New Engine for a 1975 FJ40 Named "Sandy" (1 Viewer)

[MatthewMcD]

For those of you who have followed, supported, encouraged, and helped me to get this far with my truck, Thank You!

My wife has dubbed our truck "Sandy". It's a perfect name, for her, because of the color, for me, because every surface of the inside of the truck has a fine layer of sand, as if it was driven underwater through a silt filled wash and never rinsed out. I do plan to repaint it someday. We're partial to Spring Green, the current paint job is not original.

Sandy is a 1975 FJ40 Chassis, with an engine that is mostly F with a 2F head. With the help of @bparker at Safari Classics, I have sourced a '78 2F engine and had it rebuilt. I plan to use this thread to track my build progress. At this point I am working to source all the parts that I will need to swap the engine and "do what needs doing while I have the engine out". This includes:

• New Clutch, TO bearing, etc.
• Fix any transmission leaks, so far it appears to just be the drain plug gasket. (I replaced the rear transmission seal when I did Parking Brake last year.)
• Resurface the flywheel, replace all bolts
• New engine and transmission mounts
• New manifold gasket
• New drain plugs and gaskets

Questions and Part Number confirmation:

1. On the side of the engine there is a tube that I assume is for the PCV Valve. Can someone confirm this and tell me which parts I need to connect to the vacuum hose? I find 12204-51012 Valve and 90480-18180 Grommet, but I don't get how the connection works. (Photo below)
2. There is a plug missing in the head. Is there a standard plug, like (90345-54002) or should I use another temperature sensor? (Photo below)
3. For the new Engine Mounts do I need new bolts or only if they are damaged during removal? (90102-13010 and 90102-13009)
4. New Bell Housing bolts (91619-61235)
5. New Flywheel Bolts (90913-01016 original part #90913-01003)
6. Clutch cover to FW bolts (90119-08134)

In planning the swap, I am using Haynes page 20 as a general guide. Over the past year I have reconditioned/replaced nearly everything except the engine. I know that I'll be replacing the carb and probably the air cleaner. My challenge is that I'll be working in a friends shop that has the hoist, but not the tools. So, I plan to transport most of my tools to his shop for the removal/replacement. Then I plan to get it running with my old carb and air cleaner so I can drive it back to my shop for the rest of the fine tuning. Even if I trailer it back to my house, it has to be running well enough to drive it up my steep driveway into my garage.

I plan to run it on distilled water for a week or two to ensure I don't have any coolant leaks. (I have to replace the radiator drain valve.)

In addition, I'll be performing the last bit of maintenance on items I haven't touched since purchasing the truck:

• Rebuild the fuel pump
• Replace the carburetor
• Replace the throttle cable with a throttle linkage
• Replace the radiator drain valve
• Hopefully reuse my air cleaner, if not source an appropriate air cleaner.

Any word of wisdom before I dive in?

Here are the photos:
Is this for the PCV Valve?

Plug Missing from the head.

 

[Green Bean]

Subscribed.

 

[Skreddy]

I would suggest 2 things (second one may not matter).


First, I would try to run the new carb on your current engine before putting in the rebuilt or get a carb from a known good builder on here so you know it’s really close to dialed in. The reason: I’ve personally witnessed new engines get trashed on first startup by putting new parts on (like carbs) that weren’t properly setup. Leads to too much cranking for first start, running too lean, running too rich and washing out all the break in oil, etc. Same reason I’m not a huge fan of a new engine with new efi swap for first startup, though sometimes it’s unavoidable.

Second, if you don’t already have it, I would suggest using the “4 speed” clutch if you can. That is the diaphragm style, not the 3 finger. If you’re currently 3 finger style, it’d cost more to switch. The clutch and flywheel (and some other parts) are dependent on each other, so if you currently have the 3 finger “3 speed” clutch and stepped flywheel, you’d need more parts to swap to the diaphragm style. The clutch doesn’t care what trans is behind it, just that the related parts match. The 3 finger came in earlier 40’s with the 3 speed so has commonly been dubbed a 3 speed clutch.

Diaphragm style uses a little less pedal effort and is easier to install. 3 finger uses a heavier flywheel so harder to style if you do much wheeling.


Can’t wait to see it all unfold and I hope you dissect the current engine so we can see what’s going on in there!

 

[Grayscale]

The head on my '75 had two temperature sending units, one for the dash, the other for emissions control.

The grommet goes in the tube-to-baffle on the engine side cover. The PCV valve fits in the grommet. The PCV hose fits on the end of the PCV valve.

Is there a part number on your intake manifold, is it from '75? What kind of exhaust set-up will be reinstalled?

 

[MatthewMcD]

I would suggest 2 things (second one may not matter).


First, I would try to run the new carb on your current engine before putting in the rebuilt or get a carb from a known good builder on here so you know it’s really close to dialed in. The reason: I’ve personally witnessed new engines get trashed on first startup by putting new parts on (like carbs) that weren’t properly setup. Leads to too much cranking for first start, running too lean, running too rich and washing out all the break in oil, etc. Same reason I’m not a huge fan of a new engine with new efi swap for first startup, though sometimes it’s unavoidable.

Second, if you don’t already have it, I would suggest using the “4 speed” clutch if you can. That is the diaphragm style, not the 3 finger. If you’re currently 3 finger style, it’d cost more to switch. The clutch and flywheel (and some other parts) are dependent on each other, so if you currently have the 3 finger “3 speed” clutch and stepped flywheel, you’d need more parts to swap to the diaphragm style. The clutch doesn’t care what trans is behind it, just that the related parts match. The 3 finger came in earlier 40’s with the 3 speed so has commonly been dubbed a 3 speed clutch.

Diaphragm style uses a little less pedal effort and is easier to install. 3 finger uses a heavier flywheel so harder to style if you do much wheeling.


Can’t wait to see it all unfold and I hope you dissect the current engine so we can see what’s going on in there!

That's why I was thinking of running my old carb on the new engine. I know the carb well enough. It drives my current engine well enough. I'll swap out the carb and throttle linkage after a few hundred miles of break in.

As for the clutch, I have an AISIN Clutch kit from CruiserTeq. I have only seen the clutch through the inspection port, but it looks the same.

 

[MatthewMcD]

The head on my '75 had two temperature sending units, one for the dash, the other for emissions control.

The grommet goes in the tube-to-baffle on the engine side cover. The PCV valve fits in the grommet. The PCV hose fits on the end of the PCV valve.

Is there a part number on your intake manifold, is it from '75? What kind of exhaust set-up will be reinstalled?

Do you have a photo of the PCV connection?

I'll have a look and see about a part number, it's mated to a 2F head. I was planning on reusing the current exhaust setup. As far as I know, it's a standard exhaust manifold and simple single pipe muffler.

 

[Grayscale]

I don't have a pic of the PCV connection.

The manifolds will be best fastened with thread-chased manifold studs, or new manifold studs. When the cast iron exhaust manifold comes off, it often puts little imperfections on the studs, which throws-off the torque spec. Also, a new gasket for the manifolds, and some high-temperature anti-seize on the threads.

If you decide on running a 2F carburetor, but, don't want to deal with linkage, you might employ a throttle lever that is available for a Weber. The trick is working the cable-sheath within the limited reach provided by the 2F air cleaner. Often linkage is kinda worn-thin by this point - it is almost antique after all.

I'd run that Rochester carb on your new motor. However, I'd be more comfortable doing it with a temporary dash-mounted O2-sensor readout gauge and a bung for the O2 sensor in the exhaust down-pipe (as specified by Holley for Sniper). I have a similar set-up on my Datsun 4-cylinder, you can observe the changes that jets make (Weber 32/36). It didn't work on the FJ40 because of the header and low temperature, and a poor connection on a harness connector. But, jets for Rochester should be available, if you feel like dialing-it-in.

 

[65swb45]

I fall into the category of TLDR web surfers these days, so I don’t know your backstory. What I do know is that a Rochester 2Jet carb is a toilet bowl of a carburetor as soon as it comes off idle. And flushing gas into a freshly rebuilt engine before the rings have seated is a pretty sure fire way to wash the rings where they will never seat. Seen it almost a dozen times in the last 34 years. Which is a dozen times too many.

Really your best bet is to borrow a stock carb that you know runs well from another cruiserhead for your break-in, which should only take like 20 minutes. What you do after that depends on your budget. But putting an aftermarket carb on a fresh rebuild engine before break-in definitely falls under the category of FAFO.

 

[Skreddy]

That's why I was thinking of running my old carb on the new engine. I know the carb well enough. It drives my current engine well enough. I'll swap out the carb and throttle linkage after a few hundred miles of break in.

As for the clutch, I have an AISIN Clutch kit from CruiserTeq. I have only seen the clutch through the inspection port, but it looks the same.

I think you’d be better off running the new carb on the old engine to get it close first. The adapters needed for the current carb are all sources for potential vacuum leaks. The bigger reason to me though is I still don’t think that carb is big enough to support the 2F engine and you could end up doing some irreparable damage during break in.

 

[Grayscale]

I fall into the category of TLDR web surfers these days, so I don’t know your backstory. What I do know is that a Rochester 2Jet carb is a toilet bowl of a carburetor as soon as it comes off idle. And flushing gas into a freshly rebuilt engine before the rings have seated is a pretty sure fire way to wash the rings where they will never seat. Seen it almost a dozen times in the last 34 years. Which is a dozen times too many.

Really your best bet is to borrow a stock carb that you know runs well from another cruiserhead for your break-in, which should only take like 20 minutes. What you do after that depends on your budget. But putting an aftermarket carb on a fresh rebuild engine before break-in definitely falls under the category of FAFO.

Single barrel Rochester, for a similar displacement / rpm motor as the 2F.

 

[charliemeyer007]

What did it cost parts and labor to rebuild your engine?

I say better the carb you know that works. Way too much stuff that is new in the box these days isn't up to snuff. I'm thinking a good plan for breaking in that new engine is worth considering. Some non detergent oil (100,500) then after break in full synthetic 1000. You might want to consider an oil filtering system up grade too.

 

[RevISK]

I’ll get you a picture of my pCV setup tomorrow, or come by anytime to look at my setup as it’ll basically be what you’ll be running.

 

[fireflyr]

I swear the level of information is so good in this forum it never ceases to amaze me.

In my 20+ year journey with my 40 there is really only one regret I’ve had. My original F came with a Weber 32/36 which ran lean and smoked an engine. I built an F.5 which I ran for 15 years with the same carb (properly jetted) until it started running like crap so I replaced it with a fuel injection system. Was never really happy with that. All that time I had this thought running around in the back of my head; ‘just buy a carb from Mark’.
I have no doubt that the F.5 Transition engine would still be running if I had listened to that little voice. We all tend to waste money on cool stuff but suffer with poor running engines for whatever reason. If I ever pick up another Landcruiser the first thing I will do is buy one of Mark’s carburetors. It’s a known baseline that you can work from.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m loving the LS but that F.5 was pretty sweet. When it wanted to run right.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Everything is nice when it runs right. Its looking like $8000 to re-built a tractor motor. I just looked on craigslist and there was a 283 for $400 - I could use my Advance Adapter, LC 4 speed and get the part to use my 3sp transfer case for less that 8K

 

[fjc-man]

Here’s a little help with the PCV mounting at the side cover.

 

[77mustard40]

Matt here’s another PVC pic from my 77.

I’ve got an extra carb off a late 70’s international 40 in a box in the garage, it’s got the fuel return blocked so it may be a good fit for your rig. I can dig it out and get the date code off it. I think I’ve got a rebuild kit for it as well, we can go through it and even tune it on my 40 to get it ready if you are interested. Let me know. Chasing the linkage pedal and linkage parts may be a challenge, I don’t see them like I used to in the classifieds.

 

[RevISK]

That is awesome Kelly. I think Matt got all the linkage parts with his engine.
I don't know why am answering for him though.

 

[Grayscale]

When I installed my motor, I regret not replacing:
the clutch release fork assembly - 31204-60020
hub clutch release bearing - 31231-60031
These two parts are a bit worn down on my current set-up, I recall considerable play between the fork and the throw-out bearing hub. It is a greased surface, iirc., and I'd imagine that something akin to high-temp brake grease would be applied here.

I'd imagine that the front motor mounts are shot. In the rear, the bolts can take a beating, but the rubber 'hockey puck' bushings often need renewal. I used 1/2-20 grade-5, with holes drilled for cotter pins (after assembly), as the M13 (#5 on screw head) bolts were not available, and mine were looking worn.

 

[OlYellr]

I fall into the category of TLDR web surfers these days, so I don’t know your backstory. What I do know is that a Rochester 2Jet carb is a toilet bowl of a carburetor as soon as it comes off idle. And flushing gas into a freshly rebuilt engine before the rings have seated is a pretty sure fire way to wash the rings where they will never seat. Seen it almost a dozen times in the last 34 years. Which is a dozen times too many.

Really your best bet is to borrow a stock carb that you know runs well from another cruiserhead for your break-in, which should only take like 20 minutes. What you do after that depends on your budget. But putting an aftermarket carb on a fresh rebuild engine before break-in definitely falls under the category of FAFO.

Maybe you can get Ian's carb (@RevISK) for the first go - you might need to barter with beers or something. Not trying to volunteer you Ian - but having gone though this with my engine rebuild, totally agree.

 

[OlYellr]

Here is a few shots of my pcv

Edit -

you can still get that clip that goes on the hose if missing.