not sure whether to switch to rear discs or not (1 Viewer)

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I've read a lot of write ups on rear disk conversion. They always machine the chevy rotors out to fit the flange. Why don't the machine the flange down to fit the rotors? That way when you need to replace the rotor it's a stock part.
 
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You break an axle and you are fawked. That is unless you are carrying your 'special' spare rear axles.
 
rusty_tlc said:
I've read a lot of write ups on rear disk conversion. They always machine the chevy rotors out to fit the flange. Why don't the machine the flange down to fit the rotors? That way when you need to replace the rotor it's a stock part.


Look at the pictures of this.....you do not want to turn the end of the axle down, as the ridge forms the pilot to keep the rotor centered.



Really do not know how often you would be changing out a rotor...I have not needed to change out a rear rotor in 14+ years...


But if you are seriously concerend about this, have a couple spares machined at the same time...



Good luck!



-Steve
 
I was debating going disk on my 1978 FJ-40. Two big things convinced me:
1.) To get the old drums off I had to weld metal chunks onto the old drum and whack them with a sledge to get them off (the adjusters are all the way back, and the drums I have don't have the threaded hole to use a bolt to pop them off)

2.) When I was trying to get one drum off, here's the sand that poured out. Hard to see in the pic how high the pile is, but it is at least 3/4 to a full cup. This had been a daily driver before going into storage about 7 years ago:
Sand from rear drum.JPG
 
Soul_Man said:
I was debating going disk on my 1978 FJ-40. Two big things convinced me:
1.) To get the old drums off I had to weld metal chunks onto the old drum and whack them with a sledge to get them off (the adjusters are all the way back, and the drums I have don't have the threaded hole to use a bolt to pop them off)

2.) When I was trying to get one drum off, here's the sand that poured out. Hard to see in the pic how high the pile is, but it is at least 3/4 to a full cup. This had been a daily driver before going into storage about 7 years ago:

Ya, and from what I hear, adding grease zerks and keeping them really lubed up is an inexpesive mod and makes em last a long time. :D :flipoff2:
Sand from rear drum.JPG
 
HawkDriver said:
Ya, and from what I hear, adding grease zerks and keeping them really lubed up is an inexpesive mod and makes em last a long time. :D :flipoff2:


Hardee Har Har :rolleyes: :D

That's what's left of a 1/2" nut I welded on to beat the BFH against. Totally flattened the nut, that thing didn't want to come off.....
 
I will chime in even though it has been said before. I run disks up front, drums out back (adjusted properly) they work great... and I am running 35's on my DD.

The ONLY time that I wish I had rear disks is when I am forced to back down something steep, then the 80/20 front to rear bias is reversed and the drums are a bit scary, every where else they stop strong and straight.

Hmmm. 8 tracks....


Rezarf <><
 
What about the fact that if you break an axle with disc brakes, the axle and wheel don't depart and leave you stranded completely.
 
Pin_Head said:
Good rear drums do a good job with less than 35s. Rear disks have the advantage of retaining the axle in case you break one, but this is less likely with smaller tires.
DavidW said:
What about the fact that if you break an axle with disc brakes, the axle and wheel don't depart and leave you stranded completely.
A day late and a dollar short. :rolleyes:
 
I love the rear brakes on my 55...It's a huge improvement over old disc/drums which appeared to be in good shape. It stops very straight and quickly...plus changing pads is much easier than messing with drums...
 
rusty_tlc said:
I've read a lot of write ups on rear disk conversion. They always machine the chevy rotors out to fit the flange. Why don't the machine the flange down to fit the rotors? That way when you need to replace the rotor it's a stock part.
MAF carries a DBA rotor manufactured specifically for this conversion. No machining
 
lcwrench said:
MAF carries a DBA rotor manufactured specifically for this conversion. No machining



Not bashing MAF or anyone, but you are still purchasing a kustom piece at a kustom price from a kustom vendor. It is not a ‘readily available’ part anyplace in the country that would not require any further modification, which if I understand the post correctly, was what he was trying to avoid.



:beer:
 
brian said:
seems like a hassle, for something that does'nt go that fast anyway.
mines stops pretty good just by lifting off the gas pedal.


Could be viewed that way, but larger tires tax drum brakes period.


But I guess that 31's will take you everywhere you should go.


:beer:
 
Poser said:
Could be viewed that way, but larger tires tax drum brakes period.


But I guess that 31's will take you everywhere you should go.


:beer:


33's :cheers:
they don't seem to be over working anything, brakes get looked at every 6months or so.

i did'nt have the 35's on long, but i could see how anything over them could use rear discs.
 
rear disc's were one of the best mods i ever did, stops so much better and no leaks or adjustments. i hate to say it but i got my master (FZJ 80) and disc's from www.jtoutfitters.com and got the rear stainless braided lines from www.tsm.com and stainless front lines and the ones from frame to axle from www.man-a-fre.com i got the rear calipers for free. these sources may not be the cheapest, they are just were i got mine. i also run 35's though. good luck!
 
Has anyone had experience with converting to rear disks on a late model 40? I have an '82 FJ40 with stock split case, and parking brakes on the axle. The only information I have been able to find is the TSM kit - seems pretty pricey.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Jim Dahlquist
 
No need for a porportioning valve if you will run a 1990 Toyota Supra Master Cyl. (non ABS) They are set up for 4wheel disc. I know of 2 that are working great. My .02.

Later,
 
Bodean said:
No need for a porportioning valve if you will run a 1990 Toyota Supra Master Cyl. (non ABS) They are set up for 4wheel disc. I know of 2 that are working great. My .02.

Later,

What about a fj80 master.. do they bolt up to the booster as well with no mods?
 
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Bennett said:
What about a fj80 master.. do they bolt up to the booster as well with no mods?

yes but I'm using an 76 fj40 stock prop valve. You can see it under the master.

IMG_2548.JPG
 

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