missing something?
Need help to fix my FZJ 80 (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Karalina
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- carburetor fzj80 repair
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No. That's an OEM capped pipe.
Yeah unfortunately I would think very few of us will be able to help since we have never seen the 1FZ-F, but I would start with your normal trouble shooting. Starting with vacuum leaks, start looking at all of the hoses. I see some electrical tape on the valve cover hoses so it isn't unreasonable to think it could be leaking other places.
Good luck!!
Good luck!!
I would find a vacuum source low on the carby and see what you are running at idle (18-20 should be good) . This will also tell yah alot of info if you look up a vacuum reading chart..such as if your running lean, timing is off or what not.
I also would check your points and rotor as well as confirm you have the right diaphragm installed .
The fact that u have problems @ cruising speed and especially @ deceleration tells me a vacuum issue and a timing issue ,running concurrent, is amiss--
I would also pull apart that electrical tape on yer dizzy and see if someone connected those wires with bubblegum.
I also would check your points and rotor as well as confirm you have the right diaphragm installed .
The fact that u have problems @ cruising speed and especially @ deceleration tells me a vacuum issue and a timing issue ,running concurrent, is amiss--
I would also pull apart that electrical tape on yer dizzy and see if someone connected those wires with bubblegum.
I know that you are the king of parts, and I have bought many from you, but you may want to stick with EFI. carburetor diaphragm - Google Search
Thats cap points and distributor vacuum advance diaphram..pertaining to my post above. Good luck
Ok. I'll take your word for it. Thank you.
I would start by checking fuel pressure. Check it before and after the fuel filter.
- Thread starter
- #29
Again, thanks a lot for your replys!! Especially for the suggestions of @artech, @BILT4ME, @Mountainpassing and @White Stripe, that really helps me to get the work started (or continued).
@beno and @BILT4ME As for the confusion of engine models and benzin preparation: As said above, orginally the car came with an FZ-FE engine and, hence, fuel injection. This was replaced by a FZ-F engine, which runs with a carburator. And I share the suspicion that the fundamental problem may lie here, as probably not all necessary components have been adjusted properly to a FZ-F engine/carburator setup.
I'm aware that this car is far from anything you guys usually work with - but these are the realities here, so I gotta work with what ever is possible to keep it running for another year or two.
@beno and @BILT4ME As for the confusion of engine models and benzin preparation: As said above, orginally the car came with an FZ-FE engine and, hence, fuel injection. This was replaced by a FZ-F engine, which runs with a carburator. And I share the suspicion that the fundamental problem may lie here, as probably not all necessary components have been adjusted properly to a FZ-F engine/carburator setup.
I'm aware that this car is far from anything you guys usually work with - but these are the realities here, so I gotta work with what ever is possible to keep it running for another year or two.
Ok, for clarification. You drive around and have no issues until your engine is warmed up, then you have idle and running issues, stuttering at speed and eventually a flooded carburetor? Your vehicle was originally a 1FZ-FE from the factory but was converted to a 1FZ-F carbureted engine? Now comes the question for you. I can see you're runnning a mechanical/ jack shaft driven fuel pump and it's shiny and new looking. Does it still have the electric fuel pump in the fuel tank? If so then that could be your issue. The electric fuel pump is going to overpower the mechanical unit in delivery rate and flood your carburetor. If the pump is present and not plugged in, your mechanical pump could to pull fuel and receiving large quantities all at once versus a steady flow rate. I would start by figuring out the in tank pump situation. If it's there, remove the electric punp and replace it with a piece of copper or aluminum tubing and the original filter sock and see if things change. If your in tank electric pump is already removed and no longer an issue, you may need a carburetor rebuild. You may have clogged Venturi's or bad float needle valve or even a bad float. Honestly, after checking the fuel pump situation you may want to find a factory service manual that outlines proper carburetor adjustment and timing for a carbureted engine. Timing for a carbureted engine will be a different specification than that of a fuel injected engine most of the time. Check back afterwards and let us know how things are going.
I agree with @LandCruisinMy93 , great point about the in tank pump. Another thing that stands out is the wiring at the distributor. The entire 1fz-fe harness should have been swapped out, as well as the ecu. If not, the ecu may be trying to pull timing because it is not getting necessary inputs. At the very least, inspect all connections that have been cobbled together. Otherwise, it is a fuel issue. If you have to hold the pedal to the floor to restart- you have too much fuel. If you have to pump the pedal to restart-too little fuel. Good luck!
Oh I meant the AC belt was missing, so it is still missing a belt
, I did not realize he had a cobbled rig, and if you need a pick up tube the proper length is 5 3/16 " I have made few for the diesel swap, also just put an inline, fuel filter, trying to get the stock sock filter to work is a huge task, and it probably not function very well or at all
This is what I was thinking when I requested more info from others. I THINK the electric in-tank pump has two speeds and once it is warmed up it changes speeds.
- Thread starter
- #34
Update #1
I just picked up my car from the 8th mechanic with whom I tried my luck. And, surprisingly, things improved in a way. With linited time at hand, he said he rather superficially checked and cleaned some things (air filter, petrol pump and carburator) and corrected some adjustments of/related to the carburator. He complained that this car has seen too many mechanics ...
I should come back in a couple of days, he then would dismount the entire carburator and check each of its components. He will also work on the wiring. I asked him about the electric in-tank pump which he said had been removed before. In sum, when I return my car in a couple of days, I will ask him to work through the suggestions some of you have made - thanks a lot for these!
For the time being, the result is that the car runs more smoothly and does not die anymore - except for the situation when I slow down to the point where I have to shift into the 1st gear, then the rpm still drop sharply and the engine would die. So, whenever I had to do that I let the engine run idle and operated the brake pedal and throttle simultaneously to avoid that the car turns off. Not very comfortable to drive, but it works. Once I accelerate again, the engine would run smoothly and not die anymore as before.
I keep you posted.
I just picked up my car from the 8th mechanic with whom I tried my luck. And, surprisingly, things improved in a way. With linited time at hand, he said he rather superficially checked and cleaned some things (air filter, petrol pump and carburator) and corrected some adjustments of/related to the carburator. He complained that this car has seen too many mechanics ...
I should come back in a couple of days, he then would dismount the entire carburator and check each of its components. He will also work on the wiring. I asked him about the electric in-tank pump which he said had been removed before. In sum, when I return my car in a couple of days, I will ask him to work through the suggestions some of you have made - thanks a lot for these!
For the time being, the result is that the car runs more smoothly and does not die anymore - except for the situation when I slow down to the point where I have to shift into the 1st gear, then the rpm still drop sharply and the engine would die. So, whenever I had to do that I let the engine run idle and operated the brake pedal and throttle simultaneously to avoid that the car turns off. Not very comfortable to drive, but it works. Once I accelerate again, the engine would run smoothly and not die anymore as before.
I keep you posted.
Nice, like i say a vacuum gauge is the first thing to grab when you run a carb. There are charts thatll tell you literally dozens of diagnosis just by what the needle is doing and it costs absolutely nothing-
Also, it is impossible to time the motor correctly if the carb isnt tuned and it is also impossible to tune the carb if the motor isnt timed correctly. It is a back and forth procedure when done right, just gotta make sure the vacuum doesnt get too high-- good luck
Just wanted to add something before i head out for a weekend camping trip(tues, wed off
).
It sounds like your mechanic is on the right track.
A: check vacuum gauge and record readings in tandem with an in engine rpm gauge
B: Pull off carb and rebuild or reset adjustment screws
C: Pull out dizzy and verify working components (special attention to vacuum advance diaphragm which people are known to "tune")
D: Pull spark plugs and rotate motor to VERIFY top dead center before replacing dizzy
E: Put carb back on and record vacuum readings (using ruff timing)to see where to go from there .
F: Fine tune back and forth
G: Go where the needle tells you if above didnt solve the problem
You can tear apart your entire vehicle only after these two components are verified. Nothing you may find elsewhere means anything unless the carb and dizzy are squared away first. Remember a motor is just an extremely large air pump...FWIW
).It sounds like your mechanic is on the right track.
A: check vacuum gauge and record readings in tandem with an in engine rpm gauge
B: Pull off carb and rebuild or reset adjustment screws
C: Pull out dizzy and verify working components (special attention to vacuum advance diaphragm which people are known to "tune")
D: Pull spark plugs and rotate motor to VERIFY top dead center before replacing dizzy
E: Put carb back on and record vacuum readings (using ruff timing)to see where to go from there .
F: Fine tune back and forth
G: Go where the needle tells you if above didnt solve the problem
You can tear apart your entire vehicle only after these two components are verified. Nothing you may find elsewhere means anything unless the carb and dizzy are squared away first. Remember a motor is just an extremely large air pump...FWIW
