Would any of you recommend this adjustment?

Based on my reading here it sounds vest to modify the aisin blue fan clutch and leave the original 1997 possibly eaton alone?

I have seen on mud some use 60ml of 15k-30k cst with success.

Thanks MUD!!!
 

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