New to FJ55s. . .

[Tom FJ55]

Thanks for the comments on the brakes. I think I will start that refurb. next with the plan being to stick w/drums unless the cost of the non-servicable parts becomes excessive. I'm happy to read (though not exactly sure why) that the prevailing response seemed to be that drums are still OK.

Not sure how much of a purist you are. . .

I'm not sure either! I would call myself a practical purist. I'm all for staying stock, unless performance or budget aren't in line with expectations. I do fully appreciate restored-to-original and low mile original examples. I don't have the budget however, to work w/in those constraints - I always consider restored-to-original more expensive based on my Porsche experience.

Look for coolerman's website. He has a couple pages on rebuilding wheel cylinders

Thanks for the tip on that - I just spent 1 hr. reading through a ton of great how-tos on his website. !Oy: Coolermans 1971 FJ40 Build

Any thoughts on going from a purple Pig to pink Pig???

It's funny you mention that. My boys and I discussed painting pink over the purple. I'm hoping to have "PIG" in the license plate somehow. . . when I get that far. It'd make it pretty distinct around here, but my wife would look cool driving it to work!

Tom

 

[Tom FJ55]

Quick update for yesterday's work - trying to get better access to the crank pulley nut so I can generate more leverage w/a breaker bar than the hand crank. I decided to remove the radiator and fan shroud so I can really have at it. There wasn't much coolant that drained from the bottom of the radiator and what did come out was pretty dirty - but at least it wasn't just water that had sat inside the motor for so long and frozen/thawed/frozen/thawed over the years. I got the radiator drained and unbolted before my fingers became too numb to go further. I just need to remove the lower coolant hose and pull the radiator and fan shroud out to have access to the crank nut - which I'm hoping will help me apply some more forceful persuasion and get that motor freed!

I also found that the thermostat cover had been JB Welded/glued on. My friend who had the Cruiser before me told me that there was a coolant leak from what sounded like the thermostat cover and now I know why! One of the cover bolts appeared to be broken and rusted/frozen in place. Instead of fixing the bolt, JB Weld was liberally applied in place of a gasket. I don't think it worked.

I had already chipped most of the JB Weld off before I snapped the pics, but they show the broken off bolt. . .

 

[Tom FJ55]

Today was a good day because. . . I got the engine moving! Nice milestone to check off the list. Removing the radiator and fan shroud allowed enough access to put a breaker bar on the crank pulley socket. That was all it took.

One of the next things on my list is the carb. which is a bit of a mess. I need to decide whether to rebuild it or just punt and get another. Having never rebuilt one, is there much rocket science involved in that?

Tom

 

[nuclearlemon]

Today was a good day because. . . I got the engine moving! Nice milestone to check off the list. Removing the radiator and fan shroud allowed enough access to put a breaker bar on the crank pulley socket. That was all it took.

Tom

now that it's turning, does it turn somewhat freely? you will have a bear of a time on compression, but you will tell when you get past compression. you should be able to turn it with a 1/2 ratchet on non compression, and with a struggle on compression.

 

[Tom FJ55]

now that it's turning, does it turn somewhat freely?

It turns very easily. . . because I pulled all the spark plugs. It actually feels pretty darn smooth for something that was previously "lightly locked up".

I think I'm going to pull the valve cover to make sure all the valves are moving up & down (and do a quick valve adjust), and also pull the oil pan to clean out the sludge that I'm sure fills the bottom and take a look at the internals from the underside.

I need to start an official parts list soon so I'm ready when the reassembly phase begins. . .

 

[PabloCruise]

Trollhole sells some brand new carbs I think.

 

[nuclearlemon]

It turns very easily. . . because I pulled all the spark plugs. It actually feels pretty darn smooth for something that was previously "lightly locked up".
.

good. that's what i wanted to hear.

 

[subzali]

Carb isn't hard to rebuild. Links here and on the rising sun forum. Sorry I'm posting from a phone and can't post a link

 

[Tom FJ55]

Starting on the Brakes

One nice thing about working on a greasy parts/bolts is that they don't seem to freeze up - even after sitting for 15+ years. I'm sure I will jinx myself by saying this, but everything came apart fairly easily. The front drums required some persuasion, but yielded in the end. . .

A few of the pistons were a little stiff, but in general they all looked mostly good. One of the rear cylinders has some light corrosion on the pistons, but I think some fine paper should clean it right up.

That's a heck of a lot of parts that need clean up!

 

[MiniPigg]

I'd go all wheel disc.. just going to a front disc axle is a day and night difference in stopping and avoiding an accident.

all looking good.

 

[Tom FJ55]

I'd go all wheel disc.. just going to a front disc axle is a day and night difference in stopping and avoiding an accident.

all looking good.

I've been researching disk conversions and am really tempted. Two things that are holding me back are: budget and monkeying w/sourcing all the correct parts.

It seems like I'd immediately blow my budget w/a disk brake conversion - but on the other hand, refurbing the drum system isn't cheap either. I'm assuming I can get by with just brake cylinder rebuild kits. If I have to get drums and shoes, disks become more tempting.

I asked about conversion "kits" earlier because I don't have the energy to track down all the little bits and pieces on my own via vendors and junk yards while MacGyver'ing together a system. It seems like OEM Landcruiser disks or mini-truck disks are the way to go. I'd like to have the option to run the stock wheels, so that seems to rule out some of the conversions, like the MAF, that use an adapter plate to keep the stock (older non-disk) birfield, hub, spindle etc... Maybe it's not as hard as I'm making it out to be either? Getting into the brifields is something I dread for some reason. . .

I'd like to not have to acquire a separate truck (or two) as parts donors. The only disk conversion "kit" that I've found that is complete w/everything I'd need and allows me to use the stock wheels is from SOR. I added up all the parts and it was way over $1K just for the front. If I could be at $1K for both front & rear, I'd probably do it. Maybe I'm being too cheap? Maybe there are other options I haven't found?

 

[PabloCruise]

Just find a junkyard 60 up there with a complete front end and peel off everything you need. It will be less than a grand, and you'll have the cool Aisin lock-outs.

You really tore into the brake system!
If I were you I would budget for new shoes since you are already in there!

 

[Tom FJ55]

Just find a junkyard 60 up there with a complete front end and peel off everything you need. It will be less than a grand, and you'll have the cool Aisin lock-outs.

You really tore into the brake system!
If I were you I would budget for new shoes since you are already in there!

By "complete front end" what exactly do you mean? Do I need the entire front axle? Will that bolt directly to my springs, steering and other parts?

Also, does swapping to disks mess w/the front-rear brake bias? I do have a boosted dual MC.

Yes I went whole-hog yesterday on the brakes! I wanted to be sure that whatever I ended up with was working as it should w/no frozen pistons etc... especially after sitting for so long.

Thanks for the help.

 

[toddslater]

If you covert to front disc (highly recommended minimum) u need remove residual pressure valve for the line feeding the front brake circuit...easy as can be. Residual Valve Removal - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com

 

[Tom FJ55]

OCD Clean drum brake wheel cylinder parts ready for rebuild kits. . .

 

[PabloCruise]

The 60 series front axle will not bolt right on due to the 60 series housing being wider than the 40/55 housing.
You would need the items from the knuckle out, including the birfs. These birfs will clip on to your inner axles.

 

[NikP]

Looks like you found a donor from the third picture in post #38. The axles parts from that fj60 would swap into yours and get you part way to full disc. You could either swap the entire axle which would require some spring mount modifications since the axles are wider our you could dismantle and use knuckle parts from the inner axle outward.

I'm doing a full axle swap so I can get disc brakes and parts that are a bit easier and cheaper to find. I also wanted the 3.70 gear ratio for better highway speeds.

 

[Tom FJ55]

Am I missing the E-Brake guts?

Looks like you found a donor from the third picture in post #38.

I have thought about that, but I'm not sure I want to pick apart that 60 - even if I could have access to it. It would render it non-op for good, make it difficult to move in the future etc... While it's pretty rough around the edges, it's basically a running driving car as is.


My question/revelation of the night is: Am I missing the E-Brake guts? I haven't spent much time underneath yet getting familiar w/things etc.... so I'm not exactly sure what everything is yet. But, I see the rear drive shaft connected to what looks like a brake drum, but there's nothing inside - no shoes/pads, spring mechanism etc... no cable. Hmmm. . . Is the cable in the photos below the speedo cable? Are the E-Brake guts missing & can I just re-install them - or does it look like there was a reason they are absent?

Thanks,
Tom

 

[NikP]

Yes cable is speedo. I'm not sure what the story is but I've purchased two Landcruisers where the previous owner removed parking brake guts like yours. Now if you swapped the rear axle from the fj60 it has the parking brake. (hint hint)

I know what you mean about rendering the 60 inoperable. I bought two 55s and I'm having trouble robbing parts from one to make the other complete. I just hate to see one not have a future.

 

[PabloCruise]

So it looks like you have an overdrive sitting on the back of the t-case!
Did we talk about that already?
The PO may have yanked the park brake b/c the cable would no longer reach with the o/d unit.
You can source parts for your park brake and rebuild. Then you can get a custom e-brake cable made.