- Thread starter
- #21
Will be selling my old rims if anyone is interested make me an offer.
New 84' FJ60 Project
- Thread starter Breitz6989
- Start date
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RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
Nice looking Rig! i have one the same color!
clean interior as well.
clean interior as well.
- Thread starter
- #23
Underside is being coated and rebuilt tranny is going in.
Parts have been arriving daily from the list.
Garmin Glo
Ipad Mini Mount from the Joy Factory
TLCA Stickers
Leather Steering wheel
hood Bump Stop replacements
9500 LB Winch for the ARB
BFG 255/85/16 on Level 8 trackers
Parts have been arriving daily from the list.
- Thread starter
- #24
Update:
Picking the truck up today from the mechanic and plan to have a very long weekend of installation of lift kit tires snorkel arb bumper winch etc will post as i go. The bumper came in monday and i have began mounting the winch will post pictures soon.
Picking the truck up today from the mechanic and plan to have a very long weekend of installation of lift kit tires snorkel arb bumper winch etc will post as i go. The bumper came in monday and i have began mounting the winch will post pictures soon.
- Thread starter
- #25
So unfortunately the freight truck decided to take the day off today and my OME will be here Monday. Will have to wait another weekend to swap the suspension luckily plenty else to do. My truck came with 2" taller shackles so I went ahead and mounted to new tires and what a difference. Have the ARB ready to go tomorrow, had to flip the winch to mount forward facing.
- Thread starter
- #26
Made a lot of progress today ARB bumper went on with the 9500 lbs winch and 7" LED bars. Went to bars as the rounds blocked to much air.
Tackled the Aussie snorkel install stencil was spot on; only thing is the 3rd bolt hole is not needed as when I punched through I hit thick metal that was impossible to get a wrench on to eve tighten so I left it out. Riveted the support bracket on to the windshield frame. Quite happy with the look and install.
Installed new 70 series mirror huge upgrade and difference.
Here are a few photos let me know if anyone needs elaboration on things.
Tackled the Aussie snorkel install stencil was spot on; only thing is the 3rd bolt hole is not needed as when I punched through I hit thick metal that was impossible to get a wrench on to eve tighten so I left it out. Riveted the support bracket on to the windshield frame. Quite happy with the look and install.
Installed new 70 series mirror huge upgrade and difference.
Here are a few photos let me know if anyone needs elaboration on things.
- Thread starter
- #27
Spent the weekend cleaning her up used some color correction wax and buffer. Cleaned out the inside and took some photos of the tuffy and leather steering wheel install.
- Thread starter
- #28
Project Update:
Engine has been making some noise, thought it was the Fan Clutch so replaced that first it was not it. Next suspect was the smog pump, got that out and spinning it it was clear that the carbon shoe was loose or broken. I got the pump apart and will GUT it following fj40jim recommendations from this thread.
Gutting a smog pump w/ pictures
Couple of questions for your guys (@OTRAMM @FJ40Jim @roadstr6 )
What can I remove smog system wise when I get the pump back in place? I would prefer to do as much as i can with removing the manifold welding etc.
Will post some gut pictures tomorrow. Did not take to many pictures getting the pump out but would be happy to give my suggestions as I was able to get it out without removing fan shroud, grill, radiator, etc.
Engine has been making some noise, thought it was the Fan Clutch so replaced that first it was not it. Next suspect was the smog pump, got that out and spinning it it was clear that the carbon shoe was loose or broken. I got the pump apart and will GUT it following fj40jim recommendations from this thread.
Gutting a smog pump w/ pictures
Couple of questions for your guys (@OTRAMM @FJ40Jim @roadstr6 )
What can I remove smog system wise when I get the pump back in place? I would prefer to do as much as i can with removing the manifold welding etc.
Will post some gut pictures tomorrow. Did not take to many pictures getting the pump out but would be happy to give my suggestions as I was able to get it out without removing fan shroud, grill, radiator, etc.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #29
Also while I have it out and the extra room, belts off etc anything is should consider doing while I am at it. I am already planning to replace the belts.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Split the fan shroud while you are at it.
CaptClose
SILVER Star
You can desmog without any welding and you shouldn't have to remove the manifold, if you're sure that you have no leaks. However, I would remove it and put a new gasket on, since you'll be there anyway.
There's a desmog PDF manual that someone made and posted to the forum somewhere. It is very good and I recommend that you find it, print it out and use it.
FJ40Jim sells a kit containing plugs, EGR blockoff plate and a idler pulley (if you want to completely remove the pump). I can't remember if his kit contains a PCV blockoff plate or not, but you can get one from Man-a-fre that's really good. This will eliminate any welding required. Otherwise, you'll have to pinch off and weld the EGR pipe coming off the intake manifold.
Doing it "by the manual" still requires a fair amount of vacuum hose. You may want to order more hose from the vendor of your choice. I think 25 feet of 3mm and 10 feet of 5mm hose should do.
You'll want/need to test your distributor side VCV and replace it if necessary. If you keep your fuel EVAP in play, you'll want to test that VCV as well. Instructions are simple and located in the factory emissions manual. You'll need a vacuum pump to test the VCV's.
I also recommend that you rebuild or better yet (have Jim rebuild and tune) your carb. Optionally, recurve your dizzy (although, I didn't).
You'll be happy with the results. Good luck brother!
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
@CaptClose is correct on all aspects. And JimC is the one that helped build the desmog manual (see links in my sig), I would definitely recommend picking up his full kit, try and remove all components without molesting them so you can sell them to another MUD Member and then look at places like Boostcontroller.com for your vacuum line.. The measurements are in the desmog manual for what you need and for the larger (5mm) you can go with 6mm and it should be fine, many of us have. Those are IDs as well.
- Thread starter
- #33
@CaptClose @gregnash Thanks for all the info guys. My carb was rebuilt by Jim about a year ago still running great. As far as i can tell i dont have any manifold exhaust leaks but will definetly consider replacing while in there. Have reach out to JimC for a kit of remaining parts and will attempt the desmog in coming weeks, should take 8-10 hours is my guess.
CaptClose
SILVER Star
Awesome news about your carb... you're way ahead of the game now. Once you have all the parts, it should go pretty quick. Check your vacuum with a gauge now, to confirm that you have no leaks and establish a starting point baseline, if all looks good, then don't worry about the manifold gasket for now. Just snug up all the bolts to spec. Once you have all the spaghetti out of the way, the manifold will be easy enough to get to later if you need to replace that gasket down the road.
In the meantime, do this:
1. Order the full kit from Jim
2. Order the replacement vacuum lines
3. Download and print the emissions FSM and the Desmog manual mentioned above
3. Test both VCV's, your top BVSV, and your HAC and then source replacements if necessary
Optionally:
1. Order a new OEM air filter. You're gonna pull the air cleaner off anyway (to access the back of the carb), you might as well clean it out and put a new air filter in there.
2. Since the air cleaner is coming off, maybe consider a valve adjustment, if it's overdue...
If you have questions, PM me for my mobile... I took lots of pics during my recent desmog that might help.
Good luck
- Thread starter
- #35
@CaptClose
After gutting putting the pump back together. Its not spinning "freely" in my hand still has some resistance to it, did i miss something or is it bent maybe?
After gutting putting the pump back together. Its not spinning "freely" in my hand still has some resistance to it, did i miss something or is it bent maybe?
CaptClose
SILVER Star
Hard to say brother. To be honest, my pump was still good so I didn't gut it. I just ordered the idler pulley to replace it.
Someone with first hand experience will chime in soon though. Sorry I couldn't be more help here.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
I agree with @CaptClose that it is just easier to get the pulley and be done with it. I tried gutting my pump and it worked fine initially but seized within something like 30 minutes after starting the truck back up. Just have piece of mind that it was done "properly" by using the pulley unless you are trying to mock-up a fake emissions system (heard of some guys that do this). If there is resistance that you can feel that means that it will fail in fairly short order. The extra money spent on the pulley is well worth it, mine has operated flawlessly for 3yrs now.
With regards to the manifold gasket, use carb cleaner and spray around the manifold/head interface and listen for an increase in idle. This will indicate a leak at that area. Also do around the base of the carb as well. If you hear no leaks then definitely leave it alone.
And also go for the valve adjustment if you have recently. I know that I have read on here somewhere that recommendation is to do it about once yearly to keep things running in top order.
- Thread starter
- #38
Update...
@gregnash @CaptClose
Not sure if anyone is following this haha
The gutted smog pump wasnt working out went with the Jim C pulley instead, ran that awhile but engine still lacking and vacuum leaks so i am not mid desmog. I am going to redo manifold gasket as well, going through removing and the manual for desmog i was missing ALOT of s*** valve wise and previous owner was just straight piping lines past broken valves. AKA why i was running like hell.
Parts update:
JimC Pulley and desmog kit
Saginaw PS conversion (Done now redoing with desmog)
OME Heavy full suspension kit has arrived thats going in when the engine is running again.
All new brakes calipers drums pads knuckles parts are in and will be doing with the lift kit.
Will post pictures as i go along.
*note: I did the Saginaw conversion without a hitch however decided to get to it and not read through the instructions. I used a press to press the pulley on and damaged the shaft internally, the result after about 500 miles the PS pump began squealing regularly under load and turn with my larger tires. So i am replacing it and doing correctly this time.
@gregnash @CaptClose
Not sure if anyone is following this haha
The gutted smog pump wasnt working out went with the Jim C pulley instead, ran that awhile but engine still lacking and vacuum leaks so i am not mid desmog. I am going to redo manifold gasket as well, going through removing and the manual for desmog i was missing ALOT of s*** valve wise and previous owner was just straight piping lines past broken valves. AKA why i was running like hell.
Parts update:
JimC Pulley and desmog kit
Saginaw PS conversion (Done now redoing with desmog)
OME Heavy full suspension kit has arrived thats going in when the engine is running again.
All new brakes calipers drums pads knuckles parts are in and will be doing with the lift kit.
Will post pictures as i go along.
*note: I did the Saginaw conversion without a hitch however decided to get to it and not read through the instructions. I used a press to press the pulley on and damaged the shaft internally, the result after about 500 miles the PS pump began squealing regularly under load and turn with my larger tires. So i am replacing it and doing correctly this time.
CaptClose
SILVER Star
Looks good man. Still gotta little bit of work to do yet. Once you remove the manifolds, you'll be able to reach the egr cooler easier and pull it out. You'll need to source a few VCV, BVSV, HAC valves, along with some new vacuum hose to finish the desmog (per the manual anyway). Check the parting out section for those. Also, Manafre sells a nice EGR plate blockoff with an integrated PCV port. It's pretty slick and gives a more polished look to the manifolds.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Yup looks like you are getting there nicely. Rebuild the carb while it is off if it hasnt been done in a while. Take LOTS AND LOTS of pictures of disassembly and reassembly. Man-a-Fre also sells a nice little J-pipe block off plate that you should get as well unless you still have the EGR cooler thing down low that has the J-pipe that attaches to the back off the manifold.
When reattaching the manifold, the gasket goes ONE WAY. There is an indicator arrow on it that indicates which direction, don't ask me how I know.
Also since you will have the manifold off you will want to drop the section of exhaust pipe and properly take care of the air tube that goes from inside the engine bay to the exhaust pipe just before the cat.
When reattaching the manifold, the gasket goes ONE WAY. There is an indicator arrow on it that indicates which direction, don't ask me how I know.
Also since you will have the manifold off you will want to drop the section of exhaust pipe and properly take care of the air tube that goes from inside the engine bay to the exhaust pipe just before the cat.
