New to FJ55s. . .

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I still haven't been able to turn the engine over w/the hand crank - I'm starting to explore my options on that. . .


Socket over the crank pulley nut and big breaker bar...
Refresh the solvents in the cylinders daily.
Clean the body ground & engine grounds. Also, front turn signals are grounded via the fender mounts, they always need cleaning.
Don't rip out or throw away anything yet.
 
Thanks for the tips Pighead. I wasn't planning to chuck anything yet - just wanted to know if I should treat anything w/extra special care.

I just went into my garage to fetch the rear window motor gear pieces and stopped short as I saw a LIVE mouse scurry from the open tailgate back into the rear wheel well below the gas tank filler tube (I have the interior rear side panels off). It gave me the heebee jeebees! I hate to think that I brought a few extra passengers along that will now inhabit my garage/house. . . every evidence I've found so far has been long dead. I guess I should've expected it considering how much infestation there was. Looks like I'll have to buy some mouse traps tomorrow - and let our 3 cats loose in the garage for a while. Bummer. . . .
 
When I started on my 55 the lights were dim, flasher and signals were sloooooow, dash didn't light up. The majority of the electrical issues were solved by cleaning contacts, ground connections, and fuse box connections with the replacement of fuses (non corroded new ones). Fine emory paper and non metalic scrub pads and dielectric grease worked wonders. The headlights are now bright the turn signals snap in time and all the other lights are bright! Didn't need to spend as much $ as I first thought.
Welcome to the club.
 
OK, quick question of the morning: Are there drain holes at the bottom of the rear interior wells behind the rear tires? I'm wondering if I spray water in there if it's going to fill up like a pool or drain out - assuming the drain hole isn't filled w/junk.

I found some mouse traps in our cleaning closet (actually my wife did) and the Idaho mouse population was reduced by 2 last night.

Also, thanks chevurai for the electrical pep talk. I will start by cleaning all the grounds and electrical connections - hopefully that will cure most (or all) of the ills.

Thanks,
Tom

Drain holes below the fuel filler tube well?
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OK, quick question of the morning: Are there drain holes at the bottom of the rear interior wells behind the rear tires? I'm wondering if I spray water in there if it's going to fill up like a pool or drain out - assuming the drain hole isn't filled w/junk.
?

going off a memory as rusty as my rear corners, there should be drain holes just behind the rear wheel. i think there is a rubber plug in the hole
 
OK, quick question of the morning: Are there drain holes at the bottom of the rear interior wells behind the rear tires?


Quick answer is to get yourself underneath and look...all the Pigs here are rusted out and I trimmed that sheetmetal off mine years ago...you're welcome.
 
Not all the pigs here are rusted out :grinpimp: IIRC there are rubber plugs at the base of the quarter panel inboard of the very bottom seam. Should be @ the locations shown at the end of the red lines. I'd go look on the remaining pig at my stye, but that piggie meets and exceeds the rusted out standard pighead mentions :cheers:
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Quick answer is to get yourself underneath and look...you're welcome.

Pighead - thanks for calling me on my laziness! It's cold today and I am feeling wimpy.

IIRC there are rubber plugs at the base of the quarter panel inboard of the very bottom seam. Should be @ the locations shown at the end of the red lines.

I did take a look under there and there ARE rubber plugs where you'd expect to see them given the panel arrangement etc... There is a bit of rust, but doesn't seem too bad. Thanks for the help.

I removed the front & rear bench seats and the front floor mat, but it's too cold today to do much additional rinsing. . . maybe I'll start to work on the gas tank or electrical stuff.

Tom
 
Squirt some more solvent in the cylinders and call it a day.
 
We've had that thread, it's not pretty.
 

That's a good thought. I emailed back & forth a few times w/the seller - the only hang up is that he's in southern CA & I'm in Idaho & shipping would likely more than double the purchase price. . .

It was kind of a slow weekend of work on the cruiser. Busy chopping down a tree for some holiday or other, partaking in holiday parties etc... plus it's a bit colder, and it snowed a little today. I've parked the cruiser outside to encourage any remaining inhabitants to move on - it's supposed to be below zero for the next few nights and with no interior to "snuggle" into or build a nest from, I'm hopeful that any critters hiding in the few nooks I haven't blasted w/water or fully scrubbed down, will vacate.

Yesterday I finished pulling the interior - seats & front mat - and then completely rinsed the interior w/lemon scented ammonia and liberal spraying from the hose. It's as clean as it will ever be under my ownership now!

Not much rust on the floor; just a bit @ the driver's feet, passenger's feet and rear left passenger's feet. All of it looks to be surface only, so a coat of POR-15 should take care of it. I've had great luck w/the stuff on my other project car.

Today, I drained the fuel tank. 4-5 gallons of nasty smelling liquid came out that at some point in the distant past was gas. Hopefully at some point, everything that I do on this thing will stop involving a nasty, foul smelling task!

Tom
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Just a thought...

You have some helpful thoughts. . .

I'm hoping to tackle the engine this week as the temps warm up in the next few days. I just need to put a little time into trying to determine if it's worth putting time into - or if I should just give up on it and try to find a replacement.

Knowing full well what opinions are like, I have a question on brakes. I am assuming that the system will need a full overhaul. I have a boosted dual MC and drum brakes all around.

My first question: is it worth rebuilding the booster and MC myself or am I better off buying rebuilt units and trading mine in as cores? Same goes for the clutch MC. I've looked at the parts diagrams for the brake and clutch MCs and they seem pretty straight forward. The brake booster however, looks more intimidating. Keeping in mind that these serve an important safety function. . .

My second question is: should I even consider rebuilding my drum brakes or not even waste my time and swap over to disks? If I go disks, should I just do the front or do all 4? Who sells a good COMPLETE kit to do the swap? Are the drum brake wheel cylinders even rebuildable or do you need to buy whole new cylinders?

Thanks,
Tom
 
The brake master is an easy rebuild, if you can find the kit. Ditto with the clutch master & slave. Brake boosters are tougher. See if it needs work first. Some people put a mini-truck booster on...
Brake cylinders are another easy rebuild, but, discs are way better, bolt right on and could be easier (and cheaper if you need new cylinders). Poser sells the big parts for rear discs, you will need a trip to the FLAPS though.
Front discs are well documented in the FAQs. Steer away from kits, DIY.
While discs are better, drums are perfectly serviceable and will work just fine. Slightly more labor intensive though.
 
My $0.02:

Cool that you have the original F engine. If it has issues, you could always yank it and set aside as a builder.

You could go disc brake front with all factory parts as these Pigs went disc front/drum rear in '76. Not sure how much of a purist you are, but I am less worried about degrading value (I know, some people are laughing now) if it is an upgrade available on later Pigs.
 
Look for coolerman's website. He has a couple pages on rebuilding wheel cylinders
 

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