New to FJ55s. . .
- Thread starter Tom FJ55
- Start date
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Tom,
I know you've done mechanical work but just as a safety reminder--be careful on any kick back when using the hand crank!!!
I know you've done mechanical work but just as a safety reminder--be careful on any kick back when using the hand crank!!!
I think Tom will be fairly safe from any engine kickback for the time being...
Yes, Tom , you can use a big socket on the crank pulley nut...it's, like, a 1 & 13/16ths or something. Search will tell you.
- Thread starter
- #26
Not so worried about the love, just the hate!
Thanks for the safety and socket size tips. . . don't assume I know anything about what I'm doing! I always tell people that I only know enough to be dangerous.
It snowed off & on all afternoon so it looks like I won't get to investigate further until tomorrow or Sun. . . I'll update w/pics and more info then.
Thanks,
Tom
What is the owner asking for the pig. I know some folks are iffy about posting the price for something, but you are in good company and we are willing to protect your interests. That way we can give you a better idea of how much you should spend on it. There are a number of factors that effect the price of a pig. Location is a biggie because the 55 was not evenly distributed across the USA or CAN. A pig I can get for 700 in my area might cost another 2000 some place else. I am fairly familiar with prices in the PNW region. Im about 9 hours from your location and if I were closer I could help you out.
From 1968 to 1980 Toyota manufactured just over 103,000 50 Series for the world market. If I remember correctly only about 50,000 made their way to the US and CAN. I've noticed more on the west coast and around Colorado. You still see so many of them because they are such a well made truck.
You really cant go wrong with a pig. Over the years Ive owned several. It is the one cruiser that will always have a place in my home.
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- Thread starter
- #28
Hello again -
I had a chance to spend some time doing some further investigating today. I came away hopeful, but tempered too. I haven't mentioned a purchase price because I'm not sure where we stand on that yet. I am assuming pretty cheap though.
The body and frame seem to be in good shape as far as I can tell. Yes, there is rust, but. . . it seems dealable. The roof is caved in, but not rusted through & no holes. I think I could tear out the headliner, pop it back up w/out too much work and maybe weld some support braces in if needed. There is some rust under the floor mats by the pedals & the same on the front pass. side, but seems to be just surface, not all the way through. Body seems generally reasonable. There is rust behind the drivers front wheel in the fender, which sounds common, but where the fenders attach to the body, up by the hood seems pretty solid. Hopefully my rust assessment isn't too optimistic. . .
I found the hand crank under the rear seat (thanks for the tip Pighead!) and tried to turn the engine over - no go. This is one of the reasons I'm a bit tempered. I was hopeful that it'd at least budge, but I couldn't get it to move at all. I'm not ready to give up on it obviously, but. . . There was oil on the dipstick when I checked. . .
I'm not exactly sure when it was parked, but it's been a while since it's been touched for sure. The entire inside is covered in mouse droppings. Take a look at the pics and feel free to make comments. I tried to take pics of a few of the things people mentioned earlier - the OD lever etc... It's wedged in a corner and kind of hard to get to with stuff packed all around it.
The owners Dad is going to help me yank it out w/his tractor after I spend some time clearing a path through the stuff that's in the way. . . then I can back right up to it and winch it into a trailer to get it to my garage. . . hopefully at least.
Some pics:
I had a chance to spend some time doing some further investigating today. I came away hopeful, but tempered too. I haven't mentioned a purchase price because I'm not sure where we stand on that yet. I am assuming pretty cheap though.
The body and frame seem to be in good shape as far as I can tell. Yes, there is rust, but. . . it seems dealable. The roof is caved in, but not rusted through & no holes. I think I could tear out the headliner, pop it back up w/out too much work and maybe weld some support braces in if needed. There is some rust under the floor mats by the pedals & the same on the front pass. side, but seems to be just surface, not all the way through. Body seems generally reasonable. There is rust behind the drivers front wheel in the fender, which sounds common, but where the fenders attach to the body, up by the hood seems pretty solid. Hopefully my rust assessment isn't too optimistic. . .
I found the hand crank under the rear seat (thanks for the tip Pighead!) and tried to turn the engine over - no go. This is one of the reasons I'm a bit tempered. I was hopeful that it'd at least budge, but I couldn't get it to move at all. I'm not ready to give up on it obviously, but. . . There was oil on the dipstick when I checked. . .
I'm not exactly sure when it was parked, but it's been a while since it's been touched for sure. The entire inside is covered in mouse droppings. Take a look at the pics and feel free to make comments. I tried to take pics of a few of the things people mentioned earlier - the OD lever etc... It's wedged in a corner and kind of hard to get to with stuff packed all around it.
The owners Dad is going to help me yank it out w/his tractor after I spend some time clearing a path through the stuff that's in the way. . . then I can back right up to it and winch it into a trailer to get it to my garage. . . hopefully at least.
Some pics:
is that an overdrive on there? the engine's can be really hard to turn when they're in good condition depending on where on the compression stroke it is. with yours sitting so long, it's possible the rings are a bit seized. pour some marvel oil down the plug holes and let it sit for a day, that tends to help.
the roof caving in is common. find someone parting a rig and buy extra roof supports. probably 1/3 of the pigs out there have caved roofs.
the roof caving in is common. find someone parting a rig and buy extra roof supports. probably 1/3 of the pigs out there have caved roofs.
btw, with marvel in the cylinders, when you do get it running expect to kill off any bugs within a 15 mile radius...it will smoke like crazy
- Thread starter
- #35
Kinda crazy that this Pig weighs more than TWICE what my '74 911 weighs. . . I don't even want to think about the HP/Weight ratio!
So here I am. . . trying to weigh whether it's worth it to ME to yank this Pig out and park it in my garage for a while to suck on my bank account while I get it running. I do feel like it's worth saving - even if it's not me doing the CPR.
So worse case it needs (in no particular order):
engine - possibly if seized
brake system overhaul
tires
basic suspension (shocks at least I'd assume)
there was no fluid in the brake or clutch MCs - they'd both need overhaul
all belts
all rubber hoses
entire fuel system overhaul
carb overhaul (there was a bunch of junk in it looking from the top)
probably some steering related stuff - knuckles, joints whatever. . .
need a new/refurbed front seat
I'm sure I'm missing a ton of other things. . .
I'm not counting popping the roof back or doing any minor rust repair - that's free labor (have a welder, basic metal skills etc. . . )
The biggest unknown to me is the motor. If it's not it bad shape, it seems doable. If it need to be replaced, then my budget is way out the window.
Are there places that do core exchanges? Is that a good way to go? I stumbled upon "Mark's Off Road". Any other recommendations? One thing I found w/my other project car is that a forum like this is invaluable for research, help and support. Equally important is a good "expert" source for parts, advice and tech support. It doesn't have to be the cheapest place, but good quality support, products and reputation are at the top of my list.
Thanks for the insight & comments.
Tom
So here I am. . . trying to weigh whether it's worth it to ME to yank this Pig out and park it in my garage for a while to suck on my bank account while I get it running. I do feel like it's worth saving - even if it's not me doing the CPR.
So worse case it needs (in no particular order):
engine - possibly if seized
brake system overhaul
tires
basic suspension (shocks at least I'd assume)
there was no fluid in the brake or clutch MCs - they'd both need overhaul
all belts
all rubber hoses
entire fuel system overhaul
carb overhaul (there was a bunch of junk in it looking from the top)
probably some steering related stuff - knuckles, joints whatever. . .
need a new/refurbed front seat
I'm sure I'm missing a ton of other things. . .
I'm not counting popping the roof back or doing any minor rust repair - that's free labor (have a welder, basic metal skills etc. . . )
The biggest unknown to me is the motor. If it's not it bad shape, it seems doable. If it need to be replaced, then my budget is way out the window.
Are there places that do core exchanges? Is that a good way to go? I stumbled upon "Mark's Off Road". Any other recommendations? One thing I found w/my other project car is that a forum like this is invaluable for research, help and support. Equally important is a good "expert" source for parts, advice and tech support. It doesn't have to be the cheapest place, but good quality support, products and reputation are at the top of my list.
Thanks for the insight & comments.
Tom
- Thread starter
- #36
Just a few more pics of some kind of heater, the brake & clutch MCs and another Cruiser parked right next to the PIG. I may be able to get the newer one as part of the deal too. . . It's pretty rough around the edges and has a suspect motor too. . .
find someone parting a rig with a running motor if you need.
clutch and brake masters and cylinders are easy and cheap to rebuild. clutch slaves are cheap.
for tires, you can save by going to a place that buys take offs....i got tires for my old pickup for $30/ea and they were damn near new.
throw a cheap seat cover over the front seat for now, maybe some new foam under it.
rebuild carb yourself, unhook lines and flush with gas.
keep us updated and
clutch and brake masters and cylinders are easy and cheap to rebuild. clutch slaves are cheap.
for tires, you can save by going to a place that buys take offs....i got tires for my old pickup for $30/ea and they were damn near new.
throw a cheap seat cover over the front seat for now, maybe some new foam under it.
rebuild carb yourself, unhook lines and flush with gas.
keep us updated and
- Thread starter
- #39
The parking brake handle was actually pulled when I opened the door. I released it - you can see it released in one of the photos. With the pics I posted. . . how do reckon I'll need to replace the cable? Jedi sense?