New Engine for a 1975 FJ40 Named "Sandy"

[RevISK]

Maybe you can get Ian's carb (@RevISK) for the first go - you might need to barter with beers or something. Not trying to volunteer you Ian - but having gone though this with my engine rebuild, totally agree.

Matt is more than welcome to my Weber.

 

[OlYellr]

1. On the side of the engine there is a tube that I assume is for the PCV Valve. Can someone confirm this and tell me which parts I need to connect to the vacuum hose? I find 12204-51012 Valve and 90480-18180 Grommet, but I don't get how the connection works. (Photo below)
2. There is a plug missing in the head. Is there a standard plug, like (90345-54002) or should I use another temperature sensor? (Photo below)
3. For the new Engine Mounts do I need new bolts or only if they are damaged during removal? (90102-13010 and 90102-13009)
4. New Bell Housing bolts (91619-61235)
5. New Flywheel Bolts (90913-01016 original part #90913-01003)
6. Clutch cover to FW bolts (90119-08134)

For #1 - the valve (12204-51012) has a sub - 12204-61010 works too I just ordered a spare from Toyota for about $10 on Black Friday sale they had- grommet is correct - clip I mentioned is 90467-24038 - but dependent on what hose and preference.

For #3 - 90102-13009 &13010 are discontinued - you would only get used at this point.

I went OEM insulators as I am a fan of OEM rubber parts etc. I did take my motor mount bracket to powder coating and got them the same color as my valve cover and radiator bracket cuz people want to peak at the engine when in person. If you want it pretty, now is the time.

Whomever said add new throw-out bearing, second that. How are your clutch master and slave?

 

[Grayscale]

Transmission dowels. In addition to the disc centering tool for the clutch disc, you'll be way ahead of the game with a couple modified screws for aligning the transmission casting / transmission input shaft to the bell housing and pilot bearing. On a 2F bellhousing, I used M12x1.25 screws that were about 75mm before the head was removed, and a grinder created a bit of a taper to the end. I should have used a hacksaw or cut-off wheel to form a slot, so they can be backed-out with a screwdriver, after the two screws have been installed between the gearbox and the bellhousing.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Matt here’s another PVC pic from my 77.

I’ve got an extra carb off a late 70’s international 40 in a box in the garage, it’s got the fuel return blocked so it may be a good fit for your rig. I can dig it out and get the date code off it. I think I’ve got a rebuild kit for it as well, we can go through it and even tune it on my 40 to get it ready if you are interested. Let me know. Chasing the linkage pedal and linkage parts may be a challenge, I don’t see them like I used to in the classifieds.

View attachment 3793286

That's a super generous offer! I was planning to get one of the City Racer carbs like @RevISK. I like the idea of getting it dialed in on my current engine. The main issue I think I'll have is the air cleaner to carb connection. I got a replacement lid from Beau for my current setup. I am not certain it'll be compatible with the new engine.

I have the parts for the throttle linkage and accelerator pedal from @bparker.

I'll put a Toyota order together for the PCV Valve bits and the Antifreeze.

 

[MatthewMcD]

When I installed my motor, I regret not replacing:
the clutch release fork assembly - 31204-60020
hub clutch release bearing - 31231-60031
These two parts are a bit worn down on my current set-up, I recall considerable play between the fork and the throw-out bearing hub. It is a greased surface, iirc., and I'd imagine that something akin to high-temp brake grease would be applied here.

I'd imagine that the front motor mounts are shot. In the rear, the bolts can take a beating, but the rubber 'hockey puck' bushings often need renewal. I used 1/2-20 grade-5, with holes drilled for cotter pins (after assembly), as the M13 (#5 on screw head) bolts were not available, and mine were looking worn.

Thanks, I'll watch for the wear on the clutch when I pull the engine and inspect everything. Since the engine in this truck is not original, they may have less wear than if they were original.

I have all the motor mounts as the ones I have looked at are pretty rotted. Again, since they have been "moved" when they swapped the engine, I might get lucky. But thank you for the replacement options.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Here is a few shots of my pcv

View attachment 3793517
Edit -

you can still get that clip that goes on the hose if missing.

I'll order the clip along with the valve and grommet. My current PCV valve is attached to the oil filler pipe and not "swapable".

 

[MatthewMcD]

For #1 - the valve (12204-51012) has a sub - 12204-61010 works too I just ordered a spare from Toyota for about $10 on Black Friday sale they had- grommet is correct - clip I mentioned is 90467-24038 - but dependent on what hose and preference.

For #3 - 90102-13009 &13010 are discontinued - you would only get used at this point.

I went OEM insulators as I am a fan of OEM rubber parts etc. I did take my motor mount bracket to powder coating and got them the same color as my valve cover and radiator bracket cuz people want to peak at the engine when in person. If you want it pretty, now is the time.

Whomever said add new throw-out bearing, second that. How are your clutch master and slave?

Yes, I popped for OEM engine mounts.

The throw-out bearing is included in my clutch kit from Cruiser Outfitters. Clutch master and slave are in good shape, I replaced them last year and have the stainless steel hose.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Transmission dowels. In addition to the disc centering tool for the clutch disc, you'll be way ahead of the game with a couple modified screws for aligning the transmission casting / transmission input shaft to the bell housing and pilot bearing. On a 2F bellhousing, I used M12x1.25 screws that were about 75mm before the head was removed, and a grinder created a bit of a taper to the end. I should have used a hacksaw or cut-off wheel to form a slot, so they can be backed-out with a screwdriver, after the two screws have been installed between the gearbox and the bellhousing.

View attachment 3793727

I love this! The clutch kit has the alignment tool, but I'll make up the pins. Thanks!

 

[65swb45]

Good talking with you Matt. See you next Thursday.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Good talking with you Matt. See you next Thursday.

Thanks Mark,

The earlier the better traffic-wise (I grew up in CA and have a terrible fear of Souther California traffic.) Let me know what time.
Also, if you need any photos beforehand. We start our westward trek on Sunday.

 

[65swb45]

Thanks Mark,

The earlier the better traffic-wise (I grew up in CA and have a terrible fear of Souther California traffic.) Let me know what time.
Also, if you need any photos beforehand. We start our westward trek on Sunday.

A pic of how the Rochester is currently mounted would be good.

If all remains as planned I should be able to meet you as early as 7 on Thursday.

 

[MatthewMcD]

A pic of how the Rochester is currently mounted would be good.

If all remains as planned I should be able to meet you as early as 7 on Thursday.

Thanks Mark! My dog's stomach will undoubtedly still be on Central Time, so up early is easy.

Here is the carb photo.

 

[MatthewMcD]

I just noticed that the Air Cleaner mount is held in place by two head bolts. Does this mean retorquing the whole head if I loosen these two to mount the Air Cleaner? Is that a problem for a new engine?

 

[Grayscale]

It is a '68 intake, '68 1-barrel carburetor mounting adapter. The 2F carb with throttle linkage doesn't fit with the '68 air cleaner, or at least with my '70-intake. The 2F intake manifold places the carburetor more away from the valve cover. The 2F carb needs a 2F air cleaner assembly.

Ideally, the head bolts for the air cleaner mount are not removed. The head bolt removal process is sequential. So, you have to remove them in order, and the routine is to not relieve all the torque at once, according to the manual, which forces you to redo every head bolt. If nothing else, running a tap thru the block before you re-torque a head bolt is imperative, if you observe the head bolt torque recommendations. So, figure out if you can get the carb matched to your air cleaner, and F-engine valve cover.

Mine is a '75, and aside from the FJ62 transfer shifter knob, pintle hitch and the 'Land Cruiser' stamped bezel, I basically want it to look like the truck that was purchased somewhere in the USA, correct to the year, although I've missed my goal.

 

[MatthewMcD]

It is a '68 intake, '68 1-barrel carburetor mounting adapter. The 2F carb with throttle linkage doesn't fit with the '68 air cleaner, or at least with my '70-intake. The 2F intake manifold places the carburetor more away from the valve cover. The 2F carb needs a 2F air cleaner assembly.

Ideally, the head bolts for the air cleaner mount are not removed. The head bolt removal process is sequential. So, you have to remove them in order, and the routine is to not relieve all the torque at once, according to the manual, which forces you to redo every head bolt. If nothing else, running a tap thru the block before you re-torque a head bolt is imperative, if you observe the head bolt torque recommendations. So, figure out if you can get the carb matched to your air cleaner, and F-engine valve cover.

Mine is a '75, and aside from the FJ62 transfer shifter knob, pintle hitch and the 'Land Cruiser' stamped bezel, I basically want it to look like the truck that was purchased somewhere in the USA, correct to the year, although I've missed my goal.

This would go onto the new engine. That's why I am concerned about undoing the work already "done" by the machine shop. I see on the new engine there are mount points for a different air cleaner that does not require me to loosen the head. But that means sourcing a new air cleaner...

 

[pb4ugo]

I would 1st confirm that your air cleaner is going to work for the application. Beyond that its your engine, you do what you want. I would just pull the 2 bolts and adapt the bracket and retorque to spec. Tighten the inner one 1st, then the outer. There is a tightening sequence. Generally a tightening pattern starts in the center and works in a circular pattern working outward or towards the end of the head. Looking at the sequence those bolt are #11 & #13 out of about 15 bolts.

 

[Green Bean]

When we first acquired our 1970 it didn’t have the factory air filter housing. Knowledgable folks told me that it was risky to remove the 2 head bolts for the reason that the head gasket integrity could be jeopardised. Knowing the risk, I proceeded and got lucky. I can see why a shop would not be willing to take it on because they don’t want to warranty a head gasket replacement.

 

[65swb45]

Thanks Mark! My dog's stomach will undoubtedly still be on Central Time, so up early is easy.

Here is the carb photo.
View attachment 3796826

A pic is worth a thousand words. I’ll pull an insulator and mounting studs for you as well. Retorquing the head bolts is not an issue before you fire the engine. I’ll go over the details with you when we meet.

 

[Skreddy]

It doesn’t make it right, but I’ve pulled those 2 bolts plenty of times with no issues. The bigger issue as mentioned, might be that that air cleaner setup doesn’t work at all with new carb/intake. But that’s why grinders, sawzall and welders were made. Anything fits with enough encouragement.

If you are using that cast 2F cover, make sure you have the right size hold down studs for it. Assuming you’re getting a complete engine so shouldn’t be an issue.

 

[65swb45]

Unfortunately, the ‘2F replacement carb’ herd mentality has overlooked the obvious: the can will work just fine with a pre-75 carb.