Builds New Alaskan FJ40 intro thread (3 Viewers)

[Aussie Alaskan]

Are you doing both seats? Tip, switch the foams for passenger side and drivers side so that the damaged/missing foam part would be on the inside of the driver/passenger seats respectively.

To answer your question, I have used some steel zip ties like this for some seat covers I put on when I didn't have any hog rings. They work pretty good actually and you can use some plyers to really pull on them as needed.

This is the response I was looking for! Great suggestion about switching the seats as I am indeed re-doing both front seats. Good to know that the heavy duty zip ties will work as well. I can custom adjust the tightness of my seat covers this way

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

And so begins the journey of re-upholstering the seats. I've never done anything like this before, but here we go...

First thing is to strip everything down.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Not sure what information can be unearthed from the markings on the seat back cushions, but the seat back cushions seemed to be in very good condition.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

My new cruiser corp seat covers fit very well over the original (patched) seat bottoms plus an additional 1.5" of foam. Nice and tight fit with no wrinkles. Using heavy duty zip ties worked perfect. I also installed heated seat pads while I had it all opened up and treated and painted the seat frame with por-15.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

After a few hours of work tying it all together and testing out the heated seat pads I think they turned out ok. I put a full 1.5" of foam into the seat backs to fill out the new seat covers as well as make the seats more comfortable, but still ended up with some wrinkles. I'm hopeful they will work themselves out in time and with use.
You guys have any ideas on where to mount the heated seat control? I've got the factory center console and it would be very convenient to mount it there facing up, but I'm leery to cut into and modify the console.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Since I'm 6'4" tall I also took the chance to raise the driver's seat by about 3/4" and moved it back by about 2.5" using some shallow uni-strut scrap. I had to remove a couple of the rivets holding the seat framework together, and then bolted the whole assembly back together with new hardware.

 

[airon23]

Since I'm 6'4" tall I also took the chance to raise the driver's seat by about 3/4" and moved it back by about 2.5" using some shallow uni-strut scrap. I had to remove a couple of the rivets holding the seat framework together, and then bolted the whole assembly back together with new hardware.

View attachment 3261447

View attachment 3261448

Those look great. I love the heated seats you added to it. As far as where to put the switch, what does the switch look like? What does your dash look like, do you have any empty holes you could utilize? Sometimes depending on POs and custom dashes, there are already holes you can use for it. If the switch is square or different than the holes, maybe you can find a different on/off switch that would work. Idk, but good job so far. keep it up.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Those look great. I love the heated seats you added to it. As far as where to put the switch, what does the switch look like? What does your dash look like, do you have any empty holes you could utilize? Sometimes depending on POs and custom dashes, there are already holes you can use for it. If the switch is square or different than the holes, maybe you can find a different on/off switch that would work. Idk, but good job so far. keep it up.

Thanks. My switch is rectangular and about the same size as a modern Toyota switch. About 1 3/4"" long and 3/4" wide roughly. My dash has not been hacked up besides the PO opened up the radio slot (I intend to return it to OEM size) and I'm hesitant to hack into anything myself and destroy the vintage look. My switch also controls both seats independently with separate roller type temp controls.

 

[airon23]

Thanks. My switch is rectangular and about the same size as a modern Toyota switch. About 1 3/4"" long and 3/4" wide roughly. My dash has not been hacked up besides the PO opened up the radio slot (I intend to return it to OEM size) and I'm hesitant to hack into anything myself and destroy the vintage look. My switch also controls both seats independently with separate roller type temp controls.

Do you have one of these? Maybe you could do something on that little metal plate. What does your dash pad look like? I've seen some people do stuff on that given that many of them are pretty beat up. If you get a chance shoot some pictures of the dash front area to give best ideas. I agree you don't want to cut up console or dash unnecessarily.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Do you have one of these? Maybe you could do something on that little metal plate. What does your dash pad look like? I've seen some people do stuff on that given that many of them are pretty beat up. If you get a chance shoot some pictures of the dash front area to give best ideas. I agree you don't want to cut up console or dash unnecessarily.
View attachment 3261643

This is my dash. I don't have one of those light displays unfortunately, but I could rig up something like it and bolt it in the same spot without making any permanent modifications. Hmmm, decisions decisions...

 

[River Bend]

Look into Redlinecruisers.com switch plate that replaces Ash tray.If you like the look of it that might do custom holes for your switched or could get the round switch that fit in drilled hole.

 

[12112321AKYLE]

I tried starting it today with ether and it still cranked and cranked with a few more rumps, but never caught and started. Then, because I suspected it was a temperature issue with the fuel, I took a small propane torch and held it on the intake manifold for a few minutes, and then pumped the pedal a few times and tried to start it. It almost started! It didn't, but it was as close as it had come all day even with the ether. Perhaps ether in conjunction with warming the intake manifold would have done it, but by then I had nearly killed the battery, so I put it on the charger and let it rest.

That kind of verified (at least in my mind) the theory that the fuel wasn't vaporizing in large enough quantities to start the engine and I quit trying after that. Didn't want to burn through a bottle of propane just to prove it. Here in a couple of weeks it should warm back up to around 0F and I'll try again. I started it the other day at 5 degrees above 0F and it started albeit without cranking and complaining for a while.

Hand cranking is an option

 

[12112321AKYLE]

Welcome, and nice work! My 40 resides in Arizona, but my wife and I live in Fairbanks part of the year. Indeed there are not many up here. On my bicycle route around Farmer's Loop road there's a house with several 40s in residence; I need to stop and knock on the door sometime.

I've met him, his name is Paul! His "Sherpa" 40 is super nice.

 

[12112321AKYLE]

As the middle-man between the previous owner and you, I am happy to see this project in the right hands! It's important to stay occupied up here in the dark months, and working on a Land Cruiser is the perfect activity for that! I am impressed with your drive and how far you have come with this in just a few months, looking forward to cruising with you when you are ready to! All of us 40 drivers in AK should meet up and teach those Jeeps who is king of the trails!

Here are a few pictures of this 40 in the condition I found it in.. a true barn find!

before I passed it onto you:

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

As the middle-man between the previous owner and you, I am happy to see this project in the right hands! It's important to stay occupied up here in the dark months, and working on a Land Cruiser is the perfect activity for that! I am impressed with your drive and how far you have come with this in just a few months, looking forward to cruising with you when you are ready to! All of us 40 drivers in AK should meet up and teach those Jeeps who is king of the trails!

Here are a few pictures of this 40 in the condition I found it in.. a true barn find!View attachment 3263310View attachment 3263311 before I passed it onto you: View attachment 3263312View attachment 3263309
View attachment 3263307

Thanks Kyle. It's been quite a journey thus far. This summer we will definitely have to cruise around when it's ready.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Bondo. Only my 2nd time using the stuff and last time I didn't get the best finish on a motorcycle gas tank I worked a dent out of. Hoping this time is better from previous lessons learned. I'm using Bondo glass (fiberglass strand impregnated) up next to the bare steel with some regular Bondo filler on top where needed. Then a few coats of filler/primer and lots of sanding between. So far so good with a skim coat over most of my weld repairs.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Another thing I got installed today was the muffler. Mounting it where it would have been from the factory on a 77 FJ40. The muffler I'm using is a flow master 50 series. Got it new locally for $50 and from the videos I found online it's going to have a good tone to it. Welded a mounting bracket to it and it's a nice solid fit bolted to the frame. Also took the time to clean up my garage a bit today. Boy does that dust build up when grinding and sanding!

 

[h82crash]

Bondo. Only my 2nd time using the stuff and last time I didn't get the best finish on a motorcycle gas tank I worked a dent out of. Hoping this time is better from previous lessons learned. I'm using Bondo glass (fiberglass strand impregnated) up next to the bare steel with some regular Bondo filler on top where needed. Then a few coats of filler/primer and lots of sanding between. So far so good with a skim coat over most of my weld repairs.

View attachment 3264273

View attachment 3264274

View attachment 3264275

View attachment 3264276

View attachment 3264277

Looks like you're getting there. Just takes practice. Hammer/dolly as best as you can before filler. Definitely apply to clean, bare, scuffed metal and strip away a larger area of paint than you think you need. If you have a bunch more to do, or of you are running low/out of Bondo, there are much better fillers available than Bondo. Even from the same company. Evercoat Rage Gold or 3M Platinum Plus are great products. Easier to sand and do not clog your sandpaper as much. Summit Racing seems to have the best prices.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Looks like you're getting there. Just takes practice. Hammer/dolly as best as you can before filler. Definitely apply to clean, bare, scuffed metal and strip away a larger area of paint than you think you need. If you have a bunch more to do, or of you are running low/out of Bondo, there are much better fillers available than Bondo. Even from the same company. Evercoat Rage Gold or 3M Platinum Plus are great products. Easier to sand and do not clog your sandpaper as much. Summit Racing seems to have the best prices.

Thanks for the input. I'm mostly done with the filler for now, with mostly just spray filler still needed. I've also got a bunch of spots (mostly towards the front) where the paint was chipped and a bit of rust had formed. I used a sanding disk to remove the paint primer and rust in these spots, but now there would be noticeable low spots if I sprayed new paint over everything. I'm assuming I can just use some spray filler to build up these areas before applying my two part epoxy primer and finish paint?

 

[h82crash]

Thanks for the input. I'm mostly done with the filler for now, with mostly just spray filler still needed. I've also got a bunch of spots (mostly towards the front) where the paint was chipped and a bit of rust had formed. I used a sanding disk to remove the paint primer and rust in these spots, but now there would be noticeable low spots if I sprayed new paint over everything. I'm assuming I can just use some spray filler to build up these areas before applying my two part epoxy primer and finish paint?

Yes, you can use a primer/surfacer. You're supposed to either etch, etch primer, or epoxy primer bare metal first. Then primer surfacer. Spray a few coats on the low spots, then block sand to level. Then a couple coats over the whole area and block sand again. I don't know how far you're taking this. If a show car finish is what you are looking for, it is a lot of this. Even if it is not, you want the surface as perfect as possible, even bad paint will show flaws in the substrate. Look up color sanding and guide coat. These are techniques to getting it leveled out. Evercoat Feather Fill is an example of 2K primer surfacer. Look at the tech sheets and it will explain how to prep and apply.
BTW, over the past few years the cost of these materials have skyrocketed.