FJ40 OEM Factory Starter 28100-60041 Intermittent “click” no crank. (1 Viewer)

[Ackcruisers]

I rebuilt and restored a factory OEM starter 28100-60041. I followed FSM precisely using all new parts.

The starter was bench tested and everything functioned as it should.

I have installed it and it works but every so often I turn the key and hear “click” but no crank. The video shows the issue.



- I have a grounding strap from lower mounting bolt to the frame brake junction screw (factory spec)

- battery has full charge

- ignition switch is new and harness wire has good continuity to starter.

- battery cable to starter is new

- no corrosion on battery post.

What am I missing? Anyone have any suggestions?

Note: I removed the gear reduction starter because I wanted to keep the truck stock. I like the sound of the OEM starter.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Well could be lots of things. Clean large ground cable from battery to engine block, I just installed 2/0 copper cables from battery to block and starter. I connect the old 2 size frame ground up to the same bolt on the block as the 2/0 cable. She cranks over much better now - was less than $50 delivered for the new cables. I really like cast on connection, not the funky bolt together emergency terminals.

In the early 2000's my OEM acted like yours. I took the solenoid (the thing with the yellow wire nut apart). The big copper contacts inside were badly pitted, burnt and corroded. I cleaned and squared them up with a file. Planned the commutator with crocus cloth and scraped the mica separators. Lube it up with Mystic JT6 after cleaning and put it back together. For about 10 years I move the rig 10 yards forward and then back just using the starter once or twice a year while the hydraulic clutch and brakes were out.

I have at one time taken all my switches apart and fixed them.

New stuff doesn't mean it works, especially no days - with no quality control people.

I would pull the starter, set it on the ground and step on it. Then use a set of jumper cables to engage the starter a dozen or two times ( ground attached to mounting flange, pos just touch the nut with the cable and see if it does any of the clicking crap. Maybe something is binding inside just a little - A couple dozen exercises might polish off the burrs. You need firm contact to the nut or it will just arc.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks @charliemeyer007…

I’ve got a good ground cable from starter lower bolt to frame. I’ve sanded the underside of the brake union to insure good contact. I’ve confirmed continuity from the negative post on the battery to the lower starter bolt and tested all grounding points including block.

The big B+ cable from battery + to starter solenoid stud is giving me 12.7 volts according to my multimeter. So all is good there.

I’ve also confirmed per FSM during bench test. The starter solenoid “clicks” then fires up the starter motor exactly as it should. I did this prior to install. I also did it again.

Removed from truck, used jumper cables to run from battery + to the solenoid + stud, negative jumper cables to negative on battery post and clamped it to the housing nose mounting bolt, ran pigtail from positive cable to the key on post on solenoid. The motor clicks and motor spins as it should.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Closing out this thread. The problem was a grounding issue. While I prefer powder coating over painting, the one problem with it is grounding. The inside of the casing and the ends cannot be powder coated. The starter needs direct contact with the nose of the starter to ground.

I learn by doing.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I like having a fair sized ground wire from the battery to the mounting bolt on the starter. I also have thick wire to the frame and the engine up front.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Yes, grounding as you point out @charliemeyer007 is essential. What I discovered is that when restoring or rebuilding the OEM starter, do not powder coat the inside of the field coil housing (the Yoke) 28120-41021. The core starter poles (there are 4 of them) need to ground to the case. The powder coating prohibits proper contact.

Also, the ends of the case and the 4 mounting screw holes should not be powder coated. It adds more steps in the restoration / rebuild process.