not sure whether to switch to rear discs or not (1 Viewer)

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Why do you need a prop valve if you are using a 80 series disc brake master?
I thought that was the reason for using it.. to get away from a prop valve?

That pic I posted was form jto's site..and I see no valve
 
Bennett said:
Why do you need a prop valve if you are using a 80 series disc brake master?
I thought that was the reason for using it.. to get away from a prop valve?

That pic I posted was form jto's site..and I see no valve


Good question. I'm not sure if it is need or not. The PO had it on there and everything worked so I didn't screw with it. It is possible they took the guts out of it. All I know is my 4wdisk brake work perfect with this master.

I only mentioned the prop valve which is stock toyota on a 76 because a didn't want people going out buying this master and then things going wrong. Brakes are not something to take lightly. In fact it really disturbs me as to how many cruisers I have been around that you either have to pump the brake twice to get it to stop or they only have a few brakes working. Having drums is a major hastle and I think a lot of new buyers of cruisers don't realize the maint involved in making them safe. Switching to disk brake takes a lot of the maint out. And make them a lot more reliable.
 
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Drums + Adjusting (or lack of) + Mud = PITA, No Stop or PULL HARD RIGHT...if you intend to keep drums carry some form of high-pressure sprayer (to blast the mud out from behind the axle!) I am SO switching to 4-wheel disc sometime after i finish the P/S and Cage but before I go to 35's, get a locker, or go SOA
 
i just got front disks on my 70 fj and its stops great. i found out later after an hour and a half of braking ( no down shifting) on a moutnain road that my rear drums weren't working at all. All i can say is they did well and next time i bet it will be even better stopping power with the rear drums hooked up. haha

rear drums give it sorta some more stoppign power but not enough to notice. Its mainly an upgraded booster and front disks that you will notice and the rear drums will definatly last longer.
 
cardinal fang said:
Go here and read about doing the conversion for a lot less than BTB will charge.

Very cool write up, thanks for posting.

Rezarf <><
 
Wasnt there something about doing a conversion with a different caliper that had the emergency brake provision on it? Maybe like an eldorado caliper or something like that?
 
Trollhole said:
Good question. I'm not sure if it is need or not. The PO had it on there and everything worked so I didn't screw with it. It is possible they took the guts out of it. All I know is my 4wdisk brake work perfect with this master.

I only mentioned the prop valve which is stock toyota on a 76 because a didn't want people going out buying this master and then things going wrong. Brakes are not something to take lightly. In fact it really disturbs me as to how many cruisers I have been around that you either have to pump the brake twice to get it to stop or they only have a few brakes working. Having drums is a major hastle and I think a lot of new buyers of cruisers don't realize the maint involved in making them safe. Switching to disk brake takes a lot of the maint out. And make them a lot more reliable.
I use a 92-93 master cylinder because the proportioning is already built into the master cylinder. That stock prop valve is prone to degrading your brake fluid due to internal rust that occurs from moisture in the brake fluid. Personally, I would get rid of it.
78FJ40 18.jpg
 
Just another vote for doing the conversion to rear disks. I had been considering the change on my '78 FJ40; a leaking rear cylinder and checking the price of a complete rear rebuild was all I needed to convince me.

I used the TSM kit and have been very pleased with it and the results. There is no comparison between the before and after stopping and control.
 
Pin_Head said:
X3

Good rear drums do a good job with less than 35s. Rear disks have the advantage of retaining the axle in case you break one, but this is less likely with smaller tires.


#1 reason to go RDB, if you break a rear axle and it runs out, you have very little brakes........saw a sweet FJ60 roll twice due to this.
Butch
 
RDB are the way to go...my conversion has been on for 12 years I just changed the rotors...200,000 miles on them...the pads i only changed 3 times, its easy to do brakes ....it stops alot better...it still stops even when flodded wet...and my best reason is that you dont have to adjust them like the crappy unself adjusting rear drums, every three months i would be adjusting the drums, even in the owners manual it said to adjust every 3 months, poor design for us lasy americans :)
 

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