New to FJ55s. . .

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good eye honey...i just looked and it's not there. on the bracket on the right side of the firewall. you see the rod coming through, with nothing attached to it.
 
on the bracket on the right side of the firewall. you see the rod coming through, with nothing attached to it.

Is this the one you're looking at (circled in red)?
EBrake.webp
 
Fill those cylinders with your favorite blend of solvents before the trailer ride home, in fact, spray everything that you think you're ever going to want to disassemble before the ride home...the extra bouncing on the trailer will help it along.
 
Damn you guys beat me to it... lol

We just use diesel in each cylinder. Just pull all spark plugs and fill em up. Also that engine is a bitch to turn with the hand crank anyway... so if the rings are seized due to sitting so long with moister... after letting them soak in diesel it should turn over with the factory hand crank.
Also the factory hand crank useless when it comes to trying to start the pig cold and just about the same even with a warm engine.

I'm sure you already placed the transmission into neutral. Just wanted to say something and save some head aches.

I have a good running 2F and 4speed thats still sitting in my '78 FJ55 frame. It is a complete rolling chassis, I was interested in selling the engine with transmission and tcase. But I am up by Spokane, WA.
 
Fill those cylinders with your favorite blend of solvents before the trailer ride home, in fact, spray everything that you think you're ever going to want to disassemble before the ride home...the extra bouncing on the trailer will help it along.

Thanks again for the tips. I will definitely pull the plugs and get them soaking on my next trip down there.

I'm sure you already placed the transmission into neutral. Just wanted to say something and save some head aches.

I have a good running 2F and 4speed thats still sitting in my '78 FJ55 frame. It is a complete rolling chassis, I was interested in selling the engine with transmission and tcase. But I am up by Spokane, WA.

Yes, I did place the trans. in neutral - but thanks for mentioning it! Sometimes it's the simplest things that are the hangups and not being super experienced at this kind of stuff. . . . you never know (assume that I DON'T know!).

Just out of curiosity, what is the ballpark price of a good running motor and trans.? I have no reference point on this stuff yet. . .

Thanks,
Tom
 
Welcome Tom.Get that 55 in your garage immediately.There would be no better way to Cruise around all the killer country you live in..My family has a small place in Ketchum,so I come through your stompin grounds frequently.Don't think twice,buy it and love it.
Fishin the Big Wood in a 55:)
 
Tom,
Welcome to Pigs and MUD!
Both are great clubs to be a part of.
I'll never forget the first time I saw a Pig, I got bitten by the bug hard! That was after I already got bit by the 40 bug and had my 40 up and running!
Don't stress to much about the engine. Like everyone has said, pre-lube the cylinders, get some fresh oil in there, and go from there.
You can pre-lube the engine by pulling the dizzy, but be very sure when you put dizzy back in that you get it fully seated back in the oil pump. I have read posts where people have damaged their F/2F by not getting that dizzy engaged with the oil pump.
If the engine is toast, it is not hard to find people selling/giving away F engines that are being swapped out for 2F's or V8 or diesel swaps, etc.
The engine mechanical will be pretty straight forward. It is he Pig body that is more an art form. Then again, it is the body that gives the Pig it's mysterious allure...
 
.

Just out of curiosity, what is the ballpark price of a good running motor and trans.?


You can occasionally find a running early F engine for maybe 3 or 4 hundred bucks.
A running 2F with a 4-speed transmission can also sometimes be found for a little more. These Toyota transmissions rarely go bad. The later engines ('74 and up) have a superior oiling system and the 2F engine has slightly bigger displacement.
You could swap in a same year engine in a weekend. A 2F with 4-speed is only slightly more difficult.
 
Tom, I recently left Boise ID where I lived for years. I have a '72 pig that I'm working on. I left the original F engine in storage in Boise. All it needs is a carb and you will have a runner if you are interested. I will hook you up pretty cheap on it if you are interested. Just send me a PM if you are.
 
A little late for this one...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/498121-2fe.html
But might give you an idea of what you could put in there if you were so inclined.
But jtrock might have the quickest, easiest, cheapest solution.
Does this site not rock?
 
I left the original F engine in storage. All it needs is a carb and you will have a runner if you are interested. I will hook you up pretty cheap on it if you are interested. Just send me a PM if you are.

jtrock - thanks so much for the offer! The next step is to try to clear a path through all the "stuff" in the way so we can drag it out of where it's parked. I'm hoping I can talk my 2 boys into going down w/me tomorrow after school to "help" (they're 6 & 9 so "help" is still relative). Hopefully we can get down there before Thurs. w/the trailer to tow it to my garage where I can do some better diagnosing where I have tools w/in reach, some heat etc....

If the motor doesn't want to cooperate, I will be in touch. . .

A little late for this one...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/498121-2fe.html
But might give you an idea of what you could put in there if you were so inclined.
But jtrock might have the quickest, easiest, cheapest solution.
Does this site not rock?

Thanks again Pighead. This site does rock. I really do appreciate all the help. . . and I haven't really even started yet.

Tom
 
Hello again -

OK, took me a little longer to get back down to dig it out because I decided to do a little title research first so I could get a handle on that before I invested too much time, in case there was an issue etc...

After a little digging, I found that my friend (and the current owner) never titled it or registered it in his name after buying it. He bought it as a project, towed it to his Dad's place where it's been sitting since about 1995ish. The registration I found in the glovebox was from the original owner - this is a 1 owner Pig! Kinda cool. After a little sleuthing, I left a few phone messages and got a call back from the owner's wife who told me her husband bought it new in 1972 and it served as their Idaho car/truck for years. She said it was originally white & blue, but he painted it purple because his ex-wife hated purple! I hope to find out more details when I speak to the owner when he gets back to town in the next few days. . . There is also a stack of receipts in the glovebox that I'm currently going through - looks like there may have been an oil pressure issue and oil pump replacement before it was parked. . .

So after speaking w/the "official" owner I was feeling better about sorting out the title etc... so I went down there today to get it dug out and ready to winch onto the trailer. Lots of "stuff" to move. . . fortunately I had a great helper (my 6 yr. old) as well as my friend's Dad who has a tractor which we used to pull it out. . .

Hopefully I'll be able to get back down w/the trailer sometime next week. I need to deal w/1 flat tire - pretty amazing after sitting for close to 15yrs.

Some pics from the afternoon:

Now you see it; Now you don't; Pics of the corners & one of my "helper". . .
IMG_1872.webp
11-25-11 24.webp
11-25-11 19.webp
 
So after looking through all the receipts and talking to the owner again, I'm not sure whether the engine is going to be worth the trouble. . .

The receipts show that it was rebuilt in 1987 (which seems early for something with such a robust reputation). It was the full meal deal w/valve grind, piston rings, 1 new piston, all new bearings (main, rod, cam), new oil pump, clutch, pressure plate etc... I don't think there were that many miles on it, but have no way to tell. The odo. shows 33,300 - but there are some notes in the receipts that mention the odo. is in-op.

A 1990 receipt says "check oil pressure" but little else.

A 1993 receipt says "test oil pressure w/gage", has the results of a compression test (good) and notes the oil pick-up tube was loose

A 1994 receipt says "slow oil pressure build up, low hot pressure on gage". The oil pump was disassembled and there was heavy scoring found on the relief valve, pump gear backlash was out of spec. The oil pump and relief valve were replaced. There is a note that says "some bearing damage has occurred due to the faulty pump, however the engine should last many miles". Hmmmm.

The owner told me that the truck had been dead reliable until the engine rebuild in '87 but that after that, there had been lingering issues. It looks like either the oil pump or relief valve that was put in at that time may have been faulty or maybe installed incorrectly? Just guessing as low oil pressure seemed to be the end result. . . The owner told me that his mechanic had advised him to replace the engine, but had a difficult time sourcing a '72 motor that would bolt right in - kind of a bummer after a fairly recent rebuild! Anyway, that's about when he sold it to my friend in '94/'95ish and it's been parked ever since.

I was able to replace the valve stem in the spare today (which looks brand spanking new for being 15 yrs. old) so all the tires will now roll. I'm set to pick it up on Monday and trailer it to its next home. . .my garage.

How should I start w/the engine? Aside from being able to turn it over (which it currently does not) and basic compression and leakdown tests (which I will do), what kins of things can I check to help assess its health - especially in regards to low oil pressure? The current owner said that there's a coolant leak as well - I think from the top front of the motor? From a cast part? I will check that as well obviously. Can I pull the oil pan and see much from below worth looking at? I am much more familiar w/flat-six engines - not so much w/these.

Thanks,
Tom
 
A '72 engine is probably not worth much...unless it's in your rig and it's running.
I've taken those early blocks to the recyclers.
Also would not put too much faith in the original oilpressure gauges. The old pressure regulators on the outside of the blocks can be put on backwards and will screw up the oil flow, a loose pickup tube will cause low oil pressure. Then again, these engines can take a fair amount of abuse. I'd drop the oilpan, probably pull some bearing caps and have a look. You can see a lot under there, cylinder walls, camshaft, main & rod bearings. Oilpumps rarely go bad, and you can flip one gear to give lots more miles if it's worn. A little out of spec is not going to make a big difference. Put a real oilpressure gauge on it, one with numbers. The F can run on very little oil pressure, it's probably fine.
A little coolant leak up front can be from a number of places, most are an easy fix.
 

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