Not Needed (hopefully): Over-priced Machine Shop with experience resurfacing 2F intake/exhaust manifolds

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@mtbrown619 . I'm not paying 300, thats for sure. I'm willing to investigate the file option that @F226continental suggests, but I need to feel confident i can do it before I will. Don't want to make it worse, you know

@F226continental can you share more info on the file you use?

I'll begin the dismantle this weekend. Pb blaster soaking has begun...
 
F226continental said:
Wow $300 for less than 5 min work with a proper size belt sander!!
When I had access to a belt sander at work I felt bad charging folks more than $75.
now I do it for $150 with my trusty file. The local toyota dealer Still sends me 2 or 3 a year.
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Yeah, pretty nuts, eh? Needless to say, I'm not going that route. Can you give some more details of how you flatten yours with the file?
 
12-14“ flat bastard. Any Decent hardware store should have a decent selection. get you a selection of course to fine at least 3 files (Metal Files not wood) and start working the course file Across the manifolds (keep it flat don’t round the edges) after working the entire length, work 90 degrees to the first cut. (Which means keeping the file parallel to the length of the assembly). Then try 45 degree, keeping the cuts mixed up, ensures you are getting maximum metal removal and keeping flatness By not overworking one area, When you see progress switch to a finer file if you’re anal and need a better finish!

dont be scared to get a scrap piece of metal and go to town on it until you feel confident with the file. Very,very useful tool, start fondling it

just bought a nickelson 16” Flat bastard on Amazon for $38 I think I’ll try it on the next manifold I do. bigger is not gonna hurt here
 
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Rusto, since you haven’t done anything like this before I thought it might be helpful to Identify with your straight edge the low spots and put paint on them. Leave those areas for last. Once you get the file cutting good you should be able to notice areas not being cut, perfectly normal , just remember to not work one spot more than another.
you will be very satisfied with the result, as you should be.
 
on a call with some tech folks right now trying to get some stuff worked out with a customer. I'm a salesperson ("solution provider" in today's parlance) so I'm pretty useless.... which gives me time to be on MUD :).

Thank you very much for the tips @F226continental. I had similar thoughts on how to identify the low spots. Seems pretty straightforward and I feel pretty good about doing this, if I need to Time to search for a Flat Bastard! :).

I may have to rename this thread to "Not wanted - an overpriced machinist"
 
I've never done this, but next time I have a warped Int/Exh I am going to try the 'Sandpaper' method that is a cheap alternative for surfacing cylinder heads. Certainly redneck, but when budget is an issue.... There are a few vids on Youtube.

 
Dang @Spike Strip - I may even have to try the sandpaper route, combined with @F226continental 's method of getting the intake and exhaust manifolds close and see what happens. I like having the weight of the manifold and the flat surface to help with ensuring it's flat.
 
Rusto said:
Dang @Spike Strip - I may even have to try the sandpaper route, combined with @F226continental 's method of getting the intake and exhaust manifolds close and see what happens. I like having the weight of the manifold and the flat surface to help with ensuring it's flat.
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The KEY will be making sure the sandpaper (I'd use varying grit) is taped to a PERFECTLY FLAT surface. Some on youtube use a pane of safety glass or glass table top or metal table - whatever you use, first check it with a machinist's straight edge.

GL
 
How much tolerance do you think the gasket gives you when installing it correctly (@F226continental method)? I mean, it's a refined tractor motor from a 1939 GM, not a Ferrari... The file method seems pretty solid to me.

What do you guys think of using permatex's gas resistant gasket sealer in conjunction with the toyota gasket?

 
Borrego said:
How much tolerance do you think the gasket gives you when installing it correctly (@F226continental method)? I mean, it's a refined tractor motor from a 1939 GM, not a Ferrari... The file method seems pretty solid to me.

What do you guys think of using permatex's gas resistant gasket sealer in conjunction with the toyota gasket?

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That stuff will burn off in 50 miles and leave leaks. If you're gonna use anything at all, use K&W copper coat High temp in a can with a dauber swab.... NOT the spray stuff.

It's a lacquer based sealer and cures rock hard and won't burn/blow out.

Amazon product ASIN B000M8IGVU


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I second the copper coat good stuff for a quick fix, but after filing it will be better than new. ( because it is seasoned, aka it’s probably done most of the moving it’s gonna do in the first 30 years of life) Put a new gasket on and Trust it for 250 k
 
My reflex gaskets just showed up.
 
Another round of PB blaster on tonight.
The remflex gaskets do look beefier than than stock and fel-pro. And yes, @Spike Strip, they indicate no sealants. I don't like unnecessary sealants anyhow. I typically have the line of thought that Toyota OEM is the best, especially on Land Cruisers, and especially in the 80s (Peak Toyota in both years and Model, IMNSHO), but after reading quite a bit on MUD and elsewhere, the idea of a quality made gasket that takes into consideration the parts are 30 some- odd years old that are being mated together made sense to me over OEM. And hey, made in the U.SA.

We shall see. Oh, and I'll post pics here and in the exhaust sticky of the torque specs. Always seems to be debate about that, and they are different for Remflex.

(Scope Creep alert)

I've decided to change out the push rod cover gasket on the other side while I'm at it. It's leaking so I might as well take more s#it apart while I'm at it. Plus it's pretty cheap. Then I'll only have 5 or 6 other leaks to fix before I can start over.

Anyway, some good tips, pointer and ideas on here that are appreciated.
 
Pics

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Spike Strip said:
I've never done this, but next time I have a warped Int/Exh I am going to try the 'Sandpaper' method that is a cheap alternative for surfacing cylinder heads. Certainly redneck, but when budget is an issue.... There are a few vids on Youtube.
Click to expand...

I did this on a VW diesel head years ago. Abrasive paper on a woodworking jointer bed. Took a .010" banana warp from overheating out to less than .001" warp. Have pictures but it was over a decade ago I don't want to go digging.

Flat filing is not something that easy or intuitive for someone who is not experienced. @Rusto you're going to want to practice on something other than your car parts. It's very easy to butcher your project to the point of no return. @F226continental gives some good advice but you have to practice. I would advise finding a dead flat surface, using what I call spotting fluid (machininsts die), flat black spray paint to find the low spots, magic marker if you need to. I don't have one but an offcut from a granite or marble countertop place would work awesome for a surface plate. I would assume there's YouTube videos.

But yeah DIY to know it's done right and get it done for the cost of couple of quality files, some abrasive paper and some time.
 
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