Rusto
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- Thread starter
- #41
Thanks @Prairie Swamp - I appreciate the reality check. I will definitely be practicing. both with the file and the sandpaper to see what seems to work best.
Not Needed (hopefully): Over-priced Machine Shop with experience resurfacing 2F intake/exhaust manifolds (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rusto
- Start date
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The Remflex are much more forgiving than the stock graflex gasket, as far as uneven mating surfaces go. I've removed manifold assys that used the remflex and the gasket just crumbled to pieces, so for a long time I was not a fan... However, I recently replaced the J-tube gasket after multiple failures with the remflex and so far so good, particularly the temp rating of 3000K F.
I think the main problem with the Remflex is people Over-Torque them because they think the stated Remflex values are too loose. I guess that's why they now put them in big RED letters
GL!
I think the main problem with the Remflex is people Over-Torque them because they think the stated Remflex values are too loose. I guess that's why they now put them in big RED letters
GL!
Rusto
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- Thread starter
- #43
Got the carb off yesterday with no issues. 20ish labeled vacuum lines. Intake manifold looked clean on the inside.
Pretty easy to tell where the exhaust leak is happening.
Next up, air rail, then other connected bits. Hopefully get the manifolds out tonight or tomorrow.
Pretty easy to tell where the exhaust leak is happening.
Next up, air rail, then other connected bits. Hopefully get the manifolds out tonight or tomorrow.
DFXR
SILVER Star
Yes. Though it does look like you have some carbon built up on the manifold just inboard from the carb. Sadly there is no reason why you can't have more than one leak. Lots of places for it to happen. Mine was leaking from the same air rial nozzle as yours, as well as the manifold gasket.
You could take the high road and source an air rail and continue with your manifold gasket while you wait for it to show up.
Or you could take the "low" road and source the air rail, install and run it to see if it was the culprit. Maybe wishful thinking but who knows?
Rusto
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- Thread starter
- #47
@DFXR , yeah, the carbon build up had me thinking it was the manifold.
I think I'll keep going, check for warpage, replace gasket, etc, while I source an air rail.
This one has been repaired once before, it looks like, with JB weld. Read on here somewhere where JB weld, a strip of aluminum from a can and a couple of hose clamps fixed an air rail leak, but this one is probably too far gone for that. - that would be a different road altogether.
I think I'll keep going, check for warpage, replace gasket, etc, while I source an air rail.
This one has been repaired once before, it looks like, with JB weld. Read on here somewhere where JB weld, a strip of aluminum from a can and a couple of hose clamps fixed an air rail leak, but this one is probably too far gone for that. - that would be a different road altogether.
batthewmrown
SILVER Star
Ah, s***. I think the removing the air rail is my biggest fear with this impending job. I'm sure you'll be able to find a replacement. Have you considered going the de-smog route? I've got limited understanding on the process because I'm in Denver, but I think it deletes the air rail. Also not sure if La Plata Co does smog check. Either way, I'm rooting for ya.
Desmog that thing, delete air pump.
Make it more reliable, jerk all that crap off and never look back. Should notice a very slight increase in power, bout like adding a set of headers.
not my local shop, he chucks it up in his mill and mills it flat, he doesn't weld the horns either.
last one was $225 I think,
he's done 4 or 5 for me thru the years
he is a very old school guy,
not the lightest piece to try and hold flat on a belt sander.
that has been apart before, nice PO hack fix.
always use 2 wrenches in removing the air rail at each port.
lcolon
SILVER Star
Someone really hacked that air rail. I would probably try to source a new one and get the correct fitting that screws into the head. A piece of advice that was given to me was to pull all of those fittings out, wire wheel them, and use anti-seize when you replace them. I am actually just in the final assembly stages of pulling my manifold off due to a vacuum leak at the gasket. The other suggestion is that you carefully inspect the under carb area in the manifold for cracks. I have gone through 2 of them and both cracked. If you pull it off, it is definitely worth getting the combination to a reputable machine shop to have them thoroughly checked and decked. I obtained a relatively cheap machinists straight edge from summit racing that is long enough to check not only the block but also the edge of the manifolds. As others have said, if this is the first time off, it is likely warped.
For inspiration I have attached a picture of my manifold after it came back from the machine shop - crack welded up, ceramic coat of the exhaust manifolds, new hardware, manifold split and gasket replaced, decked flat.
Living in CA smog is a reality so I just live with having to maintain all the equipment. Since the manifold was out - I also put in the SOR stainless J Pipe and a saginaw pump (kit courtesy of Valley Hybrids @orange45 here on mud). If you have any questions about power steering or your smog pump, the time to address it is without the manifold in the way.
I also put a picture of the crack down the center of the manifold for your reference... The only way to fix it is to have a competent shop with experience weld it up.
For inspiration I have attached a picture of my manifold after it came back from the machine shop - crack welded up, ceramic coat of the exhaust manifolds, new hardware, manifold split and gasket replaced, decked flat.
Living in CA smog is a reality so I just live with having to maintain all the equipment. Since the manifold was out - I also put in the SOR stainless J Pipe and a saginaw pump (kit courtesy of Valley Hybrids @orange45 here on mud). If you have any questions about power steering or your smog pump, the time to address it is without the manifold in the way.
I also put a picture of the crack down the center of the manifold for your reference... The only way to fix it is to have a competent shop with experience weld it up.
Interesting that 3 puppies has a guy that does it on a mill. I have a Bridgeport, but it takes longer to set it up, and indicate it in than just using the file method. the assembly is so awkward it takes a lot of clamps and jack screws to get it level and rigid enough to take a cut.
Rusto
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- Thread starter
- #56
@lcolon - that is inspirational! Damn, that manifold looks so nice. I've already done the PS upgrade with kit from George. Turns like a Caddy now. Love it.
I was able to get the manifolds out yesterday. Pretty straightforward, really. Once all the desmog s***e is removed (definitely tempting to de-smog...), but I have the manifolds, off. One horn was loose, the other came off relatively easy. Hard gaskets looked good, so I won't be touching those.
One thing that is good about having the crappy mechanic do recent work was that the gasket easily highlights where the leaks were occurring. Plus the manifold to downpipe gasket crumbled in my hand, so.. another slight leak there.
Big question for now.... do I separate the intake and exhaust manifold to put in new gaskets? Thoughts and opinions are welcome of course...
I was able to get the manifolds out yesterday. Pretty straightforward, really. Once all the desmog s***e is removed (definitely tempting to de-smog...), but I have the manifolds, off. One horn was loose, the other came off relatively easy. Hard gaskets looked good, so I won't be touching those.
One thing that is good about having the crappy mechanic do recent work was that the gasket easily highlights where the leaks were occurring. Plus the manifold to downpipe gasket crumbled in my hand, so.. another slight leak there.
Big question for now.... do I separate the intake and exhaust manifold to put in new gaskets? Thoughts and opinions are welcome of course...
Big question for now.... do I separate the intake and exhaust manifold to put in new gaskets? Thoughts and opinions are welcome of course...
Squirt it all w/PB Blaster overnight and remove the 5 bolts holding the pair together. Go easy - don't strip anything out.
Squirt it all w/PB Blaster overnight and remove the 5 bolts holding the pair together. Go easy - don't strip anything out.
lcolon
SILVER Star
Personally - I would now give the whole manifold to the machine shop. Let them split them, check for cracks, realign it properly, and deck it
One more comment - the vacuum fitting on the right side of the manifold where the brake booster line goes in - make sure that fitting is installed in the manifold when you put it back on the truck. The coolant extension coming out of the head interferes with installing that fitting afterwards (don't ask me how I know)
One more comment - the vacuum fitting on the right side of the manifold where the brake booster line goes in - make sure that fitting is installed in the manifold when you put it back on the truck. The coolant extension coming out of the head interferes with installing that fitting afterwards (don't ask me how I know)
Rusto
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- Thread starter
- #59
My challenge is that I don't have a machine shop to give it to. Farmington, NM is closest available and nobody I called gave me much confidence in dealing with it. Other options are to ship it somewhere. and funds are bit tight right now....
So, while it's good solid advice, I'm going to have to do this one myself and hope that all the expert assistance offered here is enough to help me do it correctly
