I've read a lot of write ups on rear disk conversion. They always machine the chevy rotors out to fit the flange. Why don't the machine the flange down to fit the rotors? That way when you need to replace the rotor it's a stock part.
I've read a lot of write ups on rear disk conversion. They always machine the chevy rotors out to fit the flange. Why don't the machine the flange down to fit the rotors? That way when you need to replace the rotor it's a stock part.
I was debating going disk on my 1978 FJ-40. Two big things convinced me:
1.) To get the old drums off I had to weld metal chunks onto the old drum and whack them with a sledge to get them off (the adjusters are all the way back, and the drums I have don't have the threaded hole to use a bolt to pop them off)
2.) When I was trying to get one drum off, here's the sand that poured out. Hard to see in the pic how high the pile is, but it is at least 3/4 to a full cup. This had been a daily driver before going into storage about 7 years ago:
I was debating going disk on my 1978 FJ-40. Two big things convinced me:
1.) To get the old drums off I had to weld metal chunks onto the old drum and whack them with a sledge to get them off (the adjusters are all the way back, and the drums I have don't have the threaded hole to use a bolt to pop them off)
2.) When I was trying to get one drum off, here's the sand that poured out. Hard to see in the pic how high the pile is, but it is at least 3/4 to a full cup. This had been a daily driver before going into storage about 7 years ago:
I will chime in even though it has been said before. I run disks up front, drums out back (adjusted properly) they work great... and I am running 35's on my DD.
The ONLY time that I wish I had rear disks is when I am forced to back down something steep, then the 80/20 front to rear bias is reversed and the drums are a bit scary, every where else they stop strong and straight.
Good rear drums do a good job with less than 35s. Rear disks have the advantage of retaining the axle in case you break one, but this is less likely with smaller tires.
I love the rear brakes on my 55...It's a huge improvement over old disc/drums which appeared to be in good shape. It stops very straight and quickly...plus changing pads is much easier than messing with drums...
I've read a lot of write ups on rear disk conversion. They always machine the chevy rotors out to fit the flange. Why don't the machine the flange down to fit the rotors? That way when you need to replace the rotor it's a stock part.
Not bashing MAF or anyone, but you are still purchasing a kustom piece at a kustom price from a kustom vendor. It is not a ‘readily available’ part anyplace in the country that would not require any further modification, which if I understand the post correctly, was what he was trying to avoid.
rear disc's were one of the best mods i ever did, stops so much better and no leaks or adjustments. i hate to say it but i got my master (FZJ 80) and disc's from www.jtoutfitters.com and got the rear stainless braided lines from www.tsm.com and stainless front lines and the ones from frame to axle from www.man-a-fre.com i got the rear calipers for free. these sources may not be the cheapest, they are just were i got mine. i also run 35's though. good luck!
Has anyone had experience with converting to rear disks on a late model 40? I have an '82 FJ40 with stock split case, and parking brakes on the axle. The only information I have been able to find is the TSM kit - seems pretty pricey.
No need for a porportioning valve if you will run a 1990 Toyota Supra Master Cyl. (non ABS) They are set up for 4wheel disc. I know of 2 that are working great. My .02.
No need for a porportioning valve if you will run a 1990 Toyota Supra Master Cyl. (non ABS) They are set up for 4wheel disc. I know of 2 that are working great. My .02.