No oil pressure when cranking new engine via starter

[HTown FJ40]

Hi all,

I have a '69 FJ40 and I'm doing a full frame off resto. I recently had the engine rebuilt and I have it and the transmission mounted on the frame. I don't yet have the body, wiring or fuel system back on the rig. Since it's a fresh engine, I wanted to turn it over a few times a week until I could get all of the other pieces back and actually fire the engine up. I hooked up a battery and switch to the starter so I could turn it over. The oil on the dip stick shows full and I had a full oil filter connected to the regulator and block lines. I disconnected the line coming from the regulator and I expected some oil to come out of the regulator while cranking it over. I even unbolted the regulator from the block, but there's no oil coming out when cranking via the starter. Is this normal? I'm hoping that the engine has to be running before oil pressure will start coming out of the regulator. The oil pressure was fine before the rebuild.

Sorry for long post...

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Splangy]

You should see some oil pressure but it’s possible you didn’t turn it over long enough.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Distributor seated all the way?

 

[HTown FJ40]

You should see some oil pressure but it’s possible you didn’t turn it over long enough.

Thanks for the reply Splangy, that's what I expected as well. I turned it over for about 15 seconds. I was getting nervous not seeing any oil, and didn't want to continue if there was a real problem with the pump.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Are you actually starting the engine, or just turning it over to keep stuff moving?

Are your plugs installed?

Distributor installed?

 

[HTown FJ40]

Distributor seated all the way?

I think so. I setup the timing based on one of the other threads using the bb window. The o-ring on the distributor is sitting flush with the block. I was expecting the o-ring to actually push down a bit further, but it seemed to be all the way down. The rotor spins when I turn the engine over.

 

[HTown FJ40]

Are you actually starting the engine, or just turning it over to keep stuff moving?

Are your plugs installed?

Distributor installed?

Just turning it over to keep things moving. I don't have the fuel system setup yet. Pretty much just the engine and trans bolted to the frame.

Yes, the plugs are installed and the distributer is also installed.

 

[Splangy]

I think so. I setup the timing based on one of the other threads using the bb window. The o-ring on the distributor is sitting flush with the block. I was expecting the o-ring to actually push down a bit further, but it seemed to be all the way down. The rotor spins when I turn the engine over.

That’s probably your problem. The o ring should sit within the ID of the distributor hole. Doesn’t sound like the distributor is seated all the way down.

 

[HTown FJ40]

That’s probably your problem. The o ring should sit within the ID of the distributor hole. Doesn’t sound like the distributor is seated all the way down.

Thanks Splangy, that bothered me when I seated the distributor, but I was running out of gas on that Sunday and moved on to other things. I'll try re-seating the distributor next weekend. Thanks again!

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I wouldn’t just turn that engine over just to do it. You’re going to jack up your rings and cylinders.

You’re going to want to seat those rings properly.

 

[emac]

post some pics of the dizzy install. I had a weird issue where the PO had used two OEM clamps welded together on a Delco Remy dizzy. Seems that used to be an "upgrade"! I didnt realize what the problem was (like you no oil pressure) until a Mudder pointed it out. Iwas swapped back to OE dizzy and used the double clamp, and it wouldnt seat all the way

 

[Dizzy]

I wouldn’t just turn that engine over just to do it. You’re going to jack up your rings and cylinders.

You’re going to want to seat those rings properly.

I've actually done it, hence 'Dizzy.' The first F in my '73 toasted its crank bearings. Luckily, a Mud member, who I never met before, gave me an F out of a pig, for free; this was back when Mud was still a toddler, now Mud can buy cigarettes, and, soon, beer, right? All of that for struggling with the clamp while adjusting timing.

 

[73FJ40]

I cranked my F engine with the plugs removed and got 35 psig at the oil pressure sender port on a 0-100 psig gauge. With the plugs out, the engine spins faster and doesn't put much stress on any bearings (Cranking with the plugs in place and developing say 130 psig in the combustion chamber puts almost 1,300 lbs of force on the connecting rod, )

My engine hadn't turned over by starter in over 20 years. Note, I wasn't concerned with seating new rings after a rebuild.

I did squirt an ounce or more of Marvel Mystery oil through each spark plug opening before cranking.

 

[HTown FJ40]

Here's a pic of the distributor o-ring sitting right above the block. When I tighten down the bolts on the clamp, I thought it might be pulling the dist closer to the block and moving that o-ring down into the block. Should that o-ring be below the block surface when fully seated and before the clamp is tightened?

 

[HTown FJ40]

I wouldn’t just turn that engine over just to do it. You’re going to jack up your rings and cylinders.

You’re going to want to seat those rings properly.

Thanks for the advise. When I picked up the engine from the shop, they asked how long before I actually cranked it up. I said a few months before body was back on frame, new wiring harness installed, fuel system, radiator, etc were all in place. They said to turn it over a few times a week. It was a fresh bored block with new pistons and rings. I think they were concerned about fresh metal getting surface rust. I'll lay off the starter button until I'm ready to actually fire it up.

 

[73FJ40]

"A picture is worth a thousand words"

The O ring has to sit inside the block in order to seal out the dirt and seal in the lubricant.

Also note that the bottom tip of the distributor is a flat blade, like a screwdriver, that has to fit in a slot in the oil pump shaft, as shown.

 

[HTown FJ40]

"A picture is worth a thousand words"

The O ring has to sit inside the block in order to seal out the dirt and seal in the lubricant.

Also note that the bottom tip of the distributor is a flat blade, like a screwdriver, that has to fit in a slot in the oil pump shaft, as shown.


View attachment 1819740

Thanks for the clarification, and that's a great diagram! I looked down into the hole with a flashlight when seating the dist and saw that slot. The o-ring not popping down into the block bothered me, but I was seeing the rotor turn when I hit the starter and assumed it was down far enough. I'll regroup next weekend. Thanks everyone for the quick and great advice!

 

[dbenke]

I have a reground (slightly) and cut off flat screwdriver that I put on a drill and spin the oil pump with out spinning the engine. Doesn't get the cylinder walls, but oils the bearings and valve train so it doesn't get spun dry.
A few drops of oil in the spark plug holes wont hurt either.

 

[emac]

Looks like you arent engaged into the oil pump. Dizzy rotor can spin without spinning the oil pump. Lube that o ring and get 'r seated all the way.

 

[RLMS]

I would Prime the engine first. Get all the oil to transfer to the top of the rockers,(crank the engine by hand in 90 degree inc's). using a drill and a flat head screwdriver. (Mod it by cutting the handle off.) Stick it in the dizzy hole and turn it with a drill. Once all the oil has come through all the rockers, re-set the timing to top dead and reset the dizzy. This ensures you don't ruin the bearings