What's you really makin' there, boy?
New to the FJ60 world, come share my pain (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
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Why does it look like the funky solution is going back into the coolant line?
Ah, gotcha. So pushed back through there, through the block and out the block drain then? Is that how you did the 100PSI flush too?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #546
Ok time for a palette cleanser…
Figured it was a perfect time to bleed the brakes and clutch master on my 60 (but this works for any LC). One of the things I constantly see people do is either:
* watch carefully the brake fluid level and top up as needed over and over and over again or
* they bleed the brakes and suck in air because they didn’t refill the reservoir(s) in time
You remember as a kid when you would take a glass you were washing in a sink full of water and fill the glass with water and hold it upside down in the water? Then you’d slowly start lifting the glass (full of water but upside down) up out of the water juuuust to the edge of the glass. Then you’d sit and admire that the water doesn’t stream out of the glass but it’s above the water line. Remember that?
Well this is simply because the atmospheric pressure is equal in the cup as it is in the air around you. Gravity wants the water to fall but it needs a pressure differential to happen, aka bubbles.
Well that’s what you do with the bottles of brake fluid when bleeding your brakes (or clutch master). Just dump the bottle over the open reservoir. It’ll pour out until there is a liquid seal around the mouth of the bottle. But in order to get the brake fluid to drain you need to make sure there is a pressure differential so that’s why there is a small wire to crack open enough air to have the reservoir air pressure the same as the pressure in your garage.
Now bleed as necessary and all you need to make sure is you don’t pull all of the brake fluid thru
Figured it was a perfect time to bleed the brakes and clutch master on my 60 (but this works for any LC). One of the things I constantly see people do is either:
* watch carefully the brake fluid level and top up as needed over and over and over again or
* they bleed the brakes and suck in air because they didn’t refill the reservoir(s) in time
You remember as a kid when you would take a glass you were washing in a sink full of water and fill the glass with water and hold it upside down in the water? Then you’d slowly start lifting the glass (full of water but upside down) up out of the water juuuust to the edge of the glass. Then you’d sit and admire that the water doesn’t stream out of the glass but it’s above the water line. Remember that?
Well this is simply because the atmospheric pressure is equal in the cup as it is in the air around you. Gravity wants the water to fall but it needs a pressure differential to happen, aka bubbles.
Well that’s what you do with the bottles of brake fluid when bleeding your brakes (or clutch master). Just dump the bottle over the open reservoir. It’ll pour out until there is a liquid seal around the mouth of the bottle. But in order to get the brake fluid to drain you need to make sure there is a pressure differential so that’s why there is a small wire to crack open enough air to have the reservoir air pressure the same as the pressure in your garage.
Now bleed as necessary and all you need to make sure is you don’t pull all of the brake fluid thru
When you are all done bleeding, don't you make a big mess pulling the partly-full brake fluid bottle off the reservoir?
Holy crap good question. I didn't think of that
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #551
Well the Champion all aluminum radiator finally arrived after taking a whirlwind tour of the US going the looooong way. Zero issues with packaging and I don't see anything wrong with it. The quality seems ok. The welds are kinda meh but it'll do that job. If I were still back in LA I would have this anodized but now its no longer an option. Just going to rock it as is. Part no: CC1213 and I ordered from JEGS because they were the only place that seemed to actually have one in stock.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #554
The lower thermostat housing was actually in really good shape so just cleaned it up and reused it after testing the coolant vacuum switches. All good. The upper thermostat housing on the other hand was a complete mess. Really heavy pitting and I didn't see re-using it. A new OEM thermostat was put in and everything put back together:
absolute-wits-end.com
No issues. Surprised that the housing was still available from Toyota.
Tested fan clutch and it was perfect so just going to rock it.
Complete Thermostat Kit for any 2F or 3F Engine
Complete Thermostat Kit for any 2F or 3F Engine (CTK-23)
No issues. Surprised that the housing was still available from Toyota.
Tested fan clutch and it was perfect so just going to rock it.
Any significant or non-obvious differences when doing the vinegar flush with a 1FZ 80?
Bludozer
SILVER Star
